arg!!!!! damn exhaust/clutch
#1
12-05-2006, 04:32 PM
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Downingtown/West Chester, PA
Posts: 5,796
arg!!!!! damn exhaust/clutch
im officially fed up w/ my exhaust. i had the header studs replaced with the supplied studs from SLP. exhaust doesnt leak and it sounds awesome with out the tapping noise. but now, part of the clutch mechinism is grinding against the pipe. also, the enguage point is much lower to the floor (not really complaining about that) and it is a real effort to use the clutch now. i know i pulled something in my quad driving 5 mins home
any help would be great. also, im not gonna get a quadrant/firewall adjuster because it wasnt like the way it was now before i took it in. and this is a guy that has been working on my car since day one so i can trust him that he didnt do anything wrong on purpose
any help would be great. also, im not gonna get a quadrant/firewall adjuster because it wasnt like the way it was now before i took it in. and this is a guy that has been working on my car since day one so i can trust him that he didnt do anything wrong on purpose
#2
12-05-2006, 05:54 PM
this is why i don't let anyone work on my car...
he ****ed something up
heres my suggestion...
(i'm assuming you bought longtubes, right?)
Get a thicker header gasket (like a nice copper one)
That will move the headers out a little and should give clearence...
BUT those headers are made for your car so theres still no reason for the any clutch hardware to hit it...
IDK... I'd have to look at it, find the problem and fix it...
he ****ed something up
heres my suggestion...
(i'm assuming you bought longtubes, right?)
Get a thicker header gasket (like a nice copper one)
That will move the headers out a little and should give clearence...
BUT those headers are made for your car so theres still no reason for the any clutch hardware to hit it...
IDK... I'd have to look at it, find the problem and fix it...
#3
12-05-2006, 06:02 PM
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Downingtown/West Chester, PA
Posts: 5,796
nope no headers. only replaced the stock header studs taht go to the mid pipe cause there was not a good seal causing an exhaust leak. he wrote me a not sayin that the pipe prior to the cat was not lined up good
the only thing is i dont know y its doing it now. all he should have done is unclamp the pipe, take out the studs and replace, and clamp the pipe back on. it is probabl a half inch moved from where it was w/ the leak.
the only thing is i dont know y its doing it now. all he should have done is unclamp the pipe, take out the studs and replace, and clamp the pipe back on. it is probabl a half inch moved from where it was w/ the leak.
#4
12-05-2006, 06:10 PM
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i tightened the clutch cable and the release point came father out and the pedal was far far easier to push in.
or do the mustangs have hydolic clutches?... eh.
#5
12-05-2006, 06:13 PM
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Downingtown/West Chester, PA
Posts: 5,796
try adjusting the clutch cable. My honda felt like it had a freakin racing clutch in it when i got it. Same thing too, the clutch diddnt release untill the pedal was damn near the floor.
i tightened the clutch cable and the release point came father out and the pedal was far far easier to push in.
or do the mustangs have hydolic clutches?... eh.
i tightened the clutch cable and the release point came father out and the pedal was far far easier to push in.
or do the mustangs have hydolic clutches?... eh.
#6
12-05-2006, 06:16 PM
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no..mustangs have cable clutches. im not gonna touch it until he looks at it again. it didnt do this when i took it to him so it has nothing to do about reajusting the clutch..besides i dont think that what ever is part of the cluch is supposed to be hitting the exhaust
his working might have possibly damaged the clutch cable, it might have slipped a bit and loosened up
#7
12-05-2006, 06:21 PM
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Downingtown/West Chester, PA
Posts: 5,796
im not concerned about how low the enguage point is. im concerned about the hitting my mid pipe point and how hard the cluthc is to push in. my mom cant push it one bit and she drives manual too
#8
12-05-2006, 06:29 PM
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all im saying is it is a fast 4 minuit thing you can do to alleviate the symptoms a bit on the car. It might not fix it, but what yer describing as far as the low engage and the sudden increase of effort to engage the clutch are exactly what i had going on with my honda. when i tightened up the clutch cable both symptoms were alleviated.
How do you know part of the clutch is grinding? As far as i know the only part of the clutch that might move is the lever the clutch cable connects to.
If yer talking about when you engage the clutch you feel a bit of a grinding? Grinding against what? there is nothing for it to grind against. However, if the clutch cable loosened up a bit and the mechanism that pushes the release bearing is not hitting because of a loose cable you WILL feel grinding when engaging the clutch
If that is the case, all 3 symptoms point to a clutch cable that needs adjusting.
all im saying is hey, it takes 4 min tops to do it if you can find the clutch adjustment. if it feels loose when you righten it then tighten it to hand tight, you might notice ALL the symptoms clear up.
take it or leave it. it is worth a shot.
#10
12-05-2006, 06:47 PM
no..mustangs have cable clutches. im not gonna touch it until he looks at it again. it didnt do this when i took it to him so it has nothing to do about reajusting the clutch..besides i dont think that what ever is part of the cluch is supposed to be hitting the exhaust
i was under the impression or i was pretty sure i guess that after the fox bodies? or somthin like that all mustangs had hydrolic clutches- non hydrolic clutches need adjusting "often" what jack said is true about it being loose but in reality once a hydrolic clutch is installed it shouldnt need adjusting ever.
