Well I put a new shifter on with a button on it for my nitrous and the fuel silonoid I think it stuck on. To make a long story short there was a big back fire and now there is a big blown out piece of the intake manafold so I had my car towed. Has anyone else done this and do you think it is gona be just the manafold?

 

most of the time it is just an intake but I have seen it go deeper and farther.
new intakes run @$250.00 but also check your air filter and MAF for damage and check the spark plugs for signs of internal damage

also, it not the best thing to-do spraying a "wet" system thru a plastic intake and I'll bet your still running a PCV valve too.

 

whats wrong with having a PCV valve? I have a s-trim on mine, and its got the stock PCV valve on it.hould I change it for something different?

 

Ahhh I kinda see where he's going with this......let me edumacate you

The PCV valve has a safety feature its behavior in the event of a backfire. If your car backfires in the manifold, the pressure makes the spring close the valve completely. With the valve closed, there is no chance that the flame can move into the crankcase and cause an explosion.

I think he meaning replace it with a new one i've never heard of a aftermarket PCV valve. The stock one may fail and thats why motor itself goes pop.

But Randy I just re-read your post you make it sound like a bad thing..........and dont we need the PCV valve because it regulates the the vapor and fuel mixture? Not to mention the efficiency....miles per gallon wise?

 

no, not quite. having PCV on a Nytrous car is a no-no because (and this can apply to blower/turbo cars as well) durring everyday street driving the PCV valve is depositing crankcase vapor in the intake which builds up into a black oily sludge in the lower plenum, anyone who has done a plenum or intake swap has seen this oily mess. now what happens when you spray your car wth a "wet" Nytrous system is the fuel washes off all that oily sludge into the intake, mixxes wth your "good fuel" deluting it, then past the intake valves and into the combustion chamber. now your fuel is loaded wth oil and it lowers the octane of the incomming fuel charge. this leads to detonation issues. the same thing can happen to blower or turbo cars under high boost as that oily sludge is blown out of the intake and mixxes wth the fuel, thus causing octane problems.

 

For some reason, vortech says the 04 GTs need a different pcv valve to use their kit. Why is that? They include the different pcv valve in the kit. I havent been boosting it yet, but should I swap for a vortech pcv? Sorry dont wanna jack the thread

 

don't know, unless it has something to-do wth '03 and 04 using a "heated" PCV valve. I do know some guys that will use the 03/04 Cobra PCV valves as there more blower frendly. I still say delete it and either add and E-Vac system or some sort of an oil seperatoe system. blowing crankcase vapors back into a engine wtha P/A is NG for performance

 

Well do you suggest that I vent the crank case to the air and plug the intake runner?

 

You can either get a oil separator, or use breather valves inplace of the PCV tube. Only thing with the breather valves is it will get oil in your engine bay. Randy has done it another way which Ill let him explain. Heres a good thread about it, I HIGLY suggest reading it. Itll probably answer a lot of your questions, http://forums.modulardepot.com/showt...=oil+separator

 

So then a good ole ebay oil catch can would work just fine right?

 

Great to read up on this....blowing my intake or getting oil in my motor is last on my mind...I think i'm going to go down the route of a oil catch. I think deleting the PCV may cause some hell and I dont feel like going into the motor everyday to clean oil off my motor

 

I may put breather filters on my valve covers tomorrow....

 

i used a dual inlet single outlet catch can with breather on top. got it from jegs for 45bucks. 2 hoses from the valve covers to the can, then theres one hose draining out of the can which has a switch to lock and unlock it

 

If you delete the system then you need to totally delete it. I discussed with with Ed when I was down at Steen last time. So you need a filter on both covers, plug the intake where the hoes from the pass. side cover would go, then plug the hole in the inlet tube. If you just do 1 filter then itll cause problems.

 

Is Dom's way a safe alternative

 

I just ordered an 03/04 cobra PCV valve today from my work. Store cost is $7, but ill get mine for like $4. Its unheated, thats why its so cheap. Its a ford motorcraft valve. If I dont hook up the PCV valve heater wire, what will happen? I hate having a wire thats not hooked up to something....

 

Heres another way to do it, http://www.modularpowerhouse.com/for...ad.php?t=38889 I still want to know what that little sensor is on the pass. side cover.

 

Where did he route it............Does he have a oil catch down there? He also used a rubber stopper on the inlet.
Good design but I wanna know where his oil is going

 

The "sensor" you are referring to is actually a heater thats bulit in to the PCV valve. Its a heated PCV valve. Costs over $30 bucks for it. The cobra PCV is unheated and costs around $7.

I installed a cobra PCV valve AND an oil catch can onto mine. For some reason, I am seeing a lil more vaccum now than before. The gauge showed 15 inches before and now its more like 17....

 

Yep, its just going to a catch can which is out of sight behind the front bumper.

So if you delete the system then you need to get the unheater one for $7? Do you have any pictures of your set up?

 

If you delete the system any affect on gas milage? Or any changes I should be aware of I like that setup

 

If you delete the PCV system you will just clean up the engine compartment and loose the vaccum the egine gets from that. There is no reason ot get rid of it. I would just do the catch can like 03mustangt he has a nice setup. ther vaccum from the PCV system is a good thing to have as it helps promote ring seal etc... just add a oil seporator and call it a day.

 

Good deal. Ther idea its lowering my octane everytime I spray I do not like. Why havent you done this Dustin?

 

well if you have alot of carbon and sludge in your intake,yeah when you spray the fuel will clean that off and bring it into the cyclinder. But if you take care of your car and clean it. Thats really not a problem. I clean the intake and plenum every 2 oil changes so about every 10k miles i clean that up. Just spray some TB cleaner in the Tb and plenum area run the car then use some seafoam and that cleans the oil deposits out of the intake that get sucked up. I had the PCV run into a oil seporated on the f150 just didnt do it to the stang yet. Maybe one day when i am bored i will but if you keep it clean its not a problem.

 

The thing I dont understand is if you get the oil separator put in the hose going from the pass. side hose to the intake then you still have the other hose going from the drivers side cover to the inlet tube. So doesnt oil go through there too? Id think it would make more sence to get two separators, one for each hose.

 

Yeha you would still get oil. Thats why alot of guys run them together and then have it go to oil seporator then to the plenum. And just block off the unused vaccum source thats not being used. You can get cheap off brand oil seporators for as little as 9bucks at home depot.

 

Then Ill probably just run two, one in each hose. Ive already got one from jegs which are pretty cheap. At least compared to Steeda's.

 

Yeah I need to clean my intake next oil change then i'll add the oil separator. I know my intake is really crapped up right now remember when my tranny blew and I was over revving above 3000 rpms alot and sometimes higher. I just know the next sea foam cleaning is going to be gnarly.

 

The steeda is nice and all, but its very pricey.

 

So should I just do the drivers side. Or should I route both into the separator? And how do I go about do that if I do. Isn't the majority of the oil coiming out out of the drivers side?