Dom has...I need to get around to doing it...I just read over that tutorial that looks like hell to do

 

it takes 10 minutes on a 99+ car
i did it on my gf's car. i just drilled holes i didnt replace springs

it shifts better

nothing like my lentech full race VB

 

sometimes I wonder about you

 

Let me know when your in Florida you doing my transmission work....hell it will only take you 10 min right........lol

 

im selling my trans if anyone wants it. or the converter or VB

600 for the converter 300 for the VB

 

whats the stall of the converter? is it that pink one?

 

its a PI 4200 multi disk lock up .

 

Not sure if this is the link you're refering to, but this is the one I posted in Dom's thread in the "The Parts Desk" forum, http://www.crownvic.net/tech/4R70Wnotes.pdf. Ill be doing this soon, probably when school is over and I go home in May. Ill be doing a write up on it and posting it on my site.

 

What exactly does the j-mod do?

 

makes your shifts harder.

 

Doesnt look too bad, basically all you have to do it take it apart and drill some holes... i might do this when i work up the courage to.

 

Say you just buy a new street/stripe valvebody, how much can this help ur 1/4? Is this similar to simply getting ur shifts firmed up with a dyno tune???

 

If you buy a new street/ strip vb it will cost a lot more. The best type of vb is one with a trans brake that does not have fixed line pressure. However, I dont know of any company that makes one without fixed line pressure. Increasing your line pressure, or getting your shifts firmed up via dyno tune is harsh on the tranny. The jmod makes your car shift harder/ faster without harming it. Im not sure how much the jmod, or a new street/ strip vb will help. However a new vb with a trans brake is good for a couple tenths. A good way to simulate the trans brake is to put your car in 2nd gear and rev it up as much as possible. Youll be able to rev the car up more doing it this way compared to doing it in drive or 1st. I only recommend doing this if you have a high stall converter. If you have the stock converter it is best to launch off idle in drive and let the car shift by itself.

 

im going to try the stall in second gear. my car keeps creeping forward at 2300-2400 rpms while in drive.

 

Get some back to back runs doing it both ways and let us know how it works for you. What stall are you running?

 

its a 3200 single disk

 

Aren't u blown????? If so, why are u running a single disk?

 

i got this one for 380 and i didnt research enough to know any better. this one was set up for npi 96 gt with a blower. i will be changing it out just have to wait to see what my future plans are with the car. i called PI a few times and they always pressed the single disk on me saying it was perfect for a blown car .

edit: my car isnt making enough power down low to spin that convertor to 3200. a multi disk will make it easier for me to stall it up higher. thats how i think it works

 

Yeah, if you are drag racing, power adder or not then you should be using a multi disk converter.

 

tell you what, its a lesson learned.

 

Yep, buy Dom's converter.

 

i could pay the 600 he wants. then i will have to ship it back to PI have it re stalled. i can get the military discount from PI and pay 650 for a new convertor. i already looked into it.

looks like this thread got hi jacked.