okay, so i'm buying the eibach pro-kit from am soon.

a friend and myself will be preforming the install. i was wondering if any of you "do-it-yourselfers" have any advice, comments, concerns, that'd you'd like to voice before i rip **** apart and break something and have to get it towed.

any hard spots? tips + tricks? do i need a spring compressor? what about for the replacement of the struts so that i can at least drive it home without the wheels pointing in different directions.

any help is much appreciated.

 

If you have a floor jack and a tie rod fork you're set. If you don't have these then the job will be a little harder. Let us know what you have and we go from there.

 

Save yourself some money. The UPR prokit is the EXACT same set of springs made by Eibach for UPR. They are what I have on my car. Mine even said Eibach on them. I made an offer of $150 shipped on ebay. UPR has a ebay account called Billet Depot. Here is a link for the 79-04 Mustang V8 springs http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-04...item45f3fedfef . I would offer $150 and see if they will still go that low.

The install is pretty straight forward. I will see if I can find you the guide I used.

 

I'm a retard, I was thinking you had a GT. Here is the link for the V6 springs http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-04...item19bdaf796c


Here is the install guide I used. It worked great for me. http://www.mustangevolution.com/must...ering-springs/

 

i'm not a big fan of ebay stuff. too much of a wimp to try it. that install guide looks pretty intimidating. i've never really done anything major to my car and my friend installed lowering springs on his 370z so hopefully he knows more about it than i do.

 

I usually am weary of ebay sellers too. I confirmed that is is UPR buy their address and UPR seems to be a reputable company (except for their caster/camber plates). I know the springs are the same. Do what you are more comfortable with for sure, I just thought I could save you a few bucks.

The guide might seem a little intimidating but it really isn't bad if you're mechanically inclined. That guide saves a few steps that most guides don't. For instance that guide explaines how to replace the rear springs by tilting the axle rather then disconnecting and droping the control arms.

Good luck with the install and let me know if you have any specific questions.

 

yeah, i'm just going to fork over the money + an extra 12.50 for upgraded shipping. i'm in ny so the upgraded shipping brings it to my doorstep the next day, granted it ships the first day. i'm shooting for next thursday to make the purchase and hopefully saturday to do the install.

i'm just curious as to if there are any hard spots or problems i might run into. i remember when my dad and i tried to replace my brakes, the ******* at mavis tightened the bolts so tight that when we got on it, it snapped the square nipple piece on the wrench.

any difficult bolts or problem areas? if we do it saturday, nothing is open sunday for them to realign (as best they could w/o c/c plates) so how do i ensure that it's as close as possible?

 

I lowered the strut right through the top of the caster camber plates without removing them so My alignment didn't change other than the increase in negative camber (from lowering). It wouldn't hurt to drive it a few days without an alignment if you don't move the plates out of their current alignment. You can always mark the plates and the strut tower with a sharpie or grease pen so you have referance marks to realign to factory settings in case you have to remove the plates. I marked mine to be on the safe side but didn't end up moving the plates.

I ran into a few nuts and bolts that were a little stubborn but that's to be expected. I do recommend having a breaker bar and an impact socket for the brake bolts since they require so much torque. Also you really should use a torque wrench to get everything back into spec when it goes back together. Just don't use the torque wrench to remove bolts or that can knock the wrench out of calibration.

 

what about a spring compressor?

 

I didn't need one. If you disconnect the strut and lower the control arm you won't need a compressor. There will still be some pressure but you can pry it out with a pry bar.

 

i'm shooting for an install sunday morning. are they're any bolts that are known to break or be a pita?

 

the strut bolts are a PITA to break loose. Going to need 1/2" socket set so you dont snap your tools using a cheater bar (large pipe for extra torque). Other than make sure you lower the a-arm slow when your taking the pressure off of the spring. The rear end may shift on you when you are trying to put it back in place so a extra set of hands are nice to force it back into posistion. Should take about 4 hours to finish up.

 

is there a discount code? i want to get the eibach pro kit instead of the h and r sport springs. i wonder if i can talk my way into the 219 price for the eibachs.

 

why the eibachs instead of H&R?

 

i remember reading on AM that for the v6's, the h and r only did 1.2 drop front and back (or something along those lines). they can't possibly have a v8 and a v6 drop the same amount with the same springs, or can they? i was going to play it save with a 1.5 for the v6 specific eibach springs.

 

i have the H&R ss, and i have a awesome stance in my opinion. decent rake, and my wheels look great. i can put a pic up if you'd like.

From AM: Estimated Drop: Front - 1.75” Rear - 1.6”

 

sold. i also admire the way shadow_stang's mustang looks, since he has a similar rim set up like myself. feel free to put a picture up anyways. i'm going with these guys for $219. hopefully they'll be here saturday so i can install them sunday morning.

any info on isolators? keep em? toss em? a buddy of mine seems to think that if i take them out that i'll be hearing ungodly noise when i hit bumps.

 

i took the isos off and havent heard anything, if you do its hear and there, over bumps or something but i dont have any noises.

 

any idea about the electric tape around the pig tails? do you have c/c plates?

 

Electrical tape instead of isos has been working fine for me. I used one set of isos one the front and one on the rear. in place of the missing isos I used electrical tape. I have no unusual noises.

I think you should do a little more research before you jump into this project. The H&R super sports give a similar drop to the Eibach springs but are a higher spring rate. the higher spring rate of the super sports is going to demand different (more expensive) shocks and struts. You can get away with using stock shocks and struts with the Eibachs for a little while but I wouldn't recommend the super sports with stock shocks/struts at all. You will probably need caster camber plates for either of those spring sets. Some people say they are able to get by without the plates but I can tell you from my experiance that I ended up with 1.8 degrees of negative camber which is way too much for a street car. It has ruined a good set of tires by riding on the inner edge.

Here is mine with UPR "Eibach" Pro Kit.

 

i knew it's going to be a bigger job than just springs. i'm going to rock stock cc plates for a week. (keep in mind i drive my car about 250 miles a month, if that) after that and an alignment, i'm going to be saving for some shocks/struts. besides bilsteins, what other shock/strut combo will work with the h&r's? preferably something from AM instead of ebay.

how do you tell which shock/strut combo will work the best with h&r's?

 

This is a set of pro kit springs on mine. Standard shocks. I was warned against the sports.



Car is still a bit `crashy` over uneven roads although the handling isn`t worse. It was never great to start with but. Looks a hell of a lot better though than the 4x4 ride height and look it had with the 17s.

 

You have to get shocks and struts (dampers) that are designed for the spring rate you are going with. For instance the Mach 1 and Bullitt Mustangs had higher spring rates than GT's and V6's so Ford used a different dampers for them. The prokit springs can get by with stock shocks and struts but are very well matched to Tokico Blues ($370 from AM) The supersports have a higher spring rate that would actually ruin a set of dampers that aren't designed for the higher rate (stock or Tokico Blues). For the supersports you need something along the lines of Tokico Iluminas, Tokico D-Specs, Bilstein HD's, or koni's. Those are going to range in price from $540-$1375 from reputable companies.


What are you planning to do with the car? Is it used only for street driving? If any racing is anticipated what kind is it? You have to determin which dampers are best for you use and the spring rate you are going with. For instance if you want to go with the the stiffer supersports but aren't planning any track use then I'd recommend the Bilstein HD's because they are a great match and won't need any sort of adjustments to be made. If you were planning some track use then the Iluminas and D-Specs will give you the option to adjust the damping to get the best performance. I plan to do some drag racing in the future so I went with D-Specs ($570 from AM).

Also, What kind of caster camber plates are you planning to use?

 

as of now, i'm never going to race my car. it's slow. i know it. my friends no it. (pretty girls don't know it though.) it's just for show. took it to the drag strip a year or so ago. i don't plan on doing any sort of engine modification or any bolt-on's besides maybe a cai in the future.

i don't want my car to be "slammed." i very much like how your car sits in your signature. i'm looking for a somewhat even space between the tire and the wheel well. i don't want it to be bouncy (pretty sure it will be until i buy struts/shocks).

within the next week i'm going to buy the mm c/c plates from AM. i was told quite sometime ago by a member that "they're worth their weight in gold." i'll have them installed and get me an alignment.

i'll probably shoot for the takico d-spec solely for the adjustment aspect.

 

For what you want, I think the prokit is a better fit. The prokit will have similar ride qualities of the stock springs with a lower ride height. When you start to push the prokit they will perform better than stock because they have a progressive spring rate (gets stiffer the more they are compressed). The supersports will work but they will have a much firmer ride and are really designed for more spirited driving.

The MM caster camber plates are the only ones I'd recommend. They are what I have going on mine when I install my new shocks and struts. I will let you know how I like the Tokicos after I've had them on for a bit but I haven't heard anything bad about them.

I just want to let you know that you are almost doubling your work if you don't do the plates at the same time as the springs. I didn't because I was working on a tight budget. If I was planning on doing the plates as soon as you are, I'd have done it all at the same time to same myself the extra work.

 

Changed my sig for ya.

The best think about dropping your stang is making the rear tires more noticable, 315's on a lowered stang look killer. And if you've ever though about new center caps, now is the time (since you'll have the wheels off anyway).

I love the super sports, but see coil-overs in my near future. C/C plates or bust.

 

I will be going with coilovers in front but not rear. What brand are you going with?

 

I was gonna order them through maximum motorsports site. But not until I get some full length sub frames and an 8.8 (this will all take place over a long period of time, since I'm savin up for a mach)

But why not just get them for the rear as well? I always though rear suspension work was a piece of cake compared to the front, figured I'd just go ahead and knock it out while I'm at it, then look for some sway bars...

 

The rear suspension is much easier to work on than the front. The only reason I am not getting CO's for the rear is that I went with D-Specs and MM doesn't make a rear kit for them. Unless I find a good kit that works with the Tokico shocks I will get the adjustable lower control arms to adjust ride height at all four corners.

 

i just don't like cutting myself below my "nest egg," but friday or saturday i'll have the mm cc plates and a real alignment.

lol i have cobra center caps (thanks go the guy who i bought the rims from) and they're mint. i agree with the rear tire statement. kind of wish i had a v6 bumper and the stock exhaust so i can just cut the pipe back a little and hide it under the bumper so you can really see some rubber. i'd be forced to get some drag radials though just for the sexy tread pattern.