exhaust manifold question- 99GT
#1
exhaust manifold question- 99GT
How hard is it to remove and replace the stock, driver's side exhaust manifold on a 99 GT? Any special techniques to make it easier? Its a long story, but I need to replace my factory one with another factory piece...not looking to install headers, just the OEM.
ok, here's the reason: Replaced my factory exhaust system this weekend. Took off the factory H-pipe. One of the nuts on the driver's side exhaust manifold just wouldnt budge. I heated and turned..heated and turned a little more...etc, etc, etc.......then it snapped the damn stud. Well, I got the h-pipe off. I cut the broken stud flush with a cut-off wheel. In the process, I knicked the sealing surface with the tool when it slipped. Drilled out the stud. Installed another and welded in. Installed my new exhaust. Checked for leaks....and that point where I knicked the mating area was leaking. Took the damn thing apart and put a bead of high temp silicone around it and put it all back together...leak gone. But, I dont trust it for too long. The silicone will never hold up to that heat. So, now I'm thinking of going to the dealer and buying a new, OEM driver's side exhaust manifold and replacing it so I dont have to worry. Sorry for the long explanation! It was leaking where the manifold outlet meets the H-pipe...where they bolt together.
ok, here's the reason: Replaced my factory exhaust system this weekend. Took off the factory H-pipe. One of the nuts on the driver's side exhaust manifold just wouldnt budge. I heated and turned..heated and turned a little more...etc, etc, etc.......then it snapped the damn stud. Well, I got the h-pipe off. I cut the broken stud flush with a cut-off wheel. In the process, I knicked the sealing surface with the tool when it slipped. Drilled out the stud. Installed another and welded in. Installed my new exhaust. Checked for leaks....and that point where I knicked the mating area was leaking. Took the damn thing apart and put a bead of high temp silicone around it and put it all back together...leak gone. But, I dont trust it for too long. The silicone will never hold up to that heat. So, now I'm thinking of going to the dealer and buying a new, OEM driver's side exhaust manifold and replacing it so I dont have to worry. Sorry for the long explanation! It was leaking where the manifold outlet meets the H-pipe...where they bolt together.
#3
Drop the K member.
You need a brace or an engine lift (just to support the engine)
takes about an hour to drop the K, about 5 mins to do the header, then about hour fifteen to put er back together.
I've done it on my car probably 10 times.
to do so you need to
unbolt motor mounts
unbolt brake caliper brackets
slide off rotors
unbolt shocks (put a jack under the A arm first)
remove springs
unbolt steering arm & rack (just tie it up out of the way)
drop k member
i count 20 bolts, all easier to get to then those ****ing header studs.
one thing i cant stress enough if you DO drop the K member. DO NOT TOUCH THE STEERING WHEEL !!!!
i ****ed mine up this last time the K member was off, it was a few degrees off when we bolted it back up, now my horn/cruise/airbag dont work.
You need a brace or an engine lift (just to support the engine)
takes about an hour to drop the K, about 5 mins to do the header, then about hour fifteen to put er back together.
I've done it on my car probably 10 times.
to do so you need to
unbolt motor mounts
unbolt brake caliper brackets
slide off rotors
unbolt shocks (put a jack under the A arm first)
remove springs
unbolt steering arm & rack (just tie it up out of the way)
drop k member
i count 20 bolts, all easier to get to then those ****ing header studs.
one thing i cant stress enough if you DO drop the K member. DO NOT TOUCH THE STEERING WHEEL !!!!
i ****ed mine up this last time the K member was off, it was a few degrees off when we bolted it back up, now my horn/cruise/airbag dont work.
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