Yeah I just tested my car, it helped a little bit, but otherwise no it's still doing it.

 

They have a brand new one for $138.00 that I can get tomarrow. I hope it works.

 

I hope I also tried to clean this right. :/

What is this, that's in the rubber tubing. The one that guy takes out when he shows you how to put in the Cold Air Intake.

 

That's the intake air temperature sensor. I am not a fan of just replacing parts if I don't know for sure that's the problem.

 

Yeah same here, but I believe I need too. They did a computer test on my car, they had my car for like two hours doing it, and they said that's the problem. :/

AutZone has one for $80, rebuilt and $203 brand new. CarQuest/Thrifty Auto Supply is $138 rebuilt. What the heck. :/

 

What else could it be?

I mean the cleaning helped it a little bit, but it still trys to dye, not constalty though.

 

And the guy that ran your test is an idiot. OBD-I doesn't tell you anything if your cats are bad or missing. That's why we have OBD-II and that's why for OBD-II cars, either the rear sensors need to be turned off or resistors placed inline. Not having cats will not throw a code for OBD-I. Instead, google the code and you should be able to find out what the code is really for.

As for the MAF, they almost always do not go bad. They may get dirty but the environment they operate in won't really kill them. And since the time is right for a tune-up, it's time to replace the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires on the ignition. Tune-up kits that include all of these should be easy to find. Remember though, make sure when you replace the cap, rotors, and wires, you know where the rotor is pointing and the firing order on the cap. A diagram that shows you this for when the #1 cylinder is at TDC should be easily found online (and is in any manual such as Haynes or Chilton).

 

What will the code do and how do I google for it, like exactly what do I say? I asked him to find out why my Check Engine light is always on, was like that when I got the car. I asked him if it could be the deployed air bags and he said na. Then came back a few hours later saying that it's because my pipes are all pipe or something, there is no cats, but yeah I knew that. reason why I failed DEQ

Yeah when I took it apart it looked new/good. When I sprayed it with the Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner it kind of helped, but not really. It happened after this Snow Blizzard we had, I started to drive it when the roads were clear and that's when I noticed it. I did a California trip (17 hours I think) a few months back and then another to Venta (spell check) that's about 2 and half or so. I've had this car since around May and I've never done a tune up, oil change, or anything. Just using premium (spell check) and 10 - 40w Royale Purple Oil. Where would I go to get the ignition wires? What kind of ignition do I have? Spike posted a link to go get a tune up kit in my other thread.

What do you think the problem is?

The guy I took it too is a friend, well kind of. My landlord owns my property, the bar, and the car place all on the same property. So he told me to go there, since they work on his old school nice car. But they don't do Engine work, that's not there business, I think it's just brakes and what not, so I don't know, but they had a test machine.

 

I found a cheaper Mass Air Flow Sensor at Schuks for like $83 that I might get. I'm going to wait to hear from you guys to see if I should do it or if that's the problem, because I'm confused now. all the new Mass Air Flow Sensors are the same price, any where I go. HELP!

I should just do a tune up first and see if that's the problem huh?

 

http://www.thefordsource.com/store/m...lectronics.htm
Includes-9mm wires, cap, rotor, plugs, pcv, fuel filter

I'm going to get a Air Filter as well. I wish I didn't have to order it so I don't have to wait. This problem is killing my car, my gas is burning a lot faster, and whatever else.

 

This is the only question I can answer. The code will not 'do' anything. It will just show up as a light on your dash. What that check engine light (otherwise known as a CEL) means is that something is wrong. Could be something major, could be something minor. What you need to go to read the code is to go to AutoZone or anywhere where there is a diagnostics machine and have them read the code. Take a piece of paper with you and write the code down. It'll probably start with a 'P' and have 4 digits behind the 'P'. Go home and type the code into the Google bar and see what it tells you. Post it here when you find out. The guys can help you more if you do that. I don't think anyone can specifically tell you what your problem is if you don't do that. The CEL could be a thousand different things, but the actual code that the CEL is reading is what will tell you almost exactly what it is.


Get your code read before you do anything. You could be spending money on something that isn't broken at all. You should do a tune up because it will not hurt anything at all. It probably needs it, anyway.

Getting an air filter will not hurt your car at all, either. Like I said in the other thread, you shouldn't have to order it if the auto parts store has it in stock.

