When i get home im swapping out the O/R X for the stock H. As it sits, there is a magnaflow cat back and i would like to swap it out for a Borla Stinger cat back. Would it be smarter to tune the car with the stock H and the Borla installed together? Or could i tune it for the stock H and just swapping out the cat-back is fine?

 

Wouldn't hurt.

 

Was the car dyno tuned for the O/R X and Magnaflow catback?

Either way i'd tune it.

 

Don't waste your money. Anything after the stock manifolds won't produce much power and the computer can already compensate for it by itself.

 

right now its tuned for the O/R X and the magnaflows....im gonna tune it with the stock H on and sometime soon ill get the Borla stingers and i was wondering if cat back effect anything within