I've just found my new desktop. Black FTW

If only I had someone to keep it clean for me and I'd have a black one too.

Lance i like your ride height much more then the lowered one !!

Lance,

I almost thought those were freaking 18s in the back of that one pic. What springs does that cobra have? It's got a serious hot staggered look going on.

we should take pics of your car sometime.. maybe in the spring ill make a trip to MO ;)

its got cut stock springs

and lance..if u cut ur existing springs a half coil you can probably pull that same look off....from comparing ur pic to his..it looks like the rear is the same height and the front is a little bit lower

Hell yea.You have to go to the WFC this year!!

WFC StL is in May, right? If so I can probably make that :D

Cool!

Yea it's usually the first weekend after mother's day.They have'nt set a date yet though.

I'll have to disagree in part.

I run -1.6 camber MINIMUM on the street any my tires wear evenly and at a normal rate. They've always been set pretty stiffly to the negative for a good reason. Negative camber isn't "bad" for cornering in and of its own. Camber gain is bad for cornering and common to the 79-04 mustang front suspension. The whole reason for running negative camber in our cars (minus those with Griggs SLA setup) is to offset the effect of camber gain on cornering and keep the tire as close to vertical while turning as possible for maximum contact patch size. As well as dealing with camber gain, the tread on the sticky tires we like to use likes to crawl under the rim taking the sidewall to a discreetly diagonal attitude compared to how it looks at rest. By adding a bit of negative camber you keep the whole tire evenly planted on the road while the sidewalls are under extreme cornering load which does give you a better handling car. The key is to find that point that gives you the best balance of overall grip, mid-corner grip and turn-in grip with the smallest possible change from straight vertical.

My aggressive setting is -2.5deg

If your alignment takes into account your camber setting when setting the toe then your alignment will be tire friendly. If you jack up the caster all the way as far as you can then you'll get the turn-in rapidity that most people confuse with a well handling car and you will be happy with more camber. That will give you the snappy turn-in you want but it'll keep its feet on the ground through the apex and on to the exit.

EDIT: I should clarify. Excess negative camber is bad for handling. In race applications I find that to be in the -3.5+ range. Street cars start seeing issues at much lower settings. More than -2deg should be avoided for street oriented cars. My agro setting is intended for track days or serious attempts at a new record time on old calaveras rd.