cool.

 

Here's a link to the piston, rods and rings on ebay for $839.99

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-4-5...mZ170002914279

How's it going R3dn3ck? I sold my Stang back in December but I have an 87 Notchback now with a 4cyl. and trying to decide if i still want to build a 5.4.

 

twin... you're back. Welcome. Yes you still want to build a 5.4. in a notch that would be sick fast... you can get notches down to an easy 2900 lbs. thing would accelerate like a lambo.

 

Right now the title says it ways 2650 lbs. That's what i'm thinking but i'll probably go 4v since i have to get an engine harness and computer for the swap anyways. I sold my rods and pistons awhile back though but i still have the block and crank and timing cover.

 

anyone else got something put together? since i'm in sight of finishing( but running into lots of stupid things to finish) i wanna see some pics from you guys....

don't make me come looking for you guys....


2v4now: hows your coming along?

 

Is there a difference between 2v, 3v, and 4v blocks? Because i was looking at DSS short blocks and the don't offer short blocks for the 4v just 2v and 3v. I thought they were all the same. Do you think it's just the valve relief in the pistons?

 

the 2v and 4v are identical 100%. the 3v have a different mount setup but can be adapted to older cars.

 

Navi's use iron blocks and forged cranks right?

 

the magazine tested a navi motor and ran it twin turbo to 13300hp without fail. they came fully forged i believe.

 

Well damn that's pretty sweet if that's true. I found a 03 Navi 4v motor for $3400 on ebay. Don't have the money right now but when i do that would be sweet i was planning on having to change the rods and pistons.

 

they're not forged motors... they're stock HE cast pistons and skinny minnie frag-o-rods. I'm pretty sure the navi's after 98 came with a standard cast steel crank. Under that kind of power (assuming 13300 = 1300) the ability of the main caps to stay where they belong will have a lot to do with the motor holding together. You'd have to be nuts to do that on a stock bottom end. I'd be looking for billet rods and main and head studs, o-ringed heads... the works.

 

i\ll see if i can find the article on it.

 

This man speaks the truth... Wait, I think I said that back about page one hundo.

All 5.4 Motors until 1998 were forged crank
From 1999-Current ONLY the Lightning had the forged crank

 

Ive been lazy this weekend.

I need to package up my pistons and rings to ship back still, I should do that tonight actually.

 

i so close to cranking the beast up but there are so many little details i have to resolve first.

note to all: the waterneck on 96-98 motors are diffrent then 2000-up. the later points to the right and the earlier one points to the left. also the newer ones have smaller holes for the bolts since it is aluminum and the plastic ones have metal sleeves in it and bigger holes for it.

 

I have a couple spare water necks if you need one... freebie+ shipping.

 

I did alot of research last night and all the info i read didn't have the navi's with all forged. That's okay it won't be that bad to do.

 

Well mine came to a major problem yesterday in the form of me wrecking my car. I was sandwhiched between a car going 5 mph and one going 40 mph. I wonder if they are going to total it out. If so i'm getting a fox hatchback.

 

Damn bro, thats a slight setback.

You make it out ok ? Any pics of the carnage ?

 

dam bro thats 2 guys here losing thier car to wrecks

 

Hope your alright buddy car accident's are never fun.

 

ok, this is gonna be fun. i just put 8 qts of oil in the motor and remote oil filter and it is only halfway up the safe area on the dipstick. on the old motor all i had was the stock oil pan from my 4.6 and it took 7 qts then. so i guess the more oil the cooler it will stay.

 

with my oil cooler, -8 lines and the canton pan I should have a 9.5qt capacity. Isn't it great. More oil is better...

 

well also more oil stays healthy longer....

 

I was thinking yesterday - why pay 250 for an aftermarket oil pan, when I can modify a stock one for the cost of digging out the welder.

 

If I had time to weld one up I'd just make it from all the spare aluminum plate I have but I don't have time so canton it is.

Any of you guys know how to tig weld and want to fab one up for me? I'll send you an oil pan and a bunch of thin plate aircraft grade aluminum.

 

What do you gain by having more oil ?

That is, on a non roadcourse car with a redline approx the same as stock

 

longer oil life, cooler oil temps, increased part life... better lubrication in general due to the increase in additives that the oil is capable of delivering. THe additives are the part that wears out... the base stock is usually fine for much longer than 3K miles. With more total oil you can safely stretch out your change intervals.

 

So thats the big gain, is oil change intervals?

If oil was changed at 3k there would be no real gain since the additives would be fresh ?

 

at the 3K interval you'd still have a greater proportion of the additive pack still active so you'd have overall longer engine part life all else being equal. It's better for the motor but not in hp gain way... more overall reliability.