Hey guys, first time poster. I got some questions regarding nitrous and was hoping you all could help. To let you known I have a 2000 Mustang GT 5 spd. with all the normal bolt ons. Do you think a 100 shot would be to much? Also is there a particular nitrous system that I should be looking to get? I was thinking the NX or the Venom. And does anyone know the ramifications of having a nitrous system. Thanks

 

Boy, have you come to the right place! Being n/a myself, I can't answer your question, but I predict that MT's #1 Customer will be along any minute now!
:notworthy

 

LOL, ain't that the truth. MT#1 is Professor Nitrous.

 

100 shot is not too much... :glasses10

 

your motor can hold a 150hp shot totaly fine. so the 100 is pretty safe actually. as per the brand it doesnt really matter, some like this fancy venom setup, it reads the a/f ratio though your o2 sensors and it adds fuel by making the computer pulse the injectors more. Me i would go NX,NOS,or Nitrous Works, or Compucar and get a good efi wet kit.

Also you will want ot run 1 step colder plugs, and use a window switch if your an stick shift(if your auto its a good saftey measure but not really as needed).The window switch will turn the nitrous off before the rev limiter preventing any lean conditions or pudduling which creates backfires. other than that you might want ot get a tune but its not 100% nesasery.

and number one rule of spray is dont be greedy, and everything will be fast and fun.

later,
Dustin

 

I am speechless............

 

Well, that didn't last.

Lots of opinions on nitrous.....

I wrote a thread a while back called "Nitrous 101". Here it is:

http://www.mustangtuningforums.com/s...hlight=nitrous

This may be a good thread to read if you are a beginner.

I am a big fan of the Venom systems. It is what I use. I also like NX. But, most of the systems on the market are good if applied correctly. A bad NX set up is no good either.

Also look for a thread called "Venom Nitrous...This is how it works".

 

Hey "MT's #1Customer" nice article on the basics of N.O.S. Iam kind of new to the site was recommended by another guy on this board. Iam also a Venom 1000 user and Ive had it for about 4yrs using the 100 shot with stock inj. and stock fuel pump. I think its a great system but like I said in the past too other guys i think its a little too safe? A lot of people scrutinize it cause its not a system used very favorably by Mustang owners mainly used by the the import crowd! (and like most people do they go with what everyone else is using and you cant blame them if its tried and trued). Iam here to tell you in my opinion I think power wise its a little lower then the wet kits? I have raced my car @ the track and have done many comparisons to other kits. I have a friend who has a NX kit and the exact same mods as I do except he is runnin slicks and I run BFG drag radials his best run was a 13.1 to my best 13.3 @ 5500ft above sea level (Denver Colorado very thin air) and trust me when i say Iam not the best driver out there! I dont even power shift! Iam sure @ lower elevations i would run well into the mid 12s But for the record i have dynoed my car and it has run a little lean the VCN comp. does control inj. pulse but your stock injectors are also limited! the worst that can happen is you dont always get a full shot. I ran my kit the way Venom perf. recomended stock platinum plugs not even a bottle warmer cause they said that the computer would adjust to the bottle pressure and so forth :cwm10: , my best run was a 13.77! 1 step colder plugs and bottle warmer and i busted a 13.39 my first run out! Another way to maximize your syst. hands down is definetly a Tune! Sorry about the long post guys Nitrous is one of those subjects that can be debated in many different forms.

 

Thanks for the help guys. While were on the subject, when is the best time to spray, like at what rpm and what gear?

 

What took you so long, MT#1?
:laughing7

 

The best time to spray is when you want the added hp. It is really no more simple than that. The worst time to spray is when your rpms are too low or when you have hit the rev limiter. generally speaking, spraying in 5th is not a great idea unless the rpms are way up and at that point you would really be hauling ***.

MOST nitrous systems are all activated the same way. You need to activate the system (ie turn it on), be at WOT, and be within a safe rpm range. To accomplish this, the nitrous solenoids are inter-locked so that all these conditions must be met before the system can spray.

Look at it this way:

1 - The car must be running
2 - The nitrous system must be electrically activated
3 - When a window switch is used, your rpms must be within the preset range which is normally something like 3,000 - 6,000 rpms. This prevents activation of nitrous if the rev limiter is reachedor if rpms are too low.
4 - You must be at WOT (wide open throttle).

If all these "switches" are grounded, then you will have spray. As soon as the WOT switch sees full voltage, bam....you got spray. In this way, the gas pedal becomes the spray switch.

