I had my oil changed thursday.

I started a road trip Friday about 2:30 pm. Drove 1366 miles. No problem. Noticed a sound coming from under the hood that sounded like a small exhaust leak. ya know, sp-sp-sp-sp-sp(no biggy I want some LT's anyway). Fluids okay. Driveability okay.

approximately 640 miles into the return, we pullover to sleep on the road side. No problems to this point. 3 hours later (car idling the whole time)Press the gas to go and BRAPBRAPBRAPBRAP!!!! Loud exhause leak, now. We get about a mile and the car loses power and won't restart.

Pop the hood and find the 3rd cylinder (from the front of the car) on the driver's side has ejected the spark plug/coil combo.

Tow to town and replace plug. Car won't run below 4500 rpm and will not idle. First thick white smoke and then light black with a LOT of fuel coming out the tail pipes.

2 codes pulled while running .

9202- fuel sender open circuit?
D262- missing SCP message (Standard Corporate Protocol)

Multimeter the fuel pump circuit (best I could) low ohms= 8.7 high ohms=14.6

I replace the fuel pump. Now it'll run 1500 rpm or above. But won't idle and will only run with the fuel pump fuse removed...

No CODES, Now.

I take it the dealer and he tells me the FUEL RAIL PRESSURE= 89.98psi. and it won't hold pressure when you kill the ignition.

He checked the fuel pump I put in and said it was good, but that there was at least one injector stuck wide open, even though we did a resistance check and they all came back 14.8-15.2 ohms.

He said that there was so much fuel in my crankcase that it's what allowed the car to run with the fuel pump fuse out. He also said the knock that developed was from cylinder wash.

So he recommends changing the oil and the injectors and plugs and removing the ignition fuse and building oil pressure by cranking it. Then it should run fine.

Any input would be great.

 

I don't know how a knock would start from cylinder washing but it sounds like you might have spun a rod bearing due to gasoline in the oil.How all this started with a loose spark plug is an even bigger mystery.Definately change the oil.Use a clean drain pan and I would strain the old oil through a paint strainer to look for bearing material.(it will look like glitter and will be fairly soft)Use a filter cutter to open the oil filter and see what might be inside of that also.You can use a pipe cutter if you're carefull,you just don't want to comtaminate the pleats with cuttings from a hacksaw.You can crank the engine without starting it by holding the gas pedal all the way to the floor.This is how you clear a flooded engine and you can do this to fill the oil filter after changing the oil.I can't believe a Ford tech didn't suggest this instead of pulling a fuse???When you find out the extent of your problems repost and let us help.

 

i've had the same problem with the spark plug ejecting itself out of the cylinder twice, on two different cylinders...........i've been told that it is on a ford bulletin but hasn't been recalled, from factory the heads have very few threads for the plugs, i think they solved this issue in later models maybe 03-04 but not sure........... i had stainless steel inserts put in my heads by my buddies shop and have had no problems since...... but when mine f'd up the running problem was solved as soon as i replaced the plug and the coil pack..... you may try removing your negative battery terminal and "resetting" the computer, i think it takes like 6 hrs or something like that for it to reset..................good luck