More bass please!!
 

Maybe it's just me but does anyone want a little more bass out of their Mach system? i mean it's a good system but i like bass in my music. And not splattered speaker bass. Does anyone one know of a subwoofer setup without having to re-wire my whole system and also something that won't overpower my speakers if a add an amp?

My bro w01stang added an amp and sub to his mach system. The most important thing to consider is to get an amp that has a Bass control knob that you can mount around drivers seat so you can lower or raise volume of sub without having to touch the stock radio.

Kicker
 

Just ditch the mach system and get some kicker subs i have two 12 inch solobarics now and i got more power then i can handle.

The gain is not a volume setting. Its to match the preout voltage coming from your headunit. Its more of a distortion knob. you will clip the living bejesus out of your drivers that way.

I got the mach 1000 system and think it sounds great for a stock stereo.

but yeah, i wouldnt mind some more bass.

I plan to get the rear seat delete kit and modifying it so it becomes the front baffle for a speaker box and i plan to drop a couple 10in subs in it and getting a good 500W amp.

Its gonna be a major pain in the ass though. I dont plan to have it done before the end of summer, too many other projects, but when i do i will document the mach 1000 sub removal and the wiring of it as well as the modding of the rear seat delete kit. Ill be sure to post it so if anyone wants to get better subs they can use it for reference.

Damn good point, im glad you stated that. Remember, OVER POWER your subwoofers and keep the gain down under half. This will give you clean, rich, full, powerful bass. If the gain is all the way up the signal will clip and it can tear your speakers apart.

Clipping = antichrist of audio.

----For all of you who dont know too much about stereos----
Think of it like this, you have a sub that can handle 500 watts RMS, and you have a 250w amp RMS that peaks at about 500w. You turn the gain all the way up and managed to get about 350w constant, but it will clip like a motherf****r. You WILL destroy your driver by doing this, and it will sound like crap.

Better way to do it? Get the 500w sub and at LEAST a 500w RMS amp. You can run the amp with the gain turned down and still pound the hell out of that speaker and give all your passangers a good kidney massage.

A watt is not a watt is not a watt. They are not all equal.

Ive seen drivers that are rated for 500w get totally fried by a 200w amp with the gain turned al the way up.

If you find that in order to get the SPL you want that you have to turn the gain up over half way, then either get a higher power amp and/or a sub driver with a better efficiency rating.

There was this kid i knew who had a sub box with 4 8in drivers and he had 4 amps. He had the gain turned ALL THE WAY UP.
"Yo Chris, check out my bass man!"

All i heared were his cheap ass 2nd rate amps with the gain turned all the way up bottoming out the drivers. worst sound ive ever heard. Loud? Yeah. But what is the point of volume if it sounds like crap?

Ill take clean smooth powerful bass anyday. its a little bit harder to get than crappy bass, but well worth it

Must of been a long time since you guys installed a modern amp like when vacum tubes were still used :laughing3 . The Gain is located on the amp and the Bass boost control runs from the amp via a wire next to driver to raise or lower the dbs of the sub. Increasing the dbs will not damage anything unless you miss matched the amp and sub which is no fault of bass boost knob. This is the same as having an equalizer and rasing the dbs for the frequency that the sub operates on. If you are using the bass control knob on your stock radio to control bass this is not good as your are lowering the bass on all the speakers not just the sub and will change how the sound is when all you want to do is just lower the sub or higher it. Here is a nice amp with boost knob it glows blue and looks real nice. I use Rockford and have 2 800 series amps and yes with boost knob.

Just a quick reply here. I have the mach 460 (no sub woofers just the amps). Geez that thing thumps like crazy at high volume. Just remember when you get past 40 years old hearing loss is not fun. You will have ringing in your ears that will not ever stop. Drive you crazy it will. :offtheair :icon_shak

Hey Venom....i'm liking your setup that you have in your car. Is that comming from a Mach system? if so have you kept all of your stock speakers, and are the Mach amps stil in it? Which Subs are you running with that. oh 1 more thing..did you have to take it to a custom shop to get this done? Because i went to Circut City and Best Buy and they told me that I wasn't able to add anything to my Mach. I just don't want to have to spend the money to rewire the system and it not be good!

