Crack in the Inlet tube
#1
05-31-2006, 02:25 PM
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ecorse, Michigan
Posts: 3,970
Crack in the Inlet tube
I just got off the phone with Livernois Motorsport and they said that my inlet pipe has a crack in it. I know exactly where the crack is and didnt think it would be that much of a problem. The crack/split is right at the head unit where the clamps are. How much can this actually effect the air flow and is it as serious as they are making it out to be? I think i shoud just get a power pipe rather than pay 130 bucks for a plastic replacement from Procharger. I really didnt want to get a power pipe because i am pushing the hp as it is. Should is just tell them to put it back on and get my car or should i let them replace it with another plastic tube from Procharger. :bash:
#8
06-02-2006, 02:55 PM
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ecorse, Michigan
Posts: 3,970
Got the car back today and i must admit that its running 100 % better. I will try to get some video over the weekend. I didnt do the power pipe.
#9
06-02-2006, 03:00 PM
why did you even ask, lol
Everyone said power pipe and you just got the replacement, that's kinda funny. lol
Everyone said power pipe and you just got the replacement, that's kinda funny. lol
#10
06-02-2006, 03:10 PM
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ecorse, Michigan
Posts: 3,970
Originally Posted by whitethunder46
why did you even ask, lol
Everyone said power pipe and you just got the replacement, that's kinda funny. lol
Everyone said power pipe and you just got the replacement, that's kinda funny. lol
I didnt do neither one. I had them tape it up. They charged me an arm and a leg for the little bit of work they did. I could get a power pipe later and put it on myself. Plus i would need another tune. You talking 450 to the 350 they already charged me. Thats not even including the installation on the ppipe.
#11
06-02-2006, 04:06 PM
jus put some JB-weld on it, smooth it out and it will be just fine lol. I've seen a motor that threw a rod through the side of the block put back together with it and the motor still runs just fine to this day boosted making 300+ hp.
#12
06-02-2006, 07:39 PM
Ok, I know this will cause some contraversy, but I am good at that, so here goes.
When you have a blower, your motor is not so much limited to hp, but rather to boost. Thusly, you should max out your setup based on boost rather then hp. On a stock motor, 10 lbs is about the max safe level. The idea is that you run 10 lbs of boost, set your a/f where you want it (safe tune) and live with the power production that you get.
Anything that you can do to improve the efficiency of your exhaust or your intake will make your setup more efficient. As such, you will get more hp at teh same level of boost. As you increase efficiency, you are really not putting more hp on the block, just getting more of it to the tires.
As such, I say get the power pipe. However, the gains may not be worth the added cost of a tune.
Over the winter, I plan on adding ported heads, blower cams, and LT's. With my current tune (conservative), I am at about 380 hp at 9-10 lbs of boost. Those listed mods should be good for another 30 - 40 hp, but still running the same boost levels.
Keep in mind, that I am no expert, but this is how it was explained to me by someone I trust and it makes sense. I hope I was listening correctly.
When you have a blower, your motor is not so much limited to hp, but rather to boost. Thusly, you should max out your setup based on boost rather then hp. On a stock motor, 10 lbs is about the max safe level. The idea is that you run 10 lbs of boost, set your a/f where you want it (safe tune) and live with the power production that you get.
Anything that you can do to improve the efficiency of your exhaust or your intake will make your setup more efficient. As such, you will get more hp at teh same level of boost. As you increase efficiency, you are really not putting more hp on the block, just getting more of it to the tires.
As such, I say get the power pipe. However, the gains may not be worth the added cost of a tune.
Over the winter, I plan on adding ported heads, blower cams, and LT's. With my current tune (conservative), I am at about 380 hp at 9-10 lbs of boost. Those listed mods should be good for another 30 - 40 hp, but still running the same boost levels.
Keep in mind, that I am no expert, but this is how it was explained to me by someone I trust and it makes sense. I hope I was listening correctly.
#13
06-02-2006, 08:11 PM
the whole point of a power pipe is that it adds another 1-2psi of boost. Thus if if you have a 3.33 pulley making 10PSI, add a power pipe you may now be making 12PSI.
Therefore a powerpipe may not be the best thing if your already at 9-10psi of boost?
This is what I've been taught. You are right about the HP and boost levels, and adding other mods will bring the HP to the wheels, but the power pipe is a direct result of added boost in the engine.
Therefore a powerpipe may not be the best thing if your already at 9-10psi of boost?
This is what I've been taught. You are right about the HP and boost levels, and adding other mods will bring the HP to the wheels, but the power pipe is a direct result of added boost in the engine.
#14
06-02-2006, 09:14 PM
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ecorse, Michigan
Posts: 3,970
Originally Posted by MT's#1Customer!
Ok, I know this will cause some contraversy, but I am good at that, so here goes.
When you have a blower, your motor is not so much limited to hp, but rather to boost. Thusly, you should max out your setup based on boost rather then hp. On a stock motor, 10 lbs is about the max safe level. The idea is that you run 10 lbs of boost, set your a/f where you want it (safe tune) and live with the power production that you get.
Anything that you can do to improve the efficiency of your exhaust or your intake will make your setup more efficient. As such, you will get more hp at teh same level of boost. As you increase efficiency, you are really not putting more hp on the block, just getting more of it to the tires.
As such, I say get the power pipe. However, the gains may not be worth the added cost of a tune.
Over the winter, I plan on adding ported heads, blower cams, and LT's. With my current tune (conservative), I am at about 380 hp at 9-10 lbs of boost. Those listed mods should be good for another 30 - 40 hp, but still running the same boost levels.
Keep in mind, that I am no expert, but this is how it was explained to me by someone I trust and it makes sense. I hope I was listening correctly.
When you have a blower, your motor is not so much limited to hp, but rather to boost. Thusly, you should max out your setup based on boost rather then hp. On a stock motor, 10 lbs is about the max safe level. The idea is that you run 10 lbs of boost, set your a/f where you want it (safe tune) and live with the power production that you get.
Anything that you can do to improve the efficiency of your exhaust or your intake will make your setup more efficient. As such, you will get more hp at teh same level of boost. As you increase efficiency, you are really not putting more hp on the block, just getting more of it to the tires.
As such, I say get the power pipe. However, the gains may not be worth the added cost of a tune.
Over the winter, I plan on adding ported heads, blower cams, and LT's. With my current tune (conservative), I am at about 380 hp at 9-10 lbs of boost. Those listed mods should be good for another 30 - 40 hp, but still running the same boost levels.
Keep in mind, that I am no expert, but this is how it was explained to me by someone I trust and it makes sense. I hope I was listening correctly.
I also plan on doing LT's and a 3in exhaust set up.
#15
06-06-2006, 09:45 PM
Im still wondering
Im not so sure, my shop says - 400 rwhp is it regaurdless of boost, bc the rods are max rated at 450 hp - so pretty much anything past 400 at the rear is only a matter of time. I know this guys knows his stuff bc hes personallly installed over 400 prochargers. I'm not trying to argue here - but do you agree with the 450 hp limit?
#16
06-07-2006, 09:11 AM
my tuner has a few procharge cars running around with much more than 400rwhp. it all in the tune and how you drive it. you could have only 350 rwhp but you beat on it all the time and maybe get a bad tank of gas. what do you think will happen? look at foncarelli, 390 at the wheels through an auto. what do you think it would be if it was a stick? bet his motor will last a while.
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