Hi all, I have some questions regarding cold air intakes. I noticed alot of posts on different sites that say the fenderwell kits affect the signal of the mass air meter, is this true? I know it's not needed but I have a 85mm pro m meter and when we hooked up straight shot, ran alot smoother than with the fenderwell, was boggin alot more. I want to make 300rwhp, here's the plans maybe might be short but we'll see

accufab plenum 75mm throttle body-may need to adjust tps
pro m 85mm maf-
bbk equal shorty headers- going for emissions legal not power
bbk off road x pipe
flowmaster american thunder catback
MAYBE A SET OF PULLEYS-Is it worth pulling the stock damper off?
180 thermostat with fans tuned by predator car runs consitantly 180, not a nikel more
DiabloSport Predator Dyno tune
3:90 Gears
Canton Oil pan wiht windage tray MOBIL 1
Energy Motor Mounts
Energy Trans Mount AODE
B&M Deep Trans Pan

My last question is if I sell my predator and go with an SCT and theri 90mm maf, will that kit tuned make more powre than the prom 85mm or 90mm with a predator tune? I'm curious for users that have used SCT
THANKS !!!
Brett Wieringa

 

Honestly, you MIGHT be at about 245 rwhp with those mods. The auto is going to eat up the hp. If you are doing headers, go longtubes with a catted pipe. Cams and ported heads are basically mandatory for even a 5 speed car to make 300, so youll need those for sure. Easiest way? Nitrous. You DONT need a 90 mm maf for ANY reason unless you are supercharged.

 

yeah i agree with madmatt...theres no way you'll be even close to 300 with those mods...go with longtube headers, xpipe, pi headswap, vt cams, and than your basic bolt ons...should get you pretty close

 

My car is a n 03gt, don't those have pi heads already? I was under the impression stockcers with 5 speed were 235rwhp as I've read in 5.0 mustangs and MMFF, I'm very curious. I wouildn't mind doing long tubes and cams but this car will need to pass emissions in Illinois so I'm somwhat limited I would love to add some casm and longtubes but kinda figuring htat won't happen.
Realistically the 99 gt article at home had a few bolt ons, not as many as me an he mad3 256rwhp but I wonder if it was corrected or not?

I always hear people talking of drivetrain loss, what's an honest % for stick and for auto, I assume the auto will have a bit more but really am trying to figure this out. THANKS FOR YOUR POSTS!! Every piece of input helps

Are there any cams that will run through emissions??? Longtubes more than likely will fail here in Illinois

 

If you want to make 300rwhp then you wont be emissions legal. Youll NEED LT's, cams, ported heads, and all the other bolt ons and a damn good tune. Stock MAF should be fine unles your tuner says otherwise. I wouldnt waste your money on an intake. Instead of getting a HP goal you should give yourself a 1/4 goal. Im guessing you race since you want 300rwhp. Autos can run 12.7-12.5 or better with only 265rwhp. Remember its not all about hp. Whats more important, what your car puts out on a dyno, or what it runs on the track?

 

Thanks for the input, I am new to modulars and didn't know what I should expect. I would love longtubes and a decent set of cams but unless I scrounge and buy another "daily driver" I always buy mustangs as daily drivers then that changes the first time it rains I totally like this site as everyone seems to be a bit more educated than some of the sites I've been on. I have alot of questions but with mods listed above and good tune will I hit mid 13's? Mid low is really what I would like to achieve as 12's seem out of question without internal modding. THANKS EVERYONE! I think I decided on the K&N FIPK II

 

What for the items I've listed do you think would be a good setting to drive my car to the dyno or will it be ok if I just take it easy, only have to go about 2.5 miles or so. I'm just curious what you gents set your timing and fuel curves at even though every car can be different. Thanks!

Brett