 

I think you miss some reading, because I've done the test, about two times. They guy even called me back again today and told me. My friend who did the test at his shop said it is the Mass Air Flow Sensor. He said the check Engine light is on because of the cats, I didn't read completely everything. As well a family friend who has been with Napa for years (Napa Mike) got me the Mass Air Flow Sensor without me saying anything. So yeah I have no choice but to try it.

If you look in the other thread spike said to order it from Ford or some where else for better parts, besides the Air Filter K&n. Which I know that wont hurt my car, it's okay.

I'll let you all know what happens when I get home from work and swap out the Mass Air Flow Sensor.

Thank you!

 

So I had a talk with the people at the shop, actually a different guy this time, but they both work on my car a lot. But this guy actually likes my car and everything, haha.

Anyways when I was at work my father was talking to them, because they close before I got home (which I just got home) He said the thing with my Exaust is when they took out/off the cat converter (I can't spell it) they left the pipes just hanging there, thes ones that got into the cat converter. He said it's not that big of a deal, like it wont ruin my car or anything, but if I get it fixed it will run smoother. Now I have to go to someone to have them put those hanging pipes or whatever it is into my exaust. Most people wont do it because it's againest the law here, but they know someone that will do it for me. If you guys understand what I mean. It's confusing me.

Now the Mass Air Flow Sensor, I cleaned it off a lot last night, also did some other cleaning. When I was just driving home from work I noticed that my car is doing a lot better. It still kind of does it, barely though. That doesn't matter now since I got new one, my father I guess talked to our friend Napa Mike who has been with Napa for years and asked him to get us one. He said it's only $50.00 for me and he said Marry Christmas, that's cool of him. I'm only paying $30.00 on my side. I'm going to put it in in a bit, after I find a filter. LoL

Another question: My car idles below 1k RPM. Is that bad? Also my heat meter thing doesn't even go to the half point.

Edit: He said if fixing the exaust/pipes or whatever doesn't turn off the Check Engine light, then he said he's going to reset it or something. :/

 

No, that's not bad. My '05 idles at usually 600-800. Heat meter shouldn't go past the halfway point, as far as I know.

 

Oh okay, mine is the same. My heat doesn't even go up to the half point, I think it's only like quater of the way.

 

 

So I just got done driving it, half an hour drive or so, I can't really tell. At least it was a good thing I changed them though.

Question: I noticed when I turn my car left or right really sharp that my RPM's go really low and the car trys to die. I remember awhile back when I got the car it used to die on me, because I had to actually park at my brothers house when I was staying with him. Any ideas why it does that?

If I remember correctly, when I had my stock rims and tires on there it didn't do it, but I could be wrong.

I have the paper work on the rims and tires when he went to Les Schwab and everything. I'm just going to write everything down on the paperwork.

QTY. | Product Code | Product Description|
2 08703388 245/45ZR-17 99W Proxes 4 All Seasons Blackwall
2 08703096 275/40ZR-17 Proxes 4 All Seasons Blackwall
4 00695320 Chrome Valve Stem
2 03361150 11107965C 17x9 5-4.5 Cobra Topline Type C30/C32 Chrome Medium Offset
2 03361155 11107165C 17x10.5 5-4.5 Topline Type C30/C32 Chrome Medium Offset
4 00695348 Wheel Spin Balance

This was all in 11-03-2007. If I'm reading this Warranty Contract thing right, the miles were at 83,964. When I got it (May 2008) I think it was around that and now it has 95,000 or so.
I was in there about a month ago or so. Because I had my rims powered coated gloss black and put the Cobra R center caps in.

I found some other papers on my car, but has to do with the tint from ProImage Perforamance. That would make sense why there is a ProImage sticker on my back window, haha.

