I have the same thing....does yours squeek?

Right now I'm looking at going with Steeda Lowers, and MAYBE get the subframe connectors if my parents gimme some money for my birthday next week lol

Although I don't think either is your problem, the Steeda 4600 that I use, is a great lower control arm. It has the harder bushings and also allows the use of a rear swaybar:beerchug: SFC's are always a good addition for street and strip:clap:


Jay

a set of lowers and sticky tires would really help.

so what are you saying is my problem then.. that I need to have stickier tires and drive it like I stole it?

If your serious abouting drag times 17" nitto's arent gonna cut it. They are a good daily driver tire then a full out drag tire. I run mine for the street for extra traction so i dont spin my ass off. IF you really wanna get going you need to get 15" wheels with some slicks, or better drag radials like MT's or BFG's. thats what he is saying. the 17" wheels dont have the sidewall to let the tire wrinkle and move you forward.

oh.. I thought I've already said more than once that I'm building my rearend in the fall and saving all that business for then lol. maybe that was on a different site, I dunno. But yeah.. I plan to do 31 spline axles and all the goodness and run full drag slicks :) so I'm sticking with the 17inchers for the time being

Yep....start with some 15" sticky tires ....... those Nitto's just aren't gonna cut it. More track time is a must.....we weren't born knowing how to launch these cars ya know:) With more track passes you'll find the sweet spot for the best launch:punk:

Jay

yeh nittos suck. IMO depending on how serious are about the track..dont worry about slicks...get a really nice DR..*cough*BFG's*cough*

I use to have the sweet spot for the best launch on these nittos.. i could get 1.90's consistantly, but after the cams all that changed and now it spins a lot worse. but anyways, like I said I do plan to run full slicks because I want to be getting 1.6 and lower 60fts, and I don't want to do it on this rearend because this is my daily driver lol. i might just forget the lowers all together and save the money and try to do the rearend next month. i dont want to go buy another set of DR's when I won't use them very long :)

eh I'm gonna be spraying a 100 shot on DR's with 4.10s on my stock rearend..and it's my D/D..lol




so.....how much are new rearends anyways? LMAO

lol, the differential is the part that kills me, like the eaton posi is around $440. what else is good? detroit t-lok?

Auburn Pro diff, Detroit Tru-trak, Torsen, also as you said Eaton Posi. All good ones. For a cheap diff that you can rebuild, is Ford's T-loc(sp?) which is usually half the price of the good onees.

Well, I did a little research and since this is my DD.. the Detroit tru trac may not be the best option for the street. It's streetable, but I think I might just end up goign with the Eaton Posi. I'd rather throw down the cash if it's worth it.

nope. never squeeked

hey c-sledd... for your diff, check out the powertrax system. I love these things. They give you a detroit locker which is big pimpin for drag and street. http://www.powertrax.com/noslip.html Best of all, you use your existing diff carrier or a 31 spline unit from a junkyard pickup or explorer. It simply replaces the clutches and spider gears. In straight line it's just exactly like a spool but as soon as the tires need to turn at different speeds, they unlock and ratchet to allow that without chirping or understeer. They've really done well at getting rid of the loud ratcheting sound that some people found annoying. The price is right too and you can install it at home with common hand tools and without pulling your carrier if you're ok with the 28 spline axles.

hmm, thanks for the info.. I'll look into it :)