So i need new tie rods, for both sides. They quoted me at about 400 dollars for labor and parts. Also, i need new rear brake pads, and they quoted me at $199 for new pads, and machining the rotors.

Is this right? Seems a bit high to me.

 

honestly with most mechanical parts at the dealership you can buy performance parts for the same price if not cheaper.

i diddnt know the rotors COULD be machined i thought the ones they used were pretty shitty.

for 80-100 bucks you could have a brand new set of rotors from checker auto or autozone.

brake pads shouldnt cost you over 40-50 bucks.

I wouldnt skimp out on front brakes, but the rear brakes dont demand the best of the best in my view. i have no idea how good the stock ones are.


400 for tie rods seems a bit pricey. can you do those yourself? save cash!

 

I have no idea on how to change out the tie rods, if anyone can chime in, or has a tutorial or something i'd appreciate it.

 

Dude, as a mustang owner this will be THE MOST IMPORTANT book you can EVER buy.

This will tell you EVERYTHING and break it all down into steps, this will explain how to do ANYTHING.

BUY THIS BOOK NOW.

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/formus19.html

 

word? i'll run over to pep boys tomorrow. i've been meaning to buy it.

 

The outer tie rods shouldn't cost that much but the inners could. However, do the rear brakes yourself. $50 for pads and $20 for machining the rotors and it's costing you $70 to do it yourself. Any NAPA should be able to machine the rotors. If yours are already at the minimum thickness, then even w/ new rotors, it's cheaper than the dealer. Just make sure you have to tool needed to compress the piston in the caliper (shouldn't be more than $10 at Sears). If your worried about torque specs, Amazon has great deals on SK torque wrenches.

 

Hell yea these books are awesome. Definitely boosted my mechanical skill/confidence and i am doing alot more maintenance on my stang now.
I saw one for honda civics, it was literally a ricer guide... ithad tips on installing body kits and which fart cans to choose and the like. gave me a good laugh.

 

tie rods are real real simple. theirs a nut that holds the tie rod to the car (near the brakes) then you have to unscrew the tie rod itself out of the metal sleeve that it is in (going toward the middle of the car). re installing is the same thing except you have to screw a little grease fitting in the bottom of the tie rod and grease it up a lil bit. then you must go get yourself an allignment.

also the tierods will be reletively hard to get out of the sleeves so i usually use some sort of heat, map gas or propane is plenty to get then kind of heat you need to help get them out. Although i have done them without any heat and it will go it just takes more energy and time.

 

the rear brakes are pretty damn easy. the brake quote sucks. do it yourself u dont have to pack bearings or jack with the brake lines at all. good place to start learning about working on the brakes. never done tie rods bf

 

You dont need any tool to compress the piston in the rear calipers except some needle nose pliers.

 

I dont mean to say anything ugly but I sure wish I lived close to some of you guys. I could make a fortune.

 

I agree that if you want to work on your car, you should have a maintenance manual. Personally, I don't care for Haynes though. I've had them for other vehicles before and find that they leave out quite a bit and are sometimes vague on performing some tasks. I'd recommend Chilton instead. Check this one out:
http://www.amazon.com/Ford-Mustang-t..._sim_b_title_3

Hope that helps.

 

I'm 19 and i've never really been taught anything mechanically when it comes to cars. I've had to learn on my own. I'm slowly but surely getting there.

 

its easier if you use the tool you can rent at autozone, you have to turn the piston in the back to get it to compress rather than just push it straight in.

 

I realize that, push in and twist. Not that hard to do.

 

Hey, i noticed when i turn to the left it squeaks, pretty bad, but when i turn to the right it doesnt. Which tie rod is bad? How many are there? lol.

 

I understand that we have to start somewhere and I guest that was a smartass comment. I didnt mean it like that but Im SORRY.

 

No problem. Now back to my question...haha.

 

I bought performance pads and new slotted rotors for all four corners for about $250. I installed them myself with some PM help from Colin and I am not very mechanical. Don't machine the rotors.....just buy new, better ones.

I find that dealers are pretty competitive for some stuff, such as buying tires or even oil changes. They look at some of these things as loss-loosers as they want you in the shop.

Suspension work is probably better done at a mom and pop place provided they can do alignments.

I just paid a shop today, in fact, to install a new belt. Last time I did it, it took me 4 hours and a lot of busted knuckels. No more....shop charged me $125 including the belt. Best money I could spend. The blower makes the change a bit harder and the dam belt cost nearly $50 anyway.


However, $199 is probably about right for NJ. I was quotted $150 by a few places in WI.

 

pm sent

 

Thats how I did it, just pressed in as i turned them. Its easy to do brakes and as they said a simple cheap manual like Chilton's or Haynes will help you allot in doing basic maintenance work. I didnt buy new rotors either no reason to if stockers are still within spec's on thickness. I just had a local midas turn them for me. Cost only 35bucks cash to do all 4 rotors for me in 30 mins. Then just new brake fluid and your good to go.