yep, i'm going to get the short block together today. anyone know the size of the motor mount bolts?

 

head diameter or thread pitch?

 

both, i can't find one single bolt in my shop or a friends shop that rebuilds 4.6 motors....

 

got the short block together tonite. still waiting on my girdle and windage tray...

 

a thing of beauty.

keep em coming!

 

would have put the timing parts on but i have to dig thru boxes to find the chains...bbut here is the revised shortblock...

 

Here you go fellas.... My car should be done very very soon.... was supposed to be done this week but now looking at late next week..... :




Here are the specs: Built Lightning 5.4 L bored over .030 to a "335",Lightning Heads 3 angle valve job w/ comp cam springs,Eaton Stage "VI" Port,Lightning forged crank,Manley forged H-beam rods w/ ARP 2000 caps,Manley forged 18cc dishtop pistons,Dual SVT Focus fuel pumps,LFP oil separator,3lb upper 6lb lower pulleys, Fluidyne heatexchanger,NX 100 shot,JLT CAI,SCT X-CAL II,SCT 90mm BA-2400MAF,TKO600,Spec Stage III,Steeda Quad. & adj. cable,FRPP 3.73's,Ratech Kit,Strange 31 spline axles,Pro Series rear end girdle,UPR DS loop,UPR subframe connectors,UPR Upper & Lower control arms,BBK O/R X,SLP LM II

 

i need to change my shorts......

that looks awesome i gotta see dyno numbers...

 

I'm jealous!

 

Is a hood even gonna fit over that massive engine?

 

not without a 6" cowl.

 

Nope, im gonna cut a hole through it...

 

I'm not really fond of cutting holes in the hood, but that thing will be a beast. Can't wait to see what that thing puts out. Congrats man!

 

i have 3 sets of chains and they all are for a 4.6. anyone have a set they want to donate?

 

cough... have a set... cough. wannem?

 

Hey all just registered to let you all know that I purchased a bare block from 50resto.com as well as some Patriot Stage 3 Heads, Comp XE268 cams, and I am about to order the Reichard Racing adaptor plates and an HPS hardball'r intake.

What else will I need? and what should I expect as far as hp/torque with the Stage 3 heads and Comp cams? This engine will remain N/A.

I'll be getting a 95 style Cobra R hood that I hope will clear the intake. It provides 2.5" I believe and from previous posts that should be enough.

This will be my first mod motor to build. I've built several toyota engines including a 5VZ and a 2JZ in the past. This is a totally different situation.

 

with that combo you should see in excess of 300-325rwhp and 340-360rwtq from what we're seeing from similar setups. A local did 340/340 with basically the same thing, through a cobbled together intake and a forged bottom end.

You'll need an 8bolt clutch and flywheel and a little tinkering on the downpipes from the header flanges. Not much... just add an inch here and there and then spread the pipes apart a bit. I'd also consider a stiffer set of front springs. FRPP C springs will help tame the extra front end weight.

 

What would be required to get this thing around 350-375rwhp N/A?

 

BTW everything will be forged on the engine, rods/pistons/crank.

 

lol, thanks, i located a set here in town today from a frustrated lightning project. but thanks anyway. now for the tough question. since i have after market cams, they do not have a keyslot for the ford tool to fit into for lining up the cams. who has a way to get these suckers correct without taking it to the dealership or shop. also the chains do not have the marked links like the haynes book says to look for.

 

John Mihovitz has a tool... I think he works for accufab or somewhere like that. There's a cam timing tool on ebay too. Good luck.

Blitz, to get past 350 and up to 375 you'll need:
one helluva aggressive cam
6500rpm
intake with a massive plenum
heads hogged out till hell won't have it.
10.5:1 compression.

That should get in the area as long as the motor is otherwise well built.

 

For the chains, just lay them end to end and mark each end. Here's a good article on it:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...t2V/index3.php

 

Would a really aggressive cam be streetable?

The hardball'r wouldn't have a big enough plenum? Should I buy something else or just have the plenum bored?

Also will I be able to maintain my AODE transmission using an 8 bolt flywheel? Is there one made?

 

depends on your definition of streetable. It'll lope pretty good and you'll end up having to use a higher that stock gear ratio (3.55 or 3.73) but it should still be something that'll idle below 800rpm.

The hardball'R is close but i don't know if it's there in as delivered form.

The only way to really find out is to build it and try. If you miss by 25hp, then use a 50hp shot of nitrous and you're there and safe.

 

Whats a good compression for a forced induction mod engine? Would 10.5:1 work for say a KB 2.2?

 

You shouldn't have a problem bolting the trans up though unless it's built strong, it may not be able to hold up. Also, if the Edelbrock intake is a good piece (which it probably is), to make it fit the 5.4, instead of using adaptor plates (which increases runner length which the 5.4 doesn't need), you can cut it in half at plenum to make it wider (which benefits you since the plenum volume increases). The only issue with going in that direction is that you will need a custom adaptor to fit a standard Holley flanged throttle body to your intake since you widened the plenum (which if you can, is even better since that will increase the plenum volum even more and give you a place to hook up your vacuum hoses, EGR, etc. from your stock elbow). However, I don't think the Edelbrock intake is out yet...

 

You guys are just full of information. My knowledge of engine building is pretty much limited to 2JZ and 5VZ Toyota engines so having you guys as resources is great. Combined with my engine builder here in Houston I think this engine will end up being one of the most fun ive ever driven.

Built rear-end and transmission already in the works.

 

10.5:1 is waaaaay too high for any kind of conventional boost levels. Drop to 9:1 and you should be good to sane boost levels. 8.5 if you want to go nuts.

 

i'd like to have over 350 rwhp with my build.
so far i have:
bored .020"
all internal forged parts
270 cams
oversized valves
slight porting of the heads
udp pullies
timing adjuster
electric water pump
c&l plenum and maf
24# injectors
70mm tb
CAI/K&N
frpp headers
off-road prochamber/flowmasters/dumps
- that should get me to 350rwhp u think?

 

I'd bump the injectors to 30lb units or you'll start to see super high duty cycles at WOT. Other than that the porting of the heads will have a big impact on final numbers. The more they flow the better. If you have flow numbers on them then I can do some math and see if it's possible/likely.

What pistons are you running? What's the CR? Which intake? Ported? Reichard plates?

Get a 75mm TB and a 90mm LMAF as well. It can use all the inbound airflow you can get into it.

I think you'll definitely be in the 300+ area, probably around 315-325 (given a stock CR of 9.4:1), possibly higher. CR will tell us more though.