Tubular K member install.
#1
02-16-2005 | 03:31 PM
Thread Starter
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Modular Misfit
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 329
From: Iowa
Tubular K member install.
Installing a tubular K member is a great mod for many reasons. Weight reduction, ability to access underside of motor easily and makes exhaust work on a 2V MUCH easier! I wrote this article with the common guy doing this is their garage/driveway with basic tools. Let me also add that when I started this project I knew nothing about what I was doing. So if you feel the same way, I guess your in the right place!. Heres a few tools I would call pretty much neccesity:
floor jack
Metric sockets/ratchet up to 22-24mm (air tools not necessary but will speed install along)
Metric wrenches up to 24mm (yes you'll need an 18mm too)
4 jackstands
4x4 block of wood (18" or so)
Tool for removal of ABS sensor in front (female torx I think?)
Needle nose pliers
Hammers (rubber/steel)
Prybar or big flat screwdriver
wd-40
I'd say give your self a good 8 hours to do this job.
I'll admit, I was bit hesistant to tackle the K install, but after staring at the parts for almost 9mos, I decided I better get it done. Lets get one thing straight right off the bat, this isn't a difficult task. Actually, I would call it relatively easy.
1st off, get your car as high as possible, the higher the better. You can't ever have too much room. Remove your front wheels, rotors, etc. and wire up your calipers out of the way. If you have ABS this is a good time to get it unhooked and out of harms way as well. Unbolt your tie-rods ends and give them a little whack and they should pop right out. Unbolt the struts and remove them (be aware that once you unbolt your struts that your a-arms are going to fall down) Pushing down on the arms may be necessary to remove the coil springs (be careful, they might still have some energy stored in them). At this point you need to remove the single bolt that is holding the steering shaft assembly together. I would make a mark on the shaft to be sure it gets put back in the same position upon re-assembly. You should now remove the 2 long bolts that secure the steering rack. I wired the rack prior to removing it, this way you can unbolt it and pull it up and out of the way with the wires and not worry about dropping it. At this point you can unbolt the motor from the stock K. The nuts are easily accessible thru the a-arms. You also need to unbolt the support bar that ties the factory K together ( under the very front of the tranny).
Supporting your motor/tranny: Here is why its important to jack the whole car up in the air. To support the engine/tranny yet not be in the way, the floor jack must be placed with the handle towards the back of the vehicle. This is the reasoning behind removing the factory K support bar that goes underneath the front of the tranny. I put part of a 4x4 block under the oil pan and partially under the tranny pan. Gently jack up the motor/tranny just till you see the weight lifted off the factory K. You are now ready to drop the K.
Unbolt the 4 bolts (two on each side) on the bottom/back of the K 1st. Once you start unbolting the front ones, the K is gonna come down pretty quick so be prepared. Once you get the factory K off and moved out of the way you can begin installing your new tube K. Check to see where your grounding strap is, mine happened to be right where the tube K was going to be bolted up. Just unhook it for now. Put the tube K up into position and use the factory bolts to secure it. Re-install your steering rack, put some wd-40 or other lubricant on the rubber bushings and it will slide right on. I would take a minute to look at everything at this point and double check that you have secured all items
Now is a good time to relocate your ground wire and bolt your steering arm back together. Don't forget to lower the engine back down and secure it to the new K. Put on your a-arm/spindle assembly. I would put the struts on next and then tie-rod ends, followed by the brake assembly. Once you get the wheels put back on, take it to a reputable shop to get it aligned.
Just a little side note, this would be an ideal time for brake upgrades or long tube headers to be installed. When you re-install the steering rack you'll find that your bolts will be too long. I went and purchased 12 flat washers( 7/16") and 2 lockwashers....73cents...problem solved. I would have bought shorter bolts but finding that size that was graded 9.8 was difficult.
As for the brand of K you install thats up to you. This was a PA Racing brand. I have heard varying stories about other brands. I can't speak for them though since I have never used them. Do your research and make an educated purchase. After all, you can get well over $1000 invested in a hurry with a complete front suspension set-up. Take your time and don't be rushed, this is supporting your entire motor, front suspension and steering assemblies so its pretty important to get it right the 1st time....good luck!
Any questions PM me. :headbang:
Adam Smith
floor jack
Metric sockets/ratchet up to 22-24mm (air tools not necessary but will speed install along)
Metric wrenches up to 24mm (yes you'll need an 18mm too)
4 jackstands
4x4 block of wood (18" or so)
Tool for removal of ABS sensor in front (female torx I think?)
Needle nose pliers
Hammers (rubber/steel)
Prybar or big flat screwdriver
wd-40
I'd say give your self a good 8 hours to do this job.
I'll admit, I was bit hesistant to tackle the K install, but after staring at the parts for almost 9mos, I decided I better get it done. Lets get one thing straight right off the bat, this isn't a difficult task. Actually, I would call it relatively easy.
