First of i want to say hi to everyone! ok now that that is done. to work

First off i have a 1996 mustang GTs, starting with 3.55 gears, King Cobra clutch, Steeda firewall adjuster, Steeda clutch cable, Steeda double hook quad, Steeda Timeing adjuster, K&N (everyone has these now) 01 PI heads. got them complete so the cam's and heads are the PI products. also Ford Raceing Shorty Headers, bassani Off road X-pipe, and flowmaster 2 chamber dumps. (sounds just sweet) uh 5pro short throw shifter. SG sub-fram connectors, bla bla bla.

Any how have the SES light on..oh yeah and MIL elim's. so the code is dealing with both banks running rich. the idle is hi...1000 rpm's (think its supose to be 600-800 rpm.s) and if i bring the rpms above 2000 or higher. take a while for the RPM's to lower back to 1000. seeing thats where the idel is...today im going to adjust the TPS ...or try....but as far as the damn slow return to idel i have NO idea. after i pulled the idel air control unit and cleaned it...hasent fixed anything. as far as slow idel return. any how. had a problem with my stock crank sensor...it broke off and i had to remove the timeing cover and take it out. but i have the steeda...so not consurned to much...i want to know if I can get the SCT 4 chip, and switch and it still be compatable witht the steeda crank sensor..but back the timing back to the factory of....10 degree's BTDC?

so in short. can i use the steeda and the SCT 4 chip set up....and how can i fix the idel,slow idel return...or will the tune fix my problem..oh an will it fix the damn egine light stuff. oh the rings,pistons and rod all have 160,000 miles on it. Car runs pritty well i think. a few times i have had a problem of hitting the rev limiter at 5000 or 5200 some where in that ball park..any how. i cleaned the steeda sensor to see if i fixed that...so far i havent had a problem. any ideas? :icon_salu

 

Is the rich code the only one your throwing? I still say that a tune will clear everything up. Youve done a lot more to your car then just "bolt ons." Changing the heads, cams, and intake WILL require a tune to get the car to run right. As for using the steeda timer with the SCT chip, your best bet would be to email modualr depot and ask them.

 

Ok just got back from the shop. here is my computer codes in the memory of my computer.....

P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire Detected
P0306 Cylinder 6 misfire Detected
P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)

So im not running rich to the computer but when i romp on it. i get a bit of black smoke...so leads me to beleave...bank 1. witch 1 and 6 cylinders are on..i think. the upstream O2 sensor is bad. so if i replace it should clear my problems.

BUT with all my aftermark mess on her. is it allways going to read like that cause im stuffing more air out...and more air in? the new o2 sensor is only 66 bucks so thats easy. but i still need a tune for the set up i have???

Please any help will greatly improve my car's attitude :nike:

 

1st off, I would take the timing adjuster and throw it in the trash. Advanced timing with already high compression is a one way ticket to 93 octane or more! 2nd...go get the right crank sensor trigger wheel. Then see what you have. The trigger wheel is probably less than an O2 sensor. Your rev limiter should be 6050. I wouldn't try to to "engineer" what you have...do it right once. Your timing sounds off. Part of your revving problem is the emissions.....slower "down revving " reduces the amount of hydrocarbons you release into the air...thats the way Ford wanted it. You shouldn't need a tune with a headswap...if everything is correct. It won't hurt anything though.

Adam

 

Didnt you say you had pi heads cams and intake? In that case you WILL need a tune Id think, but then again Im not an expert on non PI engines.

 

Well i purchest the PI head as a complet deal thru ford. i know there PI heads. un sure about the cam's tho. but youd think they where pI cam's as well????? and i can try to back the timing down...i dont put anything but 91 octane in anyway. why would anyone put anything less then that in a modified motor. Im not going to lie to you guys. i have been doing this for about 2 years now. same ses's same octane. I did how ever get the idle to come down. with the tps...sitting at a 850 rpm's now. i think thats the best im going to get out of it. I can try to call the guy at ford i got the heads threw to make sure on the cam's and thats my best bet right now. but what am i going to adjust the timeing to. though 14 btdc was what the cars liked. spose i can go down to 12 and see from there...re setting the lights everytime. if i reset the light. i can run about half an hour before i get the ses light. with all coads back
the car runs strong, other then the slow to idel down part.

ack, my fault. the intake is off of a 01 GT. so the lower plentum is larger...well its HUGE compared to the 96.

 

If your running stock timing then you want to run the recommended octane level which is 87. If your advancing the timing then you want to run nothing under 91 octane and 93 would be the best. The only reason you would want to run 91 plus on stock timing, is if you have a chip thats programmed for 91 plus. Hopefully that makes sense.

 

If you have a timing adjuster then adjust the timing.The timing adjuster is linear,fi you set the timing 2* above stock at idle,it will be 2* above whatever the computer sets it at 6000rpm's also.The number of degrees is not important.Set it to where it just starts to knock under high load and back it off untill it stops.After changing so many things I would think it's time for a tune.

 

Well i turned timeing to 12 instead of 14. seem's to run a little better. who can realy tell with out a dyno. however i reset the ECU also. so i can tell if it helps with the SES light. usualy takes 2 days with how much i drive it to and from work...but maybe on my way home i can take a few min longer to try and get it to trip. and with the PI cam's i dont think there PI. im going to stick with factory and go from there. Im going to get VT 2 cams and get a tune.

 

ACK just read in another forum that cutting the screen out of the factory mam sensor can cause a lean code? is that true. i also cut out the post that gose threw the middle...i figure little more air with less restriction couldnt hurt...but looks like it could have...i should have been doing this forum stuff for a lot longer. proly would be in this huge mess. if also use contace cleaner to clean off the 2 little wires that run threw the maf sensor. I have been told that over oiling the K&N can cause the same code. hmmm well i think maybe a dyno run will help me out. tell me what i need to do. or fix to get the engine light off. weather it be new maf, o2 sensors, tune. or all. im looking forward to getting it done so i can get on to the progresshion of makeing a monster for a street daily driver. later all...and thanks for your help. :icon_thum