i never ran a alt bracket for the two years i had the first 5.4 but with this one being built to flog will get one. i'll just make a custom one.

 

Here is an interesting read I found while looking for info on the Aussie 3v 5.4 intake.

4.6 vs 5.4 - 5.4 owners point of view

 

O ok cool. I don't think it should be that much of a problem, maybe when i get the plates ill have a piece of aluminum cut to the same hight as the plates and get it put between there to work

 

I would easily consider a multi-stage 300 shot. Just not all 300 at once. I'd probably start off with 150, then stage in two more 75hp hits. If you hit much harder than that you'll have massive problems blowing the tires off.

 

i looked into the 5.4 4v swap alot, some claim that the aussie heads are updated R's and some claim that they are 03/04's i've seen credible sources saying both(leaning towards updated R's but not sure), and contrary to what is commonly said, 03 navigators did not come with 03/04 cobra heads, all navi motors came with the extra large itnake port navi heads

 

i planned on 150 of the line nozle and 2nd stage 200+ second gear direct port

 

sounds complicated , i'm just going strait up 12:1 Cr with a 150 shot. i don't know about that nozzle thing though, that thing is bank, but maybe i can get a trick flow intake.... should be nice.

 

Hey guys, if i'm getting a whole 5.4 2v will I have any problems with the oil pan or should i use my 4.6 pan??? will that work?

Ok so, when i get this 5.4 what all will i need to get it to work.

I know that i will need plates and someone to hook the exaust up. But will i need to have it tuned or what?

One other question, the best cam for torque on this motor is the stock pi cam right? Thanks guys.

 

use your 4.6 pan. You'll have to bend a couple baffles a little to keep them from hitting the crank. no biggie..

you'll need plates, exahust work, a custom tune and 24lb or bigger injectors if you're planning on a bigger cam.

I'd go with a bigger cam...like a Vt stage 1 or a comp xe270. It'll have plenty of torque and better hp numbers. A xe262 would work as well. Either is likely to increase torqe with the kinds of charge velocities the 5.4 generates. The stock cams are a comprimise that doesn't do as much good for hp and tq as it could.

 

12:1 is too high for a street motor unless you plan on using race gas forever. I'd stop at 11:1. Trust me... you'll hate 12:1. if it's a race car, then 12:1 and nitrous will please you.

 

Does this need to be done on all 4.6 pans including aftermarket ?

Should the baffles be removed instead ? Also what about a 4.6 windage tray will that be a problem with the larger crank ?

 

dunno... on the aftermarket pans. if you're doing an aftermarket pan you should pony up for the aftermarket windage tray. I've seen a 4.6 FRPP tray adapted to the 5.4 but I don't know if it needed major modification or not.

 

Thats something i would like to know, that big crank hitting oil seems like a bad combo. yea maybe 11:1 would be ok. What kinda cc piston am i looking at for that? like a 3cc or something?

 

I guess I'm going to have to look into that when i buy the tray and pan.

FWIW I got a call today, I definatly need to bore .20 over on my block, so I'll be shipping my pistons and rings back to MMR and waiting for the new ones.

So now that the motor will be a 333 CID engine, I was thinking HALFEVL for a custom licence plate (333 is half of 666). Could also be a reference to the whole sleeper thing or how timid the modulars are as daily drivers. Could also be funny to have the whole 5.4L (well 5.5L now) reference infront of everyones face and them not get it.

 

flat tops with stock PI heads and standard bore gets you 11.1:1. I'm using -4.5cc dish and getting 10.5 out of it and room for lots more valve lift if I ever decide to go that way.

I like it... that's clever. With the 20 overbore you'll raise the compression about .2 ... FYI. That may require a different dish depending on your application.

 

Raise the compression? So from 8.0 I should bump up to 8.2ish ?

I'm curious just how far you can mil the heads without the timing chains getting bitchy. I don't care about the intake, or the PTV since I have plenty of room for both - but those timing chains make me nervous.

 

don't mill the heads... if they're good you shouldn't need to.

yeah, when you add bore or stroke you increase compression ratio as a side effect. If you have 8:1 with your current dish size choice (fill me in and I'll double check for you) then you can expect to see 8.2 with that same dish size on a .020" overbore.

 

18CC dish on a 3v head (I believe they were about 51CC stock).

Should be 8:1 on a 5.4 3V and 8.5:1 on a 5.4 2v if I remember correct.

 

at those ratios .2 isn't jack to fret over. You'll be fine even with gross amounts of boost.

 

Figuired as much. It was either 18CC and 8:1 or 14CC and about 8.5:1 on the 3v but I got a great deal on the 18's.

 

that sounds pretty cool. I was thinking though that when you boar it over then the cr goes down not up, but i could and probably am totaly wrong ,

The reason i asked about the 3 cc ones was that i got a set of cobra pistons that are 3 cc dished and i possibly are going to use them but who knows.

 

i bought a frpp windage tray and on the 5.4 the crank smacks it on the rotation. so i bent them out alittle to clear the crank rotation. if u look closely u can see where i bent it slightly.

 

so the pan won't pust that thing back into the way of the crank will it? and it looks like you just nudged the end closes to the end of the block. is that it?

 

the scrapers were hitting the crank so i bent them out so there was about 2mm of clearence...

 

o ok so there is no worry about them hitting the crank now? do they work like the baffles in the pan? or how does thatwork?

 

Can/should the baffles in the pan be removed?

At their location I dont really see a point, being as the sump is in the rear, and with a windage tray the oil should be off the crank anyhow.

 

they're there as much for anti-slosh as for windage. bend em' but leave em in. Looks like I'll be using my FRPP windage tray unless someone can tell me they want to buy it... make offer. It's just exactly like myillwill's

 

on the stock oil pan u will need to bend the baffles alittle.

 

cool dude, isn't the ford windage tray only like 40 bucks.

 

I dunno... I got it with a bunch of other parts so it cost me basically nothing.