Description
Tint Standard 2 Door Car
Extended No Fault Warranty, Windshield Only. (Does Not Include Abuse).
Tint Windshield Level Medium
Upgrade To Marquise Film

Is that film any good? That was in 3/14/2006

Then all this below is when I went into Les Schwab and had stuff done, which I think I need help on the alignment. :/

QTY. | Product Code | Product Description|
4 00000451 Mounting
4 00695348 Wheel Spin Balance
4 00695316 Tubeless Valve Stem
4 00695320 Chrome Valve Stem

That was on 11/13/2008 and 11/14/2008

Then I went in before that to do a Thrust Angle Alignment

QTY. | Product Code | Product Description|
1 00680112 Thrust Angle Alignment - Domestic/Import Cars, Pickups, vans

That was on 9/20/2008 I just noticed that I got a piece of paper telling me everything they did. I remember not to long ago I found a website where they told me to do certain Alignment or something. I would write out this information out, but it's a lot. LoL. Ah I'm bored and I guess I will do it, I can't take a good picture of it, I use my phone, but it wont work with paper and my light. haha

Ford : Mustang : 1994-95 : Expect Cobra

Front: Left Front: Right
Actual Before Specified Range Actual Before Specified Range

-0.9 -0.9 -1.4 0.2 Camber -0.8 -0.8 -1.4 0.2
2.6 2.6 2.9 4.4 Caster 3.3 3.3 2.9 4.4
.18 -0.65 0.00 0.25 Toe 0.17 0.93 0.00 0.25
18.6 18.5 SAI 17.8 17.8
17.6 17.6 Included Angle 17.0 17.0
Turning Angle Diff.

Front
Actual Before Specified Range
Cross Camber -0.2 -0.1 -0.8 0.8
Cross Caster -0.6 -0.6 -0.8 0.8
Cross SAI 0.7 0.7
Total Toe 0.38 0.29 0.00 0.50
Cross Turn Diff.

Rear: Left Rear: Right
Actual Before Specified Range Actual Before Specified Range
-0.1 -0.01 Camber -0.2 -0.2
0.05 0.06 Toe -0.20 -.021

Rear
Actual Before Specified Range
Cross Camber 0.1 0.1
Total Toe -0.15 -0.15
Thrust Angle 0.13 0.13

Ps. I hate Holidays and yeah so I did this to take my mind off things. :/

 

When you steer, is it while the engine is at idle? It's normal for the engine to start to feel loaded when you steer (especially at idle) since the power steering pump is requiring power. The engine should dip a bit but then pick up (but not enough to be at unloaded idle).

As far as the code, when you plug in a scanner, it will throw you a code (just a number, sorry Blacksunshine but you're thinking OBD-II w/ P____). Take that code, and then google it. Before I got a scanner for my OBD-II car that had code definitions built in, that's how I would get the code definitions. The fact that you don't have cats shouldn't effect anything, and it definitely shouldn't throw a code. Remember, OBD-I has nothing to monitor the cats like OBD-II has. If there is a code for the exhaust, it wouldn't be for the cats but instead would indicate an exhaust/vacuum leak, bad injectors, bad fuel pressure regulator, bad MAF, or bad O2 sensors or heater circuits for them.

And a couple other things: As for a tune-up kit for the ignition, the dealership will have them. I know Jegs use to sell an entire kit but I can't seem to find it anymore. However, like I said, this just consists of a cap, rotor, wires, and plugs. If you are confused on brands, some good ones are Motorcraft (stock), Accel, MSD, Petronix, and Mallory. That's for everything but plugs. For plugs, Motorcraft/Autolite, Champion, NGK, and Denso. The link you posted though for these parts though gives you everything and even some more. I'd say go w/ that since it's the kit that would come from the dealership, just probably cheaper. Also, 10W-40 is a little too thick, especially since Ford recommends 5W-30. And since we are in cold weather, 5W-30 would be a better choice. However, if you're worried for the summer and because you have high miles, 10W-30 should be as thick as you need. Remember, there is no need to go thicker unless the engine has been made for it or because you are dealing w/ flat tappet cams.

 

Yeah it's when I just sit there and turn or when I'm like back up into a parking spot. Well if the Check Engine sign isn't on because of the cats, then I wonder what it could be. I just went with what he said. But I don't remember him telling me that there pipes hanging from my Engine or something. The pipes that go into my cats, he said if I have those welded into my exaust that it should make the Check Engine Light go away and make my car run smother. He said if the light doesn't go away he's going to reset it for me. I asked him if it could be on because my Air Bags being deployed, but he said no.

