Alright, I bought a 1999 GT a few weeks ago and after getting some help troubleshooting a few things that popped up, the car seems solid. So I am going to start building it.

I decided I want to go forced induction, so I am asking the mustang community help on this...

Right now I feel like...

Kenne Bell 2.1L @ 10psi (intercooled)
Kenne Bell boost-a-spark
Kenne Bell 90mm MAF
Kenne Bell 75mm Throttle Body w/ intake tubing
Kenne Bell ECU chip
Patriot Stage 3 Cyl. Heads w/ Comp. XE274H Cams
ARP Head studs
8.5/8.0:1 Forged Pistons (undecided)
Manly Connecting Rods (4340-H)
Lightweight/Knife Edged Crank (Undecided)

I am looking for the magical 500rwhp mark, anyone see a problem in hitting it with this setup? Other than the fact that I will probably need to run a little more boost?

Any constructive criticism is welcomed.

 

I would go with a different chip because unless your near KB no one is going to be able to tune it for you on a dyno. You need to go with diablo,SCT, sniper whatever your local tuner uses so you can get a solid dyno tune on it. The Maf i wouldnt use theirs either its more then likely just a 90mm Lightning maf anyhow (cant say for sure without seeing it). And a stock pump with BAP isnt gonna support 500rwhp. Your gonna need a pump upgrade.

 

I can do the pump upgrade, will have to "find" a tuner over here though for an American car (im in Germany).

Its the original reason that I was going to get the KB chip, since it should at least make the car streetable for now.

If it leans out too much, ill just put on the 8-9psi pullies.

The KB chip & MAF come with the S/C so... no real hurt there, unless the engine explodes

On the subject of my last post, know any good 8:1 or 8.5:1 pistons?

 

This has been my outlook on the subject for some time now. I too want to hit 500 with a KB 2.1L, but after reading a lot of what the guys at KB have to say, it's going to be tough. Take a look at the KB section over on ModularFords, because this topic actually comes up somewhat often. 500 (or less) is the absolute maximum amount of power that the 2.1 can support, simply because of the style of inlet that the supercharger has (as apposed to the larger and longer oval shaped inlet on the old 2.2, 2.4 and newer 2.6 and 2.8). The smaller inlet on the 2.1 can only flow so much air, it's that simple. I believe that it was James@KB who said that a better flowing engine (better heads, cam, and lower compression) will actually reach the maximum airflow of the 2.1 sooner than a stock 4.6 2v would. This makes sense. The problem that you come up with is that lowering the compression has its good and its bad. With no other changes you will make less power (with 8:1 against say 9.5:1), however the engine will handle more boost which will more than make up for that initial power loss. Good right? Well, I'm pretty sure that the old 1.7 and newer 2.1 were designed so that whatever pulley size would give a stock engine (by that I mean stock heads, cam and compression) 14psi, actually will be spinning the blower at it's maximum safe RPM. This means that you can't crank up the boost with a smaller pulley than the "stock 14psi" one (not sure what the actual size is), and therefore cannot take advantage of the lowered compression.

Ok, so I'm by no means a guru, but like I said I've been wanting a 500whp 2.1L GT for a long time now, and have been constantly lurking various boards and taking in as much as I can. Over the past few years, what I stated above is what I've learned.

Now, I'm not saying it's impossible. My plan will be (excluding the fuel aspect, others probably have more knowledge than me about that):

Built short block with stock compression
KB 2.1 with 14psi pulley
stock heads
stage 1 (or custom) blower cam (originally I was thinking VT, but I guess not anymore), but only if the stock cam doesn't get me to 500

Unfortunately 500rwhp may be just out of reach for the 2.1L, but I have seen it done a few times before. Keep in mind though, every person that I've seen do it has been running at 14psi, which with the 2.1L means some pretty warm air. An aftermarket head exchanger (other than KB's) would probably be a good idea.

 

Use a Fluidyne heat exchanger. You can find them at lethalperformance.com

 

shaggy hit it right on...this is the same info that i researched from the KB cult. the intake on the 2.1 is a huge restriction in the upper boost levels and will make it hard to make that much power with it. no matter how well your motor/heads flow...8.5:1 compression would probably hurt part throttle driving. keep it at stock compression with forged goods.

seriously if your going to build a badass motor why waste it by only putting a 2.1 on just go ahead and opt for a 2.6. beg a tuner to give you a base tune from a similar build prolly cost around 400 for this but you will be able to tweak it with the SCT or whatever program the tuner uses. more money yes but your F'd when it comes to tuners in germany. there is a dude near stuggart that tunes with SCT but i wouldnt let him tune my car plus he charges a ridiculous rate.

your in germany who is this not too many 2 valves running around with poweradders that i dont know about. whats your s/n on mighty?

if you dont know than here is some FYI justin from VMP is coming here next month. also tony from HP in florida is coming here sometime in may/june time frame. we need 5 more cars to make it worth tony's time come out here.

 

I was looking at the 2.6 and honestly the only reason I wasn't going to use it was specifically that I couldn't find a tuner in Germany.

The 2.1 is a hell of a lot more common, so its easier to find support.

BTW, where are you in Germany? I am in Mannheim. Generally I drive an old M3 at Hockenheim, the SN95 was a recent purchase.

 

if you put a 2.1 on top of a built motor than you will still need a custom tune. if you keep your motor stock then there isnt any problem with running the KB tune at 9 psi. you will be right at 400hp.

im down in k-town at ramstein/volgeweh area.

 

I always feel like I am slacking if I *just* put on a S/C.

That, and ill feel like a retard when a car w/ 124k on the odo. blows up from the stress.

 

I think somewhere else on this forum there is a link to a place where you can buy the equipment and software to burn your own chips. That might be a good investment. I think ill go try and dig that thread up.

 

SCT makes the pro race package. i think its around 300-400 dollars without the hand held tuner. pro race package is basically software for you to tune your own car. like i said above beg a tuner to get you a base tune from similar builds. i think tony from HP will help but it will cost some coin and you will have to provide data logs so he can make the correct adjustments. yes, tuning that way is a real pain in the *** but if you want a safe 500-550 pump gas mustang than thats the only way to do it in germany.

if my motor pops this summer than im getting a built long block upping the boost and will get help from a tuner to keep my car safe and still have 500-510 hp to the wheels without having to strap the car to the dyno.

 

If your having a tuff time over there getting tuned like they said the pro racer package might be just what you need. You will have to learn alot about how to use it etc.. but they have good support forums and i think for someone in your shoes it might be the way to go. I would like they said get a base tune from someone who has handled this type of setup before and work off of that. Or you can look at kits like the ones from modular power house that come with tunes. I dont know what they offer in the KB units and tunes. I know they do pre made tunes for vortec 2v cars.