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Brake problems

  #1  
Old 05-17-2006, 05:24 PM
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Default Brake problems

Ok, I just changed all my rotors and pads and bled the system one wheel at a time starting with the furthest from the master cylinder and working to the closest. I hooked everything back up and now the brakes dont work at all and the emergency brake isnt working either. There is no tension when i pull the E-brake up or press on the brake pedal. Any ideas what I could have done wrong? Im going to take it apart again tomarrow and try to fix.. thankful for any help or tips.
 
  #3  
Old 05-17-2006, 05:40 PM
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If you re-installed the cable correct it will self adjust, just keep pulling and putting back, it will norm take a few pulls. Don't hold the button in when you pull up. Make sure the E clip is back in the calp that holds the housing, this is the #1 thing some people forget to do. Also, if you bled the brakes and have no pedal you may need to re-bleed. Start with pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front, make sure to keep master full at all times. Use speed bleeders if you have them, makes it REAL easy. you will also have to pump the pedal a few times to let the rear calps screw back out. After the brakes are bled you should not hav eto do this. You did screw the piston in and not PUSH? If you don't have speed bleeders get someone to pump the pedal until it's firm then hold the pedal as you open the bleeders. One calp at a time. You will need to do this until NO air is in the system, use a small length of clear hose and run it into a cup with a little brake fluid in it, you will see air bubbles in the hose and bubble up in the cup. You can do it without the cup and hose, just make sure you get all the air farts out before you move to the next. Speed bleeders are the best. Most local auto stores carry them Motormite brand work great. $10 per pair here. Once installed all you do is open the bleeder, one-at-a-time, and pump the pedal a few times. Check fluid level in master, close bleeder and mov to the next, all by yourself. Put a rag or a few paper towels over an daround the calps to catch the fluid. Goodluck
 
  #4  
Old 05-17-2006, 06:50 PM
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You need to go back and tighten all the little things you used to bleed the system. You just have an air leak somewhere. Either that or you need to bleed them again.
 
  #5  
Old 05-17-2006, 07:34 PM
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I had the same problem when i did it last month, make sure if you removed the claipers for any reason that you put on ALL of the washers, any leak can cause your brakes to not work properly
 
  #6  
Old 05-18-2006, 10:56 AM
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I pulled the E-brake up like 20 times and its just not pulling on the other end of the cable at all. When I bled the brakes I pumped the pedal until the brake fluid was coming out the caliper bleed screw consistantly. Im going to try to bleed again going rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver. The E-brake is still puzzling me. Is there a way to tighten it where the e-brake handle is? Thx for all the help guys.
 
  #7  
Old 05-18-2006, 05:33 PM
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if you let the master drain down when you had your line disconnected you could have some air trapped in the master cyl. if thats the case try bleeding the master by cracking the fittings loose while someone holds the pedal down.
 
  #8  
Old 05-18-2006, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 00WhiteGT
I pulled the E-brake up like 20 times and its just not pulling on the other end of the cable at all. When I bled the brakes I pumped the pedal until the brake fluid was coming out the caliper bleed screw consistantly. Im going to try to bleed again going rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver. The E-brake is still puzzling me. Is there a way to tighten it where the e-brake handle is? Thx for all the help guys.
Its self adjusting.
 
  #9  
Old 05-19-2006, 11:32 AM
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Well I was not able to fix it and decided to get it towed to pep boys who told me its probably air in the system and seemed to think that only the dealer could bleed it because of the abs. Im not sure if they're right but its at the dealership right now. Once I find out what exactly went wrong ill post. Man its been frustrating. No leaks that I could see and I bled them properly 3 times. Well see when they call me. Thx.
 
  #10  
Old 05-22-2006, 10:31 AM
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Ok I had a brake inspection done and they said both my rear calipers were "broken". I think I broke them using a socket and a hammer to compress the piston instead of a C-clamp. I replaced both rear calipers and managed to snap the bolt connecting the line to the caliper. So now im waiting on that botl to come in. Lesson for do-it-yourself brakes...
1. use c-clamp to compress pistons 2. get single person bleed system(super easy with no mess almost) 3. don't over tighten bolts(research torque specs) Hopes this helps somebody.
 
  #11  
Old 05-22-2006, 10:34 AM
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Doesn't it specifically state to use a c-clamp with a block of wood? And how did you overtighten the brake hose bolt? You should have known when the bolt was tight.......
 
  #12  
Old 05-22-2006, 12:16 PM
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rear pistons screw into calipers, they don't compress like normal calipers do. C clamp would have caused the same problem. You can grip the edge with a pipe wrench or channel locks but they make a special tool that makes it a little easier. Sorry to hear it was such an expensive lesson - I usually hope my mistakes are under $100
 
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