Grrr... H&R Install
#1
Grrr... H&R Install
Why am I so bad at working on cars? I'm usually very mechanically and electronically inclined, but there's something about my car that just seems to make me horrible at working on it.
I started installing my springs at 8, figuring I'd definitely be done by 12. I started with the rear (first mistake) and things went very smoothly, in about an hour the wheels were already back on the ground. I started the passenger side front and nearly 2 1/2 hours later finished it. The first problem I had was the caliper bolts, then the bottom sway bar nut was stuck, then probably the worst part of the whole install, the COTTER PINS. I ****ing hate those things, they are the biggest PITA to get in and out. I mangled it to death getting it out, thinking the worst was over, only to discover that the damn tie rod has to be beaten with a hammer for 10 minutes to come out. Then I ended up stripping the ABS sensor bolt and had to creatively make enough slack to get the A arm to drop low enough to get the spring out. The spring was also difficult to get out, a lot harder than in the rear. I ended looping a rope around one of the bottom coils and pulling up and out while my friend (big help) pushed down on the strut. By now it is almost 12 and my friend leaves, so I'm on my own to do the driver's side. Everything went well on that side (even the cotter pin) but I realized it was too late to be beating on the tie rod thing with a hammer. So I put the front wheels back on and pulled it back into the garage. Damnit!
CLIFF NOTES: #1 is it ok if my car is sitting right now with 3 SS springs and 1 stock spring? (It'll only be for about 10 hrs.)
#2 How important are the cotterpins on the bolts that connect the tie rod to the A arm? Because I pretty severly ****ed both of them up.
Sorry to make that a novel, didn't realize until I was done how long it was.
I started installing my springs at 8, figuring I'd definitely be done by 12. I started with the rear (first mistake) and things went very smoothly, in about an hour the wheels were already back on the ground. I started the passenger side front and nearly 2 1/2 hours later finished it. The first problem I had was the caliper bolts, then the bottom sway bar nut was stuck, then probably the worst part of the whole install, the COTTER PINS. I ****ing hate those things, they are the biggest PITA to get in and out. I mangled it to death getting it out, thinking the worst was over, only to discover that the damn tie rod has to be beaten with a hammer for 10 minutes to come out. Then I ended up stripping the ABS sensor bolt and had to creatively make enough slack to get the A arm to drop low enough to get the spring out. The spring was also difficult to get out, a lot harder than in the rear. I ended looping a rope around one of the bottom coils and pulling up and out while my friend (big help) pushed down on the strut. By now it is almost 12 and my friend leaves, so I'm on my own to do the driver's side. Everything went well on that side (even the cotter pin) but I realized it was too late to be beating on the tie rod thing with a hammer. So I put the front wheels back on and pulled it back into the garage. Damnit!
CLIFF NOTES: #1 is it ok if my car is sitting right now with 3 SS springs and 1 stock spring? (It'll only be for about 10 hrs.)
#2 How important are the cotterpins on the bolts that connect the tie rod to the A arm? Because I pretty severly ****ed both of them up.
Sorry to make that a novel, didn't realize until I was done how long it was.
#2
wow...u make it sound so damn difficult
what i did to do the fronts was...jack up car on that side, preload the suspension, unbolt strut, unbolt caliper bolts (hardest part), and unbolt the top bolt of the sway bar (lol you dont need to unbolt the bottom one!), i didnt even need to take the abs out...it had enough slack for me to put the spring in
and what the hell are cotterpins and tie rod...lol i didnt need to touch them considering i dont know what those are!
what i did to do the fronts was...jack up car on that side, preload the suspension, unbolt strut, unbolt caliper bolts (hardest part), and unbolt the top bolt of the sway bar (lol you dont need to unbolt the bottom one!), i didnt even need to take the abs out...it had enough slack for me to put the spring in
and what the hell are cotterpins and tie rod...lol i didnt need to touch them considering i dont know what those are!