Furthermore, you can add additional inter-locks too, such as a device which verifies fuel pressure or even nitrous pressure AND/OR a push-botton style activation switch like those seen in the F&F Movies. The bush button switches work the same way, except that you must have your pedal to the floor in order for the push button to work. This ensure spray ONLY at WOT.

The concept that I just described will work in all gears. If you don't want to spray in 1st, then you either have to use the push-button activation style, add a position switch to your shifter (for a 5 speed), or don't floor it when you launch.

The position switches are kind a cool. The way they work is that when you have the shifter in 1st, a contact is hit which in turn activates a relay and prevents power from reaching the solenoid. In this regards, the system will spray in all gears but 1st.

If you go with a Venom system, then there is an added inter-lock which prevents spray if you are runnng too lean and you don't really need a window switch.

On another note, would anyone be interested in setting up a nitrous seminar over the phone? We could use a conferance call center to host the call, but they can be kind of expensive. If anyonw knows how to do this in another, cheaper fashion, I would be happy to lead the discussion. We could schedule it in advance and have folks sign-up ahead of time. Call could last 30 - 60 minutes. This could work really well with about 5 - 6 people. Too many, and it becomes too difficult.

Also, I have been thinking about writing an extensive tech paper called "Nitrous 101" with all the basics about nitrous specific to mod motors.

 

Sounds interesting!

 

My timing right now is advanced. Do I need to worry about retarding it before running nitrous?

 

Yes! Do NOT advance timing with nitrous. You should actually retard timing by about 1 degree at a 100 shot. You may be able to get away with stock timing if the temp is cool out and you run high enough octane.

No matter what, you want to avoid detonation.

 

Hey "MTs#1customer" what has been your best ET @ your elevation with this system?

 

Yes you must retard it. Im doing some thinking on mine. There is a Steeda timing advance kit on the 97 stang i bought 2 weeks ago. So mine must be advanced.

I used to have a 250 horse 8 port fogger system on a 89 formula 350 firebird back in the early 90's. Use to have it kick in @ 3500rpms and you knew it!!!! I had a MSD ignition and a MSD retard **** under the dash. I wired in the retard switch to my Nitrous wide open throttle switch and it worked like a charm. I also had a bipass to use the retard all the time, depending on gas and temp out it was nice being able to advance or retard 8 degree's either way.

Im looking for something for my mustang to do the same. Any one know of any units. Seems the MSD 6al unit and retard wont work on the stang.

 

Speaking of octane, do you need to run a higher octane when using the nitrous? Higher than 87? Or is this all in the tune?

 

When you spray use the best pump gas possible, this is cheap insurance against detonation. Also I thought I read someone was spraying with platnium plugs This is a big mistake !!!! Plugs are also cheap insurance, drop 'em atleast one heat range with any amount of juice.

 

Definetly use high octane 91+ even a little octane booster for insurance.

 

octane booster does little ot nothing just buy premium gas and copper plugs and retard the timing if over a 100 shot to be safest.

 

Sorry, no times yet. Put it in in October...ran 3-4 bottles and put the car away in Dec for the winter. I won't have times until the Spring.

 

You have two options:

Steeda Timing Adjuster OR a various number of chips/tuners that are available on the market. I personally recomend for a nitrous application to use either an SCT programmer or an SCT 4 position chip so you can have separate programs for NA and nitrous.

 

Spike is right. MOST octane boost products only really add about .2 octane. The lables are very missleading. Copper plugs work better with nitrous because you get a better spark. Platinum plugs only offer the benefit of lasting longer.

 

also the reason for copper is they will melt sooner in a lean condition than platnium does, thats really why you should use copper, the fact they conduct electricty better is just a side effect.

 

Ive herd the same! but all I said is that its cheap insurance. 5.0 or MM&FF ran an article way back about Octane Boosters and I believe to have read that NOS's Octane booster was one of the best actually raising the level buy a point or so :dontknow: but I personally would run the highest I could find nothing less then 91.

 

Sam:

I have both 93 and 94 octane available in my area. I run Octane boost when running nitrous most of the time especially if the weather is hot. Not sure if it helps much, but I have never gotten knock or ping either.

 

Dustin...I had never heard that! That makes sense, though. Glad I use copper especially if that is true.

 

Word. I prefer NX myself because they rate thier jets at the wheels rather htan the motor, but that's just preference.

 

Trust me I do the same! especially where I live, the highest you can get here from a pump is 91 Octane but the track does sell 104 race gas!

 

also copper plugs have a tendancy to foul and burn off the electrode before major engine damage, it will melt away sooner than platinum, and possibly preventing a hole in your piston in the case of an overly lean condition.
I've seen it happen a few times.