#11
12-05-2006, 06:58 PM
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best bet is to pop the hood and get someone to look in the engine bay as you hit the clutch. if it is a cable and not hydrolic then the cable will become stressed and you should see it move a little as you engage the clutch. i wish i had my haynes manual with me, but it is the mustang which is parked in the garage and im at work.
maybe someone else knows....
i just checked Napaonline and they do show a Clutch Cable for an 04 mustang GT. so i think they do have cables
#12
12-05-2006, 07:00 PM
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once you DO find it at the end of the clutch cable it will connect to a control lever on the transmission. before that it hits a brace. There should be a plastic ring that can be used to tighten up the clutch cable. Turn it to the right untill it gets hand tight, then see how the clutch feels. uit should have loosened up drastically and feel normal, the grinding might stop too
#13
12-05-2006, 07:04 PM
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Downingtown/West Chester, PA
Posts: 5,796
not what it says here:
http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/clutcha.htm
i still cannnot figure it out even w/ reading this many times
http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/clutcha.htm
i still cannnot figure it out even w/ reading this many times
#14
12-05-2006, 07:04 PM
The 64-04 mustangs have cable clutches in them.
All you do is put the car in first gear with the motor off lift the clutch pedal with your foot till it goes up a hair or so, then press it down slowly all the way to the floor this will adjust the cable. You may need to do this a few times till its right.
All you do is put the car in first gear with the motor off lift the clutch pedal with your foot till it goes up a hair or so, then press it down slowly all the way to the floor this will adjust the cable. You may need to do this a few times till its right.
#17
12-05-2006, 07:08 PM
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Downingtown/West Chester, PA
Posts: 5,796
thank you!!!! i forgot i had the manual.lol
#18
12-05-2006, 07:10 PM
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The 64-04 mustangs have cable clutches in them.
All you do is put the car in first gear with the motor off lift the clutch pedal with your foot till it goes up a hair or so, then press it down slowly all the way to the floor this will adjust the cable. You may need to do this a few times till its right.
All you do is put the car in first gear with the motor off lift the clutch pedal with your foot till it goes up a hair or so, then press it down slowly all the way to the floor this will adjust the cable. You may need to do this a few times till its right.
#19
12-05-2006, 07:11 PM
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Its amazing they actually decided to use a simple design that works perfectly well and is cheap to replace rather than going with a more complicated hydrolic system that probably costs over 300 bucks to replace. lol.....
#20
12-05-2006, 07:12 PM
Yeah its a cool little design. i tend to do mine every 2 oil changes or so and it stays right around the middle for engagement.
#25
12-05-2006, 07:30 PM
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well im assuming that the cable attaches to a lever near the bellhousing. hopefully the mechanic diddnt bend or damage the lever.
if you have somebody with you, get under the car and have them engage and release the clutch, try to find the lever on the tranny that the cable connects to. the lever should be TIGHT, there shouldnt be ANY play on it....
if you have somebody with you, get under the car and have them engage and release the clutch, try to find the lever on the tranny that the cable connects to. the lever should be TIGHT, there shouldnt be ANY play on it....
#26
12-05-2006, 07:51 PM
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Downingtown/West Chester, PA
Posts: 5,796
well im assuming that the cable attaches to a lever near the bellhousing. hopefully the mechanic diddnt bend or damage the lever.
if you have somebody with you, get under the car and have them engage and release the clutch, try to find the lever on the tranny that the cable connects to. the lever should be TIGHT, there shouldnt be ANY play on it....
if you have somebody with you, get under the car and have them engage and release the clutch, try to find the lever on the tranny that the cable connects to. the lever should be TIGHT, there shouldnt be ANY play on it....
#27
12-05-2006, 07:59 PM
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Downingtown/West Chester, PA
Posts: 5,796
vid: http://youtube.com/watch?v=H0-IGIHm1gA
you can hear the grinding right before the sqeeking, also, on the last bit, i hold the clutch all the way in and keeps sqeeking for 1 or 2 secs
you can hear the grinding right before the sqeeking, also, on the last bit, i hold the clutch all the way in and keeps sqeeking for 1 or 2 secs
#28
12-05-2006, 08:21 PM
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Damn... that sounds like my right knee.
so clutch is in and it you hold it and it keeps squeaking....
damn... i dunno man... was hoping it was the clutch cable.
def take it back to the guy, my vote still goes towards a damaged clutch cable, or maybe it is slipping...
so clutch is in and it you hold it and it keeps squeaking....
damn... i dunno man... was hoping it was the clutch cable.
def take it back to the guy, my vote still goes towards a damaged clutch cable, or maybe it is slipping...
#29
12-05-2006, 08:21 PM
How loose is the pedal? Is there a 1/4" play before it engages (the point where you feel the clutch enaging and start getting stiff)? If so, your cable is loose. If not, a possibility is that the cable is too close to the exhaust manifolds/H-pipe causing the cable to melt.
Also, 79-04 Mustangs had cable, 05+ uses hydraulic, and 64-78 uses mechanical linkeage (z-bar that consists of 2 metal rods).
Also, 79-04 Mustangs had cable, 05+ uses hydraulic, and 64-78 uses mechanical linkeage (z-bar that consists of 2 metal rods).