Thanks lol. It's really not as bad as I was expecting as far as bumps actually. I've rode in/drove in much much worse. I love the handling and the look, comfort wasn't a top priority for me.

 

Yeah with the SFCs and the dampers on a softer setting, it rides like stock (close), or as good as any car. My ride harshness has gone up quite a bit lately due to some of the new mods, alot more is transfered through stiffer bushings and parts that don't flex. I can still stand the 170 mile trip to school though.

 

Damn that's a long *** drive.

When I took my car in to have the alingment done the guy said my bushings were wore out or something, because it makes some weird sound, sqeaky sound. Are they expensive and hard to replace?

 

Thanks man. I love setup. Thanks again for steering me towards the Illuminas, there perfect for me. The ride is so solid and responsive now, I love it. I decided on the HTRIII mainly dude to tread rate. 300 compared to the 160 that the HTRI has! Like the tires so far.

What would be the benefit of the steering rack bushings? LCA (I know the aftermarket ones are adjustable, but why would I need to adjust them)? I know I need some new balljoints because the rubber boot on the stocks are torn up and they aren't greasable. Everyone gets the Steeda x2 rather than getting a another stock set, are they really worth the $100? Also did you have to lower your spindles at all? My tie rods look pretty stressed right now and are bowed up, I don't wan't to bend them!

 

Looks waaaaay better man, now you're getting it done. Haha

 

That squeaky sound might be your ball joints going out. Might wanna get them looked at.
Happened to my car, and it made this terrible ******* sqeaking noise forever, and then I let a friend of mine drive it, so I could drive his GT, and before he got out of the parking lot, my ball joint broke, and my car had this really cool lowered look to the front right side, hahaha. And the gt I drove was a 98, and it was shitty cause something was causing him to lose all sorts of power. But yeah, I think it cost me somewhere around 200 bucks...maybe 300. And I would suggest doing it ASAP so it doesnt break while your driving. That would be bad news bears.

 

you need the x2's because your steering gemoetry is off. the bigger balljoints will put your tie rods back in there stock location and reduce bump steer. i have to get to work i could explain better if i had more time. chekc out r3d's sticky in the suspension forum.

 

What would happen if it went out on me while driving and how do Ig et it checked? Someone else said it could be my ball joint and then someone else said it's my bushing and you can't greese them up or something. Hell if I'm paying that much, I'm spending too much money when I need to save up for my new car. HAHA

 

Thanks man. I know, what a difference!

So the x2's will help lower the spindle and put the tie rods back to where they should be? Thats all I'll need?

If they were talking about greasing them then it's your balljoints. The stockers are non greaseable.

 

Are they expensive and hard to replace?

 

The steering rack bushings eliminate any deflection in the steering and make it much more responsive. The biggest noticable difference is durring a turn or while steering input is being applied. Normally you will have to turn, and then correct, re-correct and focus on if your drifting out or in durring the turn, due to the rubber bushings squishing and moving. with the Alum. bushings you turn and hold it and it stays, much more confident turn-in. And for as cheap as they are ($45) and as easy as they are to install (2 bolts), everyone should have the.

For the LCAs, you don't really need adjustables, I don't really need them but since I do so much racing I wanted to make sure I never run into a situation where I need the adjustability and didn't have it. If I can't adapt the car then I will be left behind. They provide a much more solid feeling in the rear. Almost feels like oversteer to me, but it's actually just planted really solidly.

I really couldn't tell you how much of a difference the X2 balljoints have made, I don't think I can notice it. If they do what they say, then you need them becuase your roll center is way low with the super sports. The balljoints are supposed to raise it, but how much it improves steering, I don't think I will be able to tell untill I get on a course. Compare stock replacements and the X2s and make your decision I guess, probably not worth it unless you wanna race.

I didn't lower the spindle, the ball joints actually raise the spindle, making the tie rod angle compared to the A-arm angle difference even greater, thats why so many people get bumpsteer kits when they do X2 balljoints. I don't have a way to measure bumpsteer and most street cars don't need a bumpsteer kit so untill I know that I need one I will hold off on it.

Are your tie rods actually bowed, like bent, or just not even with the A-arms. Don't bend them whatever you do. If they are bent, then they probably need to be replaced.

 

Awesome info man! As far as my tie rods, they are not bent and not planning on bending them lol, I'm just afraid they will bend. They arn't literally bowed, but they angle upward towards the a-arms rather than being straight with them like they should be. Isn't that putting a lot of stress on them being angled up like they are after lowering the car?

 

It's doesn't cause any extra stress on them. Gotta remeber they have and big range of movement at the steering rack end. Being at a high angle like that is what causes bumpsteer, as the suspension cycles (goes over bumps) it will push against the tie rods causing steering input, not inputed by you but rather just by the way the suspension is traveling. The tie rod will raise as you increase the caster also. lower the back end, raise the front end (where the tie rod connects) You want the tie rod to be as as even with the a-arm, through the travel as suspension, as possible. So just being even with the a-arm with the suspension at rest can be just as bad at having it angled up becuase the suspension travels both ways.

I'm sure this is not all 100% accurate but it's how I understand it as far as my knowledge goes.

 

You know a lot and I wish I knew that much. :O Yeah I'm semi lost, but that's okay because I'm not doing that stuff yet, but I do wish I knew that much. Props

 

I understand what your saying. Ill get a pic tomorrow. May just be the norm for lowered cars. Just want to make sure before I potentially screw my tie rods up.

 

Yeah its pretty much the norm, yet bad geometry.

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_...sion.htm#Front

This is everything I just stated pretty much, I think.

 

looks great man!!

 

Thanks for the tip, something to studdy on. I can't wait to go to school for AutoMotive.

 

Good info again, much appreciated! So after reading that there are a couple different approaches I can take to solve this. Looks like a bumpsteer kit would be the best solution for me.

Thanks man .

 

i think off set rack bushings and X2 balljoints will be the better fix. i'd rather have my A-arm even with the rack then just having the tie rods adjustable. my bumpsteer isnt all that bad since my car is not excessively lowered but its noticeable. I changed my front suspension plan and never got around to installing the x2's and off set bushings. im going to be buying a racecraft k-member with tub a-arms and coil over system soon.

i have a MM bumpsteer kit that i wont be installing on my car since i changed my plan for the front suspension. they are anodized blue just like the steeda ones and come with some rediculous MM instructions! name me a fair price if you need them.

 

Looks great, Sean! I can't wait to see it in person.

 

damn it looks badass.....you bastard lol im hating......

naw seriously tho sean did you do the install yourself? Or did you take it somewhere? If so how much was the install price?

 

haha you got good roads in florida.. Boston roads are terrible!

 

Arkansas has some pretty bad roads also.

 

Car looks great lowered and with the correct wheels on it lol.

 

Good point. I'm gunna look into some more and I'll let ya know if I need the MM kit.

Thanks! Looks much better in person.

Thanks man! About the install- I did everything myself. Did the rear alone, but had an extra set of hands help me with the front.

Iv'e heard shops charge around $300 just for the install of springs! If that helps. Just need basic tools to do it yourself. Wasn't bad at all really, the worst part was probably not wanting to drill the 4th hole for the c/c plates lol. Just read a couple spring install walkthroughs, that'll help you get a good idea of how it is.

Some roads are pretty bad actually. My daily roads are pretty good for the most part though.

Yeah yeah yeah. I told you that would just be temporarily didn't I lol.

 

Nice, looks good.