So I should go with the Tune Up Kit at this website? I was going to order it last night, bu then I wanted to ask them some things about the color what the stuff looks like I'm getting. Why, I kind of wanted the red wires and I hate Blue.
http://www.thefordsource.com/store/m...lectronics.htm

Is Royal Purple good to use, because that's what I've been using, or Mobile one. Royal Purple in 10w 40 is harder then a b**** to find. Na, I'm not worried, only because I don't see why it would matter. My car sits at around 95,000 miles. So I should change my oil (when I find out and get the tune up kit) to 5W-30, then when the summer comes do another oil change and change it to 10W-40?

Well I changed my air filter, got a K&N Air Filter, and I replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Now going for a Tune Up Kit and new Oil.

Ps. I use Premium gas. Is that good? I thought about going with Methanol gas when I did a lot more racing, instead of just people pulling up on the street or thinking they're bad ***. I remember watching my friends race vidoe vehicular lunatics and they use C16 Fuel.

 

Oh yeah for the Alignment I was talking about, I found that website. Here this is what I was talking about. Below the link
http://home.pon.net/hunnicutt/50must.htm

Cheap gainsClean injectors (no idea how to do that, but I put some Lubricant stuff into my gas to help clean my car for stuff or whatever)
Remove air silencer -- it's under the air box in the wheel-well (no idea if I have that)
Tires. If you want lower profile or wider tires get bigger wheels fitted with tires of the same circumference (called "+1" sizing). (is mine +1 sizing from what I posted on my tires and rims?

 

Running higher octane does not make your car faster. All octane does is control detonation in the motor. So do not bother wasting money on 93+ unless you need it.

Your car is setup to run 87 octane so do that. Unless you bump the timing up (which you can do with a timing light and a little know how) you do not need to use anything other then 87. Running higher octane will not do anything but drain your wallet more.

 

What is 87? I don't know numbers besides at the gas station. Regular, Premium, disel, and something else. I didn't think it ran my car faster, just better to use in my Engine.

 

I forgot to add after I turn it sharp while idling and it trys to die, it wont do it again for awhile or so.
Another thing I changed the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the Air Filter. I'm not sure if this is right, but I just got into my car and of course it's really cold pooring down rain, and not warmed up. I went to take of slowly and tried to die. Is that normal?

Oh yeah my Check Engine ligh didn't come on when I was just starting up the car and letting it warm up a little. I think it comes on when I drive for a bit.

Spike or anyone: What kind of Fan Belt should I get or is there no specific kind?

 

Royal Purple is great stuff, but yeah, if you aren't worried, stick w/ 5W30 or 10W30 oil. The latter you probably don't want in the winter but it may be worth it in the summer depending how hot it gets by you.

As for the tune-up kit, doesn't hurt to give the place a call. I'm pretty sure Ford Racing sells different color wires so just ask.

As for the fan belt, you have an electric fan, so no fan belt, just a regular accessory belt. Goodyear I hear makes some good belts but remember, when in doubt on a part, stick w/ stock unless you know something is better.

As for the MAF, did you get one set-up for the correct injector size? Aftermarket ones usually come set w/ either stock or different injector sizes.

 

So I use 10W-30 or whatever for the winter. Then change it to what? I pretty much race my car constantly, I'm not calm most of the time, just the rush I love. I found one at Autozone and it's like a Gattor fan belt or something, I forget. I got a rebuilt mass air flow sensor and got a K&N air filter, put it in already.

I just got back from the Discount Muffler to see what they can do about fixing my thing. Since I didn't know what I was going there for I tried to explain it to them. I guess my exaust, the big part that's like almost at the end of my car (I think they called it cats), they're shocked. He said he would put brand new ones on for $200, he said $300 at first or more, I don't know. Then he kept lowering it, but I don't care to put them on.

I just got back, talked to my friend and I was supposed to tell the other people to weld my AGR's into my exaust. I think that's what they're called. HAHA

 

Yeah so they guy is a ******* idiot and didn't do it right, so now I'm going to my friends friend's shop to get it fixed. They're going to weld that catalic converter line into my exhaust. I think I need an O2 sensor as well.

Ps. I found out I have Flow Masters.

 

It says the octane number on the gas pump under each type of fuel. Regular is 87 thats all you need to run. Get a cheap belt you dont need a $60 belt on your car. Also you should be running the oil that is in your manual, and in colder weather if you really had to run different oil it should be running thinner oil not thicker.

 

few more questions
if it will jump start no prob does that mean my fuel spark and crank sensor is ok?

 

I never got a manual with this car. :/