As read above. I need help.

My deal that I got seems to be falling through before my eyes.

I've got a bottle, my braided line (the long *** one) and the two bottle brackets.

Now, I knew I wasn't getting the solenoids, so I need those, spike has cleared up what I can use.

As well as the spark plugs.

He had no bottle warmer, and ONE switch for the purge/fire.

I want multiple switches for that.

So..from what I see is I need..

Solenoids
Fogger
Switches
Lines
Bottle guage (more guages i know.)
Purge system


If I'm missing something, please list. I'm sure I am.

Also, whats the difference between 2AN 4AN 6AN.

 

You forgot the big fat cup of HELL YEAH

lol

an2, 4, 6, that is just the size of the connectors i believe

 

k. (Some of this stuff I will be getting from him. One way or another..an *** beating may ensue.)

 

Your going to need a fuel and nitrous solenoids. Your are going to need a single fogger nozzle like you have listed. You dont have to have a purge or heater those are extras. The purge unless you bracket race really isnt needed at all. The heater is a worthwhile upgrade as it keep the bottle pressure at the optimal temp which means more power and i would recomend getting one. I got one from compucar for $45 off ebay. Your going to need 3 lines one for the line from the fuel rail to the fuel noid and then noid to nozzle. Then one from nitrous noid to nozzle.

Also you are going to need the adaptor for Ford efi cars so you can pull fuel from the sharder valve off the fuel rail, you can get that here:
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=246

The gauge on the bottle is a must and you can get them off ebay cheap. This way you can keep on eye on bottle pressure so you dont go to low or over heat it and make the psi to high.

You really only need the master arming switch and then for the heater if you get one, then you need one for that. Radio shack has you covered on switches.

 

What is the brand of the nitrous system? I would recommend going with a zex solenoid, as it is both a fuel and nitrous pack, instead of one for fuel and one for nitrous. Also, a window switch should be at the very top of your list if your car is a manual. This will prevent you from over reving and spaying just nitrous in the engine. There are four wires on the window switch from zex. 1 will go the the solenoid for power(red), 1 will be grounded(black), 1 will go to the throttle possition sensor(white), and 1 will go to any fuel injector(green). Both of these can be found on ebay for about $150 or so a peice.

Also, dont forget the jets, the bottle brackes, nitrous feed line (bottle to solenoid), fuel feed line (fuel rail to solenoid), 2 lines from solenoid to intake nozzle (wet set up), and the adaptor for the fuel rail (as said above).

As for a purge system, ebay has many for about $100- $150. My opinion, dont buy it. I bought one and i use more nitrous purging then i do spraying. Purging uses a lot of nitrous and unless your car is set up for the track it does nearly nothing to help you.

2, 4, 6 ans are just the sizes of the line fittings. My nitrous set up uses 6ans for the nitrous and fuel feed lines to the solenoid and 4 ans for the lines from the solenoid to the intake nozzle.

Hope this helps.

 

Ya I have like a ..hose that'll go from the trunk of my car to the engine.

So I'm assuming thats bottle to.. idk what

NX Bottle, with both brackets.

 

Ok..update..

I got ahold of my buddy..

Turns out, he got a call into work yesturday to do an emergency patch up in the oilfields. (Hes a welder)

Although I'm still missing the solenoids

I now have everything except for the warmer, and solenoids. Oh and the fogger.

And Ill still go ahead and buy those. No big deal.

I don't really know about a WOT switch because..I'm an auto..i don't know if I floor it if it will jump up to the proper RPMS for me to be injecting nitrous, so i'm going with a manual switch.

The heater I WILL be buying. 100% positive, I want to be correct on it.

He was able to purge his system and spray with one button. So I'll have a purge as well.

 

Are the final hopes for this nitrous project to make your car fast enough for the green paint to fly off so you can make it white?




lol

 

my green paint is a little darker then baby **** green. Atleast its different.

 

Hehe, what color is it exactly? DHG ?

 

Something along those lines.

It'll look nice with those black fr500s that i'm getting when taxes come back

Lowered..and a chin spoiler

 

Hmm, all of that sounds familiar.. lol

 

YOu have the long 14-18' line that runs from the bottle to the back of the nitrous noid. After that you need a line to run from the front of the nitrous noid to the fogger nozzle and then the fuel rail fitting i posted before and then a line from that to the back of the fuel noid and then a line from the front of the fuel noid to the fogger nozzle.

A WOT switch isnt an extra its a must have item and comes with every kit for a reason. It keeps you from spraying unless the car is at WOT. This way you floor it and the WOT clicks on and then when you flip the master arming switch when the engine is over 3k rpms you are now spraying that 75 shot. Once your done lift off the throttle and nitrous turns off. Its used for a reason.

 

Ohhh I see now

 

A WOT switch comes with most solenoids... It means that nitrous will fire ONLY at wide open throttle when the system is armed.
A window switch ONLY fires at wide open fire AND in the RPM band of your choise (3,000- 5,800). make sure you always set the top RPM LOWER than your redline.