new gauges
I got some new gauges but im gonna wait till its a little warmer outside before i get them working. I got Autometer Ultralite mechanical trans, air/fuel ratio, and i ordered the digital pro shift system level one, and recieved a level 2 upgrade for free, compliments of autometer. i was pretty happy. the stage one just has the single shift light, and level 2 has multiple shift light color selection, progressive shift indicator, launch light, and 4 shift light settings. UPR sells a silver face gauge kit with oem illumination ill be ordering soon. it should match quite nicely...
i got the trans temp gauge because most of the times im at the track, im hotlapping and id like to watch the temps. and i got the shift light because im always lookin down instead of looking ahead at the track like I should be.
i got the trans temp gauge because most of the times im at the track, im hotlapping and id like to watch the temps. and i got the shift light because im always lookin down instead of looking ahead at the track like I should be.
Just incase you want to keep that autometer a/f guage but want wideband accuracy: http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=151
I'm getting this since I ordered a lunar a/f gauge to match my gauge cluster.
I'm getting this since I ordered a lunar a/f gauge to match my gauge cluster.
Just incase you want to keep that autometer a/f guage but want wideband accuracy: http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=151
I'm getting this since I ordered a lunar a/f gauge to match my gauge cluster.
I'm getting this since I ordered a lunar a/f gauge to match my gauge cluster.
wires are hanging out because they arent installed. i just pulled my oem pillar off to size up this one and align the gauges so they look straight.
Yes, I know I also know that autometer has been having issues with their wideband gauges. They've been having difficulties with the 02 sensors they have been using and the gauges themselves. If you want a wideband with a digital read out go with the AEM Uego gauge.
Besides autometer's widebands are only available in certain series like the NV, cobalt, etc. If you want to keep those gauges then what I posted is a good alternative, no not the best but good. I personally want all my gauges to match so I'm getting the wideband stuff for my lunar a/f gauge.
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=210
i was gonna go the route with the LC-1 kit but i went ahead and bought this instead of making my autometer gauge work as a wideband, i wanted the digital number read out. plus i left my cluster plain with the z series gauges.
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=210
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=210
Yea the LC-1's are suppost to be great and all but for the price I would just go with the AEM Eugo wideband. $250 on ebay brand new, comes with both white and black face overlay, and a block and silver bezel. Not to mention it has the digital read out just like the LC-1.
I have froze my ars off with my current projects
-12 below and then add wind chill
Its an Autometer Ultralite digital pro shift system (level 2)
Level 2: Includes all the Level 1 features plus a four programmable shift points allow you to set an entire cycle of gear changes. This feature allows you to keep your eyes on the road and still monitor your shift points to achieve maximum power and traction. As you approach your shift points, the LED lights will illuminate to notify you to shift. The launch light feature allows you to set a precise launch rpm from a dead stop. The LED lights will illuminate when you reach your launch point and flash when this rpm is exceeded.
# Digital RPM Display
# Super-Bright, Quick-Reacting LED Shift Light
# Easy, Three-Button User-Programmable Interface
# Four-Stage Programmable Shift Points with Launch Light Feature
# Progressive Color Change Shift Lights
# Custom Shift Light Color
# Compatible with .5-6 Pulse Ignition Signals (4- to 12-Cylinder Engines)
Level 2: Includes all the Level 1 features plus a four programmable shift points allow you to set an entire cycle of gear changes. This feature allows you to keep your eyes on the road and still monitor your shift points to achieve maximum power and traction. As you approach your shift points, the LED lights will illuminate to notify you to shift. The launch light feature allows you to set a precise launch rpm from a dead stop. The LED lights will illuminate when you reach your launch point and flash when this rpm is exceeded.
# Digital RPM Display
# Super-Bright, Quick-Reacting LED Shift Light
# Easy, Three-Button User-Programmable Interface
# Four-Stage Programmable Shift Points with Launch Light Feature
# Progressive Color Change Shift Lights
# Custom Shift Light Color
# Compatible with .5-6 Pulse Ignition Signals (4- to 12-Cylinder Engines)
Well I did the install of these gauges yesterday at work. I didnt think I could do it myself but it wasnt too hard, just time consuming. I didnt really feel too comfortable splicing into the PCM harness, but luckily I had access to ALLDATA at work.
I started with the PEP tach adapter because it had detailed instructions with pictures. I already had the kick panels and scuff plates removed for a couple weeks, so that was out of the way. After the tach adapter was installed without the gauge, I tried starting up the car. crank no-start with theft flashing. "****" I say to myself. I grabbed my XCAL2 and see if I could pull a code or something... no code. "What the hell", im thinking... I tried a couple more time. Still crank no-start. Ive got full power, just no fuel. Well, after I give a quick glance, I didnt put the PCM bolt back in, so I put it back in and car fired right up. After that, I wire up common power and grounds up and hook those up to see if I have power. Everything was lookin good so far. Now it was time for air/fuel wire, and the rest of the tach adapter. I wire everything up and it all looked good. Trans temp sensor still isnt in yet. I spent 5 hours on the wiring and wasnt in a mood to mess around with trans temp sensor I probably didnt have the fittings for anyways.
So it took me from 10 to 3 with about 45 minutes of eating and messin around with the saturday workers. Well onto the pictures...
Autometer Tripple Gauge Pillar
Autometer Ultra-Lite Trans Temp
Autometer Ultra-Lite Air/Fuel
Autometer Ultra-Lite DPSS Level 2
PEP Tach Adapt
I started with the PEP tach adapter because it had detailed instructions with pictures. I already had the kick panels and scuff plates removed for a couple weeks, so that was out of the way. After the tach adapter was installed without the gauge, I tried starting up the car. crank no-start with theft flashing. "****" I say to myself. I grabbed my XCAL2 and see if I could pull a code or something... no code. "What the hell", im thinking... I tried a couple more time. Still crank no-start. Ive got full power, just no fuel. Well, after I give a quick glance, I didnt put the PCM bolt back in, so I put it back in and car fired right up. After that, I wire up common power and grounds up and hook those up to see if I have power. Everything was lookin good so far. Now it was time for air/fuel wire, and the rest of the tach adapter. I wire everything up and it all looked good. Trans temp sensor still isnt in yet. I spent 5 hours on the wiring and wasnt in a mood to mess around with trans temp sensor I probably didnt have the fittings for anyways.
So it took me from 10 to 3 with about 45 minutes of eating and messin around with the saturday workers. Well onto the pictures...
Autometer Tripple Gauge Pillar
Autometer Ultra-Lite Trans Temp
Autometer Ultra-Lite Air/Fuel
Autometer Ultra-Lite DPSS Level 2
PEP Tach Adapt
you can also turn off the rpm if you desire so its just a shift light. its a really nice gauge.
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