#3
Originally Posted by TClark22
wow...u make it sound so damn difficult
what i did to do the fronts was...jack up car on that side, preload the suspension, unbolt strut, unbolt caliper bolts (hardest part), and unbolt the top bolt of the sway bar (lol you dont need to unbolt the bottom one!), i didnt even need to take the abs out...it had enough slack for me to put the spring in
and what the hell are cotterpins and tie rod...lol i didnt need to touch them considering i dont know what those are!
what i did to do the fronts was...jack up car on that side, preload the suspension, unbolt strut, unbolt caliper bolts (hardest part), and unbolt the top bolt of the sway bar (lol you dont need to unbolt the bottom one!), i didnt even need to take the abs out...it had enough slack for me to put the spring in
and what the hell are cotterpins and tie rod...lol i didnt need to touch them considering i dont know what those are!
#5
Actually it does,
"* Using needle nose pliers, remove the cotter pin near the tie rod end. Using a 18mm deep socket, remove the crown nut near the tie rod end. Remove the tie rod end from the spindle by hammering the spindle, not the actual tie rod. Keep hammering it until the tie rod falls out."
CCM, you should of gotten in contact with me. We both live in NOVA. http://www.dndgarage.net/springinstall.htm
If you need help with any future installs then let me know. BTW, you should be able to pick up cotter pins at Advance Auto.
"* Using needle nose pliers, remove the cotter pin near the tie rod end. Using a 18mm deep socket, remove the crown nut near the tie rod end. Remove the tie rod end from the spindle by hammering the spindle, not the actual tie rod. Keep hammering it until the tie rod falls out."
CCM, you should of gotten in contact with me. We both live in NOVA. http://www.dndgarage.net/springinstall.htm
If you need help with any future installs then let me know. BTW, you should be able to pick up cotter pins at Advance Auto.
#6
crap man, yeah you hammer the spindle not the actual tie rod, it'll drop out. you didn't reuse the same cotter pins did you? you got new ones right? They are important, those castle nuts are not really TQ'd down, when the hole and castle nut line up, you put the cotter pin in and it pretty much holds it in place, but never reuse them even if they look good. If you look where the k member bolts in, the 2 nuts behind the strut, to the left, you see where your abs line has slack there, you should have pulled it out there, and you would have had alot of slack for your abs line and wouldn't have to unbolt your abs line, it's a pain anyways.
Sitting there till you finish won't hurt nothing.
Sitting there till you finish won't hurt nothing.
#7
Well I was able to finish it this morning before I went to work, and all in all I'm satisfied. The driver's side went much more smoothly than the passenger's side and it is definitely LOW. I'll try to get some pics up soon, but right now it's almost like the back is a little higher than the front. It takes some getting used to but I'm pretty sure I like it. But wouldn't you know it, the damn springs squeak like crazy. Would spraying the isolators with WD-40 help?
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
hmmm i didn't do any of that when i changed my springs, it took me less then an hour to swap my springs, about 20 minutes each in the front and 10 minutes to do the rear. I got spring clamps and squeezed them really tight and just unscrewed the struts from the top and took the bolt off the A arm and they came right off.
My springs squeaked the first week but after they settled in they didn't, i dont know about spraying wd-40 on the isolators tho.
My springs squeaked the first week but after they settled in they didn't, i dont know about spraying wd-40 on the isolators tho.
#13
Alright, after a few days with the new springs I gotta say I LOVE IT! I was pretty skeptical when I first put them on and thought I had made a horrible descision, but they definitely grew on me! Anyway, the one thing that still bothers me is that the rear sits higher than the front. On the front I can fit barely 3 fingers between the top of the tire and the fender but in the on the back I can easily fit 4, maybe 5, so I was thinking of removing either the top or bottom isolators back there. Which would you recommend I remove?
#15
Originally Posted by zigzagg321
looks good the way it is IMO. I wish I could get away with that much drop...I live in the city and roads are BAD. large speed humps everywhere.
#17
Originally Posted by zigzagg321
looks good the way it is IMO. I wish I could get away with that much drop...I live in the city and roads are BAD. large speed humps everywhere.
[EDIT] i was thinking about TClark22's car when I typed that.
[EDIT] i was thinking about TClark22's car when I typed that.
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by TClark22
yea...i live in a town that is heavily populated...and i know the streets like the back of my hand...so i avoid the bumps!
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