I have been wondering if there is a difference in normal Valvoline, Mobil 1, ect oil compared to the oil they now market as targeted towards those that have hi mileage cars?

Or is this just a marketing scheme or is there some value to these other oils being offered now for cars that are nearing the 100k mark such as mine since I drive 100miles a day round trip and as I'm needing a oil change very soon.

 

Where i work we market it but I wouldn't recommend it by any means. If you keep up on your normal oil change intervals and use a decent synthetic like you are I would never bother. That stuff is basically for neglected higher milage cars.

 

I kept thinking about the same thing for some time now, because I'm just over 100k miles. I highly doubt it really makes any difference or not that much of a difference. As long as you keep your car maintaned and running good, I think you'll be okay. I love giving my baby the top of the line stop or close to it.

 

I have been running Valvoline's High Milage Synthetic oil for the past 8 months. I can feel a huge difference everytime I change it at 3000 miles even though it's rated for 5000 I still like to keep it maintained like all of you were saying.

By the way I have 89,5xx miles.

 

What kind of difference?

 

We had Amsoil in my mom's big ol' conversion van... it was a 92 I believe. Changed the oil every 20K from 120 up with it... The motor went to 340k before something went wrong, i can't remember what exactly it was but it made oil pressure go to 0, my dad drove it like 60 miles with it (we were planning on getting a new vehicle anyways). So the next winter we take out the engine and tear it down to see how good amsoil really is... the engine was in AMAZING condition.
Now granted it doesn't receive the punishment most cars on here do, but that oil is also in our race cars (changed yearly or every 2 depending on the car) and there has been a decent drop off in broken parts since we switched.

 

I've picked up the stuff recently as Walmart didn't have the Truck & SUV version of Mobil 1. From what I read on the bottle, it's suppose to contain more wear additives as well as seal conditioners. Considering the enviro-**** war on emissions, I doubt they added more of the important anti-wear additives (zinc and phosphorus) and the seal conditioners are probably in low concentrations. But hey, it makes me feel good! What's more important for high mileage engines though are frequent oil changes (every 3-5k miles), a good filter (Motorcraft is good, though the o-ring is a bit cheap now), and a thicker oil (as the engine wears, clearances enlarge so a slightly thicker oil is needed).

 

thanks for the info, yeah I am around 97+ right now in the mileage range, so it wont be much longer till I hit the 100k club here. So this had me thinking of the variances in oil...

 

Krazypony did you get my PM

 

I see a significant reduction of shake in the idle and in the shifter movement, the personal feel and sound of a healthy engine, and I have also recently switched to Shell Gasoline.

 

Yeah I did sorry, wife decided to change her mind at the last moment... sorry man

 

I have like 105k miles.
I shouldn't be using 5w-30 for the Winter and 5w-40 for the Summer?
I should use a higher weight because of the milage?

 

i gain at least 20 HP every time i wash my car

 

Yet the car is still slow.
MUAHHAHAA

 

I run Mobil 1 and change it every 7-9k miles and I spray the **** out of my car. I have 89k miles on it now, Enough said.

 

I highly doubt that the change was due to any type of oil difference but rather a underlying change somewhere. I change the oil on ~400 cars a week and I can't see a difference on how one runs or idles on 5-20, 5-30, high milage, synthetic, or 15-40 deisel(yes people put that **** in their cars). I'm not saying that it didn't but highly unlikley. But after seeing how 70 percent of people neglect their cars so bad that it's more important to just keep up on regular maintance that spend money on extra gadgetry. As long as you use a QUALITY oil on regular basis there sould be no reason to every use any high milage or worst...engine additives. Most additives have different **** in them, a lot with silicone that builds up and makes **** worst. I look at it like this oil and only oil should be in a crankcase. By my personal preference for oil is amsoil imo. They are one of the only companys that have datasheets to back up their mouths. But like i said use a good oil regularly and thats all you should ever need.

 

I always just get the Ford Motorsport oil.

 

so i can't get 20 HP by washin the car???

 

I have about 136,000 miles and still use regular synthetic oil. Oil is changed every 3,000 miles and the car is good to go. I commute about 70 miles a day if I drive into work.

 

My car only has 48k miles, but I'm switching over to Amsoil 100% Synthetic 10w30, just ordered it today actually. I did an oil change earlier this year to Amsoil 0w20 and I can't stand it. The valvetrain noise drives me nuckin' futs and makes me a little hesitant to really get on it hard.

I really dug into this trying to decide what to do and basically if you're in an area that is pretty cold (freezing or below) on a regular basis you'll want to use either 5w20 or 5w30. Warmer climates/seasons you can use 10w30. Ford basically only "recommended" 5w20 for fuel mileage reasons, less drag = better mileage, but potentially less protection... All of the 2v 4.6 engines prior to '99ish used 5 or 10w30 so any -w30 will work fine regardless.

The only difference (that I know of) in a "high mileage" oil is the added detergents to help clean out the crankcase and that is something that basically all (synthetic) oils have at a slightly lower level. I personally would stick with whatever Synthetic oil you fancy and maybe use an additive like Prolong or Zmax for some added cleaning/lubricating power every 3-5 oil changes.

 

I meant to say I use 5w-30 for the Winter and 5w-40 for the Summer.
I have roughy 105k miles on my '95 GT.

 

Alot of people I see will use Royal Purple or Amsoil as mentioned within this thread, is there a big advantage to those?

I know they are pricier, and 95% of all my driving is hwy miles!

 

I'd say definitely worth it for someone like you.. Amsoils new filter is guaranteed up to 25k Miles/ 1 yr. and their new Synthetics are good for something like 15k miles. Slightly more $$ per oil change, but you're probably cut out 2-3 oil changes per year in your car..

 

the first number ie: the "5" in 5w30 is the weather rating. The lower the rating, the lower temp it's recommended for. So, if you live in a place that is freezing cold yo would want to run 0-5.

The second number is for the viscosity, 20 being a lighter weight so that it doesn't gel/get too thick during the cold months. That is why I am switching to a thicker viscosity for the summer (10w30) because it is rated for higher temp. and a slightly thicker weighted oil to help with engine noise.

You wouldn't want to go with anything higher (IMHO) than 10w30 in these Modular engines unless you had an all out race car with larger oil passages and some serious flow from the oil pump. 10w30 should be sufficient for pretty much anyone that runs their car hard in a warm/hot climate.

 

^^^x2. Great info for everyone.

 

very good info, thanks Evan!

 

Thank you Evan,
but I'm a complete idiot and don't know what I was thinking, I meant to say 10w-30 for the Summer and 5w-30 for the Winter. I can't believe I screwed up two times in a row.

 

I switched to 10w30 when I moved to Arizona. I ran 5w30 white bottle valvoline and if you know that bottle then you know its regular oil. My car had the shakes bad in 115* heat and would leak passed the valve seals and blew blue smoke every time I started the damn car. Switching to 10w30 helped out big time and now the car doesnt give my *** a massage anymore . My next change will be amsoil with one of their filters. Car has 96k miles on it.

 

Evan.

A local boy has a 03 mach 1 with 30k miles. He ran 10w30 since he has had it. And the increase of oil pressure caused a spun main bearing.

I don't know if I would run 10w30 till the engine loosens up alot more.

 

Don't think that had anything to do with the oil, and if it did he must have been running generic, non-synthetic oil. You're talking about one step heavier in weight. I could see it doing damage if her was running -w40 or something heavier.