I want the safest nitrous setup I can build for my car. Heres my idea......

I know i should have got the Venom kit, but I have the ZEX wet kit.

75 shot
1. Autolite 103 spark plugs
2. Diablosport predator with 2 degrees timing retard.
3. Accufab Plenum
4. Steeda cold air
5. walbro 255 fuel pump
6. Window switch activated before rev limiter
7. Snow performance Variable Boost Cooler (water/methanol injection)
8. Nitrous filter

I know its probably overkill for a 75 shot, but I dont have money for a new motor.
The nitrous is not direct port injected.
Any suggestions?

 

You left out a WOT switch and bottle warmer. The warmer will ensure consistancy...this is important to safety. I think your timing retard of 2 degrees is a bit much, but it would be safer. You will have drivability problems when not spraying if it is cold out. I did not see where you live, but one degree should be fine, but 2 would be safer, just might cost you more power than you want to loose. The plugs are a good choice....just be sure to gap them at 35.

And you could add one of those silly *** a/f meters. Everyone makes fun of them, but they do work. As you drive the car while n/a, you will get a sense of how the meter looks. Then, when you spray, you will then know if you are running more or less lean. It is not an exact science, but will give you an indication of your tune relative to baseline.

Also, a good idea to get on a dyno to verify the a/f. Other than that, I think you got everything.

One more thing, I know by "safe" you are referring to the motor. But things like having the bottle properly secured in the trunk is also a real personal safety issue.


Good luck. Nitrous rocks!

 

BTW, I am really comfortable with nitrous. Feel free to ask any question.

 

Only hold up I see is the fuel pump. Ive heard that the Walbro fuel pumps suck and dont work for the returnless fuel system our cars have. Maybe an SVT focus pump would be better...

 

Yeah...good pick. But, I honestly think your stock fuel pump is fine with the 75.

 

Yea I think it would be too as long as it still is working fine. If it ever goes out though, just throw a focus one in there (SVT) as it isnt much more I dont think. Oh and I dont think you need the meth injection either, as you have to run a lot of timing to get it to actually do something. Timing plus nitrous equals no no.

 

I do plan on getting a bottle warmer, but the ZEX kit I have is suppose to regulate how much fuel is sprayed relative to how much pressure is in the bottle. The only bad thing about having a cold bottle is that I wont make as much power when spraying the nitrous. The kit is also wired up to the throttle position sensor and the brain of the system only activates at WOT.

How will the car act if I retard the timing 2 degrees? Will it try to stall out?
Maybe Ill just retard it 1 degree.

How can I tell if my fuel pump is still pumping like it was when the car was new? My car has 45,000 miles on it , but I run it hard alot.

Oh I live in Nashville, Tennessee so it does get cold and rainy here in the winters. I havent driven the car much lately.

 

You might have some cold start problems that could be pretty challenging with plugs that are two steps colder than stock. You could simply try them and see how they work for you. You could go with one step in the winter and two step colder in the summer if you want.

As far as retarding the timing by two degrees, it will not stall at all and will drive fine, just feel under powered when n/a. You will also loose a few ponies when spraying as compared to only one degree, but it is probably not too much. I retard my timing by 1 and I can tell you the difference is quite noticable when driving n/a as compared to my 4 degree advance tune.

You car will feel like apig with two degrees taken out of it. I spray all the time with my 100 shot with stock timing just as long as it is not too hot outside. Timing, plugs, etc... there is always a trade-off.

If you are getting a SCT device like a chip that allows for multiple tunes, I would say go the 2 degrees of retard if you want if that makes you feel better. That way it will be easier to switch back and forth. But, if you have to drive on that tune all the time, too much retard and you will not be too happy.

 

You are way over doing the saftey stuff, thats all i am gonna add.

 

...its better to have and not need than to need and not have anything left but a 350 pound paper weight of an engine, thats all i am gonna say.

 

oh brother.

If hes that scared honestly, i would'nt use it if i was him.

Me i dont fear the Bottle, 150 wet through my truck's 4.6 and a 150 wet through the stang. Game 4.6 motor.

Ps my local nitrous fill place loves me and my room mate.

 

Sorry to ***** your thread, But Im new to nitrous as well. I was thinking about going NX, but I like that Venom kit. I noticed it comes with a computer module to regulate the fuel and such, correct? I have a diablo predator now and it bumps my timing, but when I turn on the nitrous will the venom computer override the predator settings and retard the timinig? Sorry, Im a noob to N2O.

 

No! The computer is used for monitoring and adding fuel. You need to retard the timing separately either with a chip/programmer/or a timing adjuster.

There is no nitrous system that I know of that will retard the timing. I fyou had the Diablo, one thing you could do would be to remove the tune while spraying and just use stock settings.

 

or just retard the timing a bit.

 

The main thing you forgot from your list ??? GOOD GAS!!! Never spray on less than the bast pump gas available.Little bit of an overkill for a 75 or 100 shot. Id ditch the methanol injection as it would make tuning even more complicated. Nitrous will lower your inlet temps all you need. I had a chip burned for my car before I had nitrous(
N/A tune) and I have sprayed both a 75 and 100 wet shot with the chip and with no problems. I run only 93 octane and when Im using 100 shot some octane boost. Colder plugs are a must, and a bottle heater, window switch and purge would be a good idea.