1st off, get your car as high as possible, the higher the better. You can't ever have too much room. Remove your front wheels, rotors, etc. and wire up your calipers out of the way. If you have ABS this is a good time to get it unhooked and out of harms way as well. Unbolt your tie-rods ends and give them a little whack and they should pop right out. Unbolt the struts and remove them (be aware that once you unbolt your struts that your a-arms are going to fall down) Pushing down on the arms may be necessary to remove the coil springs (be careful, they might still have some energy stored in them). At this point you need to remove the single bolt that is holding the steering shaft assembly together. I would make a mark on the shaft to be sure it gets put back in the same position upon re-assembly. You should now remove the 2 long bolts that secure the steering rack. I wired the rack prior to removing it, this way you can unbolt it and pull it up and out of the way with the wires and not worry about dropping it. At this point you can unbolt the motor from the stock K. The nuts are easily accessible thru the a-arms. You also need to unbolt the support bar that ties the factory K together ( under the very front of the tranny).
Supporting your motor/tranny: Here is why its important to jack the whole car up in the air. To support the engine/tranny yet not be in the way, the floor jack must be placed with the handle towards the back of the vehicle. This is the reasoning behind removing the factory K support bar that goes underneath the front of the tranny. I put part of a 4x4 block under the oil pan and partially under the tranny pan. Gently jack up the motor/tranny just till you see the weight lifted off the factory K. You are now ready to drop the K.
Unbolt the 4 bolts (two on each side) on the bottom/back of the K 1st. Once you start unbolting the front ones, the K is gonna come down pretty quick so be prepared. Once you get the factory K off and moved out of the way you can begin installing your new tube K. Check to see where your grounding strap is, mine happened to be right where the tube K was going to be bolted up. Just unhook it for now. Put the tube K up into position and use the factory bolts to secure it. Re-install your steering rack, put some wd-40 or other lubricant on the rubber bushings and it will slide right on. I would take a minute to look at everything at this point and double check that you have secured all items
Now is a good time to relocate your ground wire and bolt your steering arm back together. Don't forget to lower the engine back down and secure it to the new K. Put on your a-arm/spindle assembly. I would put the struts on next and then tie-rod ends, followed by the brake assembly. Once you get the wheels put back on, take it to a reputable shop to get it aligned.
Just a little side note, this would be an ideal time for brake upgrades or long tube headers to be installed. When you re-install the steering rack you'll find that your bolts will be too long. I went and purchased 12 flat washers( 7/16") and 2 lockwashers....73cents...problem solved. I would have bought shorter bolts but finding that size that was graded 9.8 was difficult.
As for the brand of K you install thats up to you. This was a PA Racing brand. I have heard varying stories about other brands. I can't speak for them though since I have never used them. Do your research and make an educated purchase. After all, you can get well over $1000 invested in a hurry with a complete front suspension set-up. Take your time and don't be rushed, this is supporting your entire motor, front suspension and steering assemblies so its pretty important to get it right the 1st time....good luck!
Any questions PM me. :headbang:
Adam Smith
#3
02-26-2005 | 12:09 AM
Thread Starter
|
Modular Misfit
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 329
From: Iowa
Its PA Racing brand Chromoly K and A arms. The struts are Strange 10way adjustables, and I am using Afco 14"x175lbs springs. The rear is stock. I'm pretty anxious to get out and get some new times with this set-up. One thing that I need to add to this thread is:
I used Fox body A-arms and struts because they are shorter than SN-95 ones. On my car when I race I run skinnnies up front so I have to use a 1/2 inch of spacer to clear my calipers. On 99-up its 7/16" spacer....anyway...when I tried to shorten up my tie-rod ends, the ends bottomed out. I had to cut where the tie rod ends thread on, off about 1". The ends then went on perfect and the alignment is great. Just wanted to add that.
I used Fox body A-arms and struts because they are shorter than SN-95 ones. On my car when I race I run skinnnies up front so I have to use a 1/2 inch of spacer to clear my calipers. On 99-up its 7/16" spacer....anyway...when I tried to shorten up my tie-rod ends, the ends bottomed out. I had to cut where the tie rod ends thread on, off about 1". The ends then went on perfect and the alignment is great. Just wanted to add that.
#4
02-26-2005 | 04:48 PM
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,440
From: Northern Va
Ive been thinking about going with a similar set up. Either PA or D&D k member/coil overs with strange shocks and struts. Im leaning more toward D&D because I can get the full kit for $625 shipped and I havent heard any complaints about them. Is yours a daily driver, hows it holding up on the road?
#5
02-27-2005 | 11:30 PM
Thread Starter
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Modular Misfit
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 329
From: Iowa
Originally Posted by 03gtmustang
Ive been thinking about going with a similar set up. Either PA or D&D k member/coil overs with strange shocks and struts. Im leaning more toward D&D because I can get the full kit for $625 shipped and I havent heard any complaints about them. Is yours a daily driver, hows it holding up on the road?
Adam
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