I'm running a Zex 125 wet shot, with a [U]real[U]conservative tune and gained 111hp and 147tq. I think the Zex kit is a good safe kit. I could get more out of it if I wanted, but it's my daily driver and I can't afford to have any mishaps. I've also heard good things about the NX kits too. I believe with the right safety features(cooler plugs, window switch, proper tune) any of the name brands are fine for every now and then street use at 125 shot or under. Anything above that and/or serious strip use, some brands may be better than others. As for wet or dry. They both have their pros and cons. Only difference in performance I can tell, is it seems the wet kits have a harder initial hit. Just my .02.

nos
 

i dont think my stock engine can handle the nos

small
 

maybe only a small shot. wat do u think?

stock 4.6L's can and do handle reasonable shots of juice every day. there's good times and bad times to use it. You should be able to figure out what those are. a 50-75hp dry shot is a great way to wake it up on the freeway without needing oodles of supporting mods or the need to go with a wet kit. Anything above 75-80hp should be a wet kit IMO.

I was never a Nitrous fan but i can't say i'm not curious. Anyone have any input on this kit?
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_46/images/82023.gif

I'd get a tune from Brenspeed for it. Any input?

with a 125 wet kit i got 377hp and 497trq which was 129 hp and 191trq over stock internals with bolt-ons of course:D

If you A/F is solid, those are some pretty safe numbers.

damn

??

so the venom vcn1000 kit at hundred shot with stock internals colder plugs and a handheld tune you should be fine am i right because a dyno tune is completely out of the question and maybe a blonde question but whats a window switch:confused:

Do not run the venom kit. Get something else like Compucar,NOS,NX,Dynotune,nitrous works etc... wet kit. You can rock a 100-125shot max without a tune all the time with a fuel pump swap to be safe.

Shouldn't I be worried about the a/f? With the venom set up it automatically shuts down if it becomes to lean, nothing to worry about.

i really doubt you'd run lean on a 100 shot..

The ZEX kit just shuts OFF if your a/f gets screwed up, it never corrects it, which means you'd still need to dyno it anyways.

If you're concerned with a/f buy a a/f guage from autometer as well..

You can also check your plugs to see if you are running rich or lean..its preferred you do this RIGHT AFTER A NITROUS PASS..

The problem with venom is that its a dry kit and it relies to much on the stock fuel system to add the fuel, and we already have one or two members who blew motors with that kit. Trust me its an overpriced shit. Go with a regular wet kit like any of the ones listed above or others that I'm sure I forgot about. They jet these kits really rich from the nitrous companies because they dont want you to toss your motor.

sorry i was talking about venom kits..not zex's... zex does have the little controller as well too iirc..

What about a purpose built fuel system with a dry nitrous system?
Wouldnt that take care of the weak link?

How can you do that when a dry kit rely's on the injectors and fuel system to feed the fuel and the motor. Only way a separate fuel system works is with a wet kit.

I'm just talking about putting bigger injectors and a bigger fuel pump. If nothing more than a focus pump and 30lb injectors, what else would be wrong with a dry kit?

You can do that, but then your for sure going to need a tune etc.. When you could just do a wet kit and run it with stock fuel system up to a 100shot and stock tune all you would need is colder spark plugs. Wet is the way to go basically. Though I would toss in a better fuel pump regardless.

How does nitrous work with a stick shift?

I'm just playing the devil's advocate here, with a tune, what else would be a issue is going with a bigger dry shot? (shortblock integrity aside)

Nitrous normally works with two switches on a manual...Wide open throttle switch and a window switch (i think)

So it cuts off during shifts?

Injectors, fuel pump, colder plugs 1 or 2 steps colder depending on size, and a good tune for the n/a side to turn those over sized injectors down so they work well when not spraying, and then another good tune to get them to dump fuel when you spray.

You really have two ways to go with this. One is you use a window switch which lets you select the window or rpm rang when the nitrous would turn on/off at. This of course is used with the WOT switch so its only at WOT.

The other way is without one and you simply lift off the thorttle when you shift, and don't go to WOT until the rpms are high enough with the kit armed so you dont spray the nitrous to low in the rpm rang.

Thanks Spike!

in the future im getting a nitrous kit from ZEX from AM with all the important safety stuff, but dont plan on using it too often as i never really get to see a track. do you have a site of where to get the colder plugs? i need to add them to my list of buys :)

Auto parts store will carry them. NGK TR6

I also run NGK TR6 plugs part number 4177 at any parts store that carries NGK.

NX Kit
 

I am running the NX Express Plate system for the 4.6 3v. I have installed several of these kits on friends and co-club members cars. I think this is the best made kit out there. It is Pricey ($800 plus) then all the saftey stuff comes in a kit (GenX 2) for another $250 I am running a tune from Delta Force, Brisk Racing Plugs (2 ranges colder), MSD Digital window switch (a real classy piece) another $100. I am running the 150 shot (NX says they flow test their systems to RWH) so a 150 shot is a true rwh increase, not sure anyone else does. In any event I have had the system for 2 years and have had no problems. One saftey precaution that I can recommend is that the traction control is turned off, if not the computer takes out fuel and timing and you will have problems as I experienced once and only once (you don't need to tell me twice). Great kit, real quality and great tech support if you need it. Expensive yes but so are blown motors due to cheap stuff.

back from the dead.

you can order them right from zex...their plugs for their system....sounds logical to me

it cut off once the engine isnt at wot anymore...then re engages when it is

Enough with the dead thread resurections

Hey man, if he ain't found no plugs in a year and a half then he probable don't need them that bad.

Come out of the "morque" and join the living.

There’s no doubt about it, the cheapest way for your car to make big horsepower gains is to add a Nitrous Oxide System. N20, which is comprised of two parts Nitrogen and one part Oxygen, is not all it takes to add this power, which is why many companies sell Nitrous Kits which are complete system to add the desired amount of horsepower to your Muscle Car.

hi..guys,what you people have shared is great is really important to us to know...thanks..I got really depth knowledge about Nitrous and beneficial if handled smartly.

it is a total informative and i am getting the great help going right with the same .. obviously there are safety concerns first to sort out why i am careful towards its full implementation

Original NOS systems should be fitted always. I have read, cheap quality ones tend to burst posing serious threat to both the life of car and the passengers.

why the same is always suggested that be packed with the safety measures while you are dealing with the hardcore machines .. and you must pay heed on the saying for the most good and joy out of your every ride


Tevida

pretty informative and have gone thorough through the read .. quite commonly it has turned out to me with loads of facts .. appreciate the efforts





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