Thanks, I did all the work there is nothing stock and I did not have the Mach system. I have 2 ten inch Rockford HE2 DVC (dual voil coils) You can wire an amp to your existing Mach system here is the info on how my brother did it http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/despeeds1.htm .

I've gotten past my bass days, I dropped a grand into the stereo of my Chevy S10, and it had great bass, but wasn't nearly as balanced as the Mach 460 sounds.

I ran a JL 10-W1 (125 watt) with a JL 250 watt amp.. hit very clean, and actually fit behind the seats of a regular cab!

Hey Venom, thanks for that link.

I have the mach 1000 system, it gets a lot more bass than the 460 but that aint really saying a whole lot. Ive been planning on getting a rear-seat delete kit (or building my own) and turning it into the front baffle for a sub box and getting rid of all that crap in my trunk.
Now i know where to tap off of to get the signal to the amps!

ive got quite a bit of car audio history
i had a 97 s10 that took 5th place at usaci world finals for sound quality. then went onto SPL and had a 94 beretta with a single 12 pushin out 145s on termlab with a trunk setup. that setup got me 2nd place at midwest finals, 2nd place WI,IL,MI finals, and a bunch of tropheys inbetween. I was really in it for reality SPL where i was only 3 dB down from my normal runs which is really amazing. I have yet to see anyone who can do that.
had plans for the mustang but didnt feel like having a 50 pound sub in my trunk with 2000 watts, such as my beretta did.

Were you competing in SPL drag race?

Tube people Tubes i got a ten inch tube with a eclipse 10 inch sub inverted on the end with a 600 watt mono amp. the 1000 burned out. but tubes while not hitting at all at low volume smash it like nothing else when ya crank it. i wouldnt say so much that its louder than a box. but when it comes to jiggling your eyeballs and just liquifying your back seat passengers tubes deffintly let out more vibrations. please tell me some one else agrees with me

I think he was talking about Tube Amps, not tube enclosures. Tube amps are pretty oldschool and usually dont put out a lot of power. Not sure about car audio, but high end home audio a good $2000 tube amp will be pushing maybe 1-45 watts depending on what yer wanting from one. Tube amps have a higher distortion rating and are not very linear. Hoewver, they are attributed to having a nice warm sound that can make most solid state amplifiers sound almost sterile and clinical.

Tube amps were the norm for a long time untill solid state technologys all but replaced tubes in almost every audio aspect except for guitar amps and high end audio stereo systems. Heh, take Wavac 833 Monoblocks for example. a Pair of monoblocks weight something around 400lbs and cost about $350,000 for a pair. They totally suck on paper when looking at the distortion levels, linearity, and over all frequency responce, but those who have heared them have a tendancy to consider them the holy grail of amplification. <laugh>

Pair up some Wavac 833's and a set of Kharma's top of the line speakers and you have already blown 1.35 million dollars and still dont even have pre-amp, source, cables, or accoustical treatments. <ROFL>

sorry, im a bit of an audiophile, this car thing has totally taken me by storm but i used to lurk around on the Audiogon forums.

Meca's boom and zoom or do you mean just SPL competition? Ive never done the boom and zoom.

Slappy i was talking about tube enclosures not the amps im too young to even work those old things lol. tube encloses let out all the rumble from the bass. it just littrally(however you spell that) vibrates everything. i mean have you ever seen quaterpanels and a roof shake? you can do it with tubes for way less than it would cost to do it with boxs. i put a piece or paper over my port on my tube and put a penny on it and i can shoot the penny through the air like 20 feet. lol always get the box guys pissed.

You will get a cleaner, crisper sound out of a properly fitted box than a tube. The first setup I built was in a tube because it was cheaper, but I won't go back to that again after getting a quality box setup... Sadly, the Mach 460 in the 'Stang doesn't even sound halfway decent compared to the system in my beater. :icon_scra :glasses9:

i used the method that you can see on mustang world.

I have an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10" DVQ
http://infinitysystems.com/caraudio/product.aspx?ProdId='KAPPA+PERFECT10DVQ'&Ser=KPE&C at=SUB

Pioneer GM-7100M amp
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...786553,00.html

and now i hit hard as a mo fo

very easy to install and at a low cost. nice part about it, is if you get an aftermarket head unit down the road, all you have to do is pull the RCA cable the head unit and you got bass.

if you have questions let me know.

JL W7 10" is all you need. Matched up with Infinity or JL highs and mids, and get a good head unit.

JL is overpriced garbage. Go with a resonant engineering xxx or Adire brahma and youll be happier at almost half the cost.

The W7 12's kill any other 12 or 15 i've ever heard.

Get into the competition world of car audio, youll never see a w7, unless its just a show car.

Um my girl has a 12 inch w7 in her daily driver and my buddy had 3 12 inch w7s in his daily driver sooo not only in show cars

I run my rockfords for a good 7000 watts when i want to shake the earth but for the most part I have to turn them off and listen to the stock mach so i dont liquify my brain :p

7000 watts. LOL. good luck....
you dont have enough amperage to power 7000 watts.
lets do the math on this too.
W=V x A
A=W/V

I will give you the benefit of the doubt and give you 14.4v which will be optimum voltage with no drops.

so with that said.
a = 7000 / 14.4
a = 486 amps.
Your stock alternator does 130 at full load. You do not have 4 batteries and you arent running a dual alternator setup to juice them batteries up, or even a high output to run that kind of current draw. So like MYTH BUSTERS, your myth has been busted.
nice try buddy...lol

re-read my reply.

You will hardly ever see anyone get into competition seriously with w7s. I used to be a hardcore car audio enthusiast with a world champion sound quality truck, and a midwest finalist car in SPL that was a daily driver. I have never seen anyone who actually competes with W7s and attends all the shows, but I have seen people with W7 setups who like to see what they are doing on the mics. Dont get me wrong, the w7 is a nice driver but the cost just throws it all way because you can get better for cheaper.

this is my set up....just put it in about 3 weeks ago
the box was a bastard to build and get into that tiny trunk
[IMG]

[QUOTE=MattJ]7000 watts. LOL. good luck....
you dont have enough amperage to power 7000 watts.
lets do the math on this too.
W=V x A
A=W/V

I will give you the benefit of the doubt and give you 14.4v which will be optimum voltage with no drops.

so with that said.
a = 7000 / 14.4
a = 486 amps.
Your stock alternator does 130 at full load. You do not have 4 batteries and you arent running a dual alternator setup to juice them batteries up, or even a high output to run that kind of current draw. So like MYTH BUSTERS, your myth has been busted.
nice try buddy...lol


I have 3 farad capacitors, they keep the juice in the trunk when it is called for and I couldn't stand to have the thing run for a long time because I dont feel like driving with ear plugs

Ok so you've got 3 farads available. That does ABSOLUTELY nothing on a 12v system that cant supply the problem in the first place. The main idea of having a cap is to even out your voltage. A capacitor does not replace that for a source of power. Again like the JL w7s, you will not see them in an SPL orientated vehicle. Why you ask? They hurt you and for the price of 2 fareds (150 bucks for both) you can have over a billion farads out of a 12v 100 amphr deep cycle battery for the same price. A 12v 100a deep cycle will hold 4,320,000 Joules, and your 3 caps hold 432 Joules, given if it is fully charged.

(all based on 12v)...
In physics we all should of learned that Joules = Watts / Seconds so change that up to Watts = Joules / Seconds
w = 432j / 3s (ill give you 3 seconds of "the perfect world" without voltage drop, full power from the caps, and free of the other electronic mumbo jumbo that causes you to lose power in your audio application)
so your wattage from 3 caps in a perfect world = 144watts, not including your 70% effeciency from your amp if its class D, or 50% if its A/B, voltage drop, power loss, ect as listed above.

Now with your normal autozone deep cycle 100a 12v battery, again ill give you the benifit of the doubt and round the number down to 1 billion farads which will equal 4,320,00 Joules. Ill spare you the math on the rest of this and just point out to you why the real SPL orientated vehicles use banks of batteries (with copper bars) instead of banks of capacitors.
:glasses1: