Yup....Found three bad cyclinders while checking the car out before installing the blower.

 

ohh man sorry about that man... do you know what caused it??? Yeah im pretty sure i have about 3 bad cylinders too, but yours doesn't make a knocking noise does it??? what are you going to do to fix it??? new heads??? which cylinders??

 

#'s 3,4, and 7 are bad. Prolly caused from nitrous. There is no knock sound, just a lot of oil blow-by and a failed compression test. I am looking at options right now, but new motors are expensive as hell. I may just go with a junkyard motor and sell the blower.

 

Man that sucks bro thats too bad. but i find it weird you never noticed it was eating oil and blowing blue smoke? which it should if its getting awsome blow-by.

 

yeah thats probably what i am going to do, But i havent gottten it checked out by a pro yet.. so hopefully i will get lucky... But if you go to www.Karkraft.com they have everything. used short blocks are 950, new heads are 450, brand new long blocks are 2300, so im sure if you sell the blower you would be in good shape to get a new long bloc and basically have anew engine

 

That really sucks especially after anticipating the additional hp from the blower install. Just think if they didnt do a compression check and put the Novi on anyway. I am not going to give any advice because i dont know your financial situation.

 

Man, that sucks to hear man. I was lookin forward to seeing what she would put out.

 

How did you find evidence of oil blow by? Was there oil on the plugs? Was it running poorly before you took it out of the car? I thought you didnt really spray it much? You even have teh Venom1000......

Keep the blower and park the car until you can buy a used shortblock and have it installed.

 

Bad stuff thats happened this week list:

1. Shadows = totalled
2. the2000gt = blown motor
3. Frito's iroc = keyed
4. Friend's dads z71 = someone spraypainted "***" on his tailgate
5. Mts#1customer = blown motor

When will it end, or who's next?

 

Thats a good idea, but im sure he wants the car to run now, so what i am thinking about doing if the motor is done for, i am thinking about getting a short block from D.S.S with forged internals and maybe new heads and cams if i need them, the block is 2119.95 and the heads and cams vary, but who knows, so many options

 

you're making me scared to drive my car haha

 

All these blown motors from the venom are making me think twice espescially with a car thats 10 years old and 77,xxx on it...

Which cylinders are dead on yours 2000GT?

 

I dont know the numbers but they are the 2 cylinderers nearest to the firewall on the drivers side, I think I might have just blown the head gasket and maybe screwed up the head

and people dont take this as the nitrous was responsible for these motors, I just think that Blake and I just have bad luck, Im sure my engine had this problem before i put the nitrous on, i just should have done this way before

 

I still dont think its the nitrous guys I have 84,000 miles on mine and throwing a 125 shot on a weekly basis and compression is fine......so I would consider freak engine failure...who knows

 

 

Here is an update...BTW thanks for all the sentiments:

The car is going on the dyno tomorrow to see how bad it really is. The car runs and has been like this prolly for a long time. It appears that I have ring damage and I suspect that it ocurred during the fall or winter becuase I noticed oil in the intake. I thought it was created by driving with the PCV off which probably caused a lot of the mess.

Kauffmans simply did a compression test and found 5 of the cylinders to be good and 3 to be at only 110 - 120. When they added oil, they held which means it is rings and not vlaves.

Here are my options:

1 - Drive the car as is until it finally blows for good. The dyno will tell me how much down on power it really is...or really not. If it blows on the dyno, then so be it. Who cares? It would only get smoked on the road anyway. Dave claims I could get another 20k out of it, or be scewed in a week, so I need a plan no matter what.

2 - Replace with a used motor. This will run $2,000 parts and labor. I will sell the blower at that point since I would not trust the used motor too much, but at least it will get me by.

3 - Replaced with a good re-built. That will run $3500 plus $1000 for labor.

4 - Replace with a built motor from DSS. They cost $2100 for a stock-type motor or $2900 for a built motor capable of supporting 600 hp. The cheaper one is good for only $400. Then, have my stock heads cleaned and swapped on the new motor. Total labor for this job is around $2200 give or take and depending on what they run into.

5 - Replace motor with a built Steen Racing engine complete with custom heads and cams and be safe until 650 hp. This option is about $5500 plus about $1200 for labor. Car would make about 310 hp to the ground and would be an awesome n/a setup. This would allow me to add a blower later.

My financial situation is sound. I can really do anything I want, BUT we are getting ready to sell the house, and I need to buy another car to replace my company car. So, the timing is not good at all for this.

Right now, I am leaning towards a combination of option 1 and Option 5. If I go with Option 1, it buys me some time. Either way, the blower is getting sold to be put towards a new motor either now or later. I can also get a blower later. There are always blowers for sale.

 

What is the compression supposed to be at?? what psi? Because on my car I tested the drivers side cylinders and 2 were at 60psi and the other two were at 30-45...I just got the oil changed 3 weeks ago, i dont have an oil leak (atleast i think) and there is plenty of oil.

 

this sucks!!! i dont see how you didnt notice it was down on power. build it!!

 

buy the MPH street/strip motor for 3 grand, keep your blower, and get both of em installed....then you can run higher boost...put down 450-500 rwhp...

 

Thank god I'm getting my motor built before I broke something. It sucks spending alot of money on something that should be killer and you find out you need a new motor. Welcome to the 0hp/0tq club hopefully you will find something new fast.

 

Would a scanner be able to tell you the problem from reading the codes? How do you know if you have a bad cylinder. I was told by a mechanic that I might have one but that was when I had engine misfire and the car was running really ****ty. They found oil along the rings on the heads (i think), but after I got the car fixed for it's engine misfire from 2 bad spark plugs no more oil has ever shown up.

Would I notice a substantial decrease in power?

 

Well i fugure i have been driving around a long time with bad cylinders and i havent really noticed a drop in power, but it probably happen slowly, so i couldnt notice it, but a 14.7 will definately tell me i have lost power

 

How much is it to get it checked on a compressor

 

Compression is supposed to be 175-180.

 

That's an option. I just dont know how their engines stack up against D&D. The D&D is about $500 less for the same rating.

 

thats exactly what i want to do, just got to get another car for the time being

 

I lack time and knowledge and the desire. It is alot cheaper for me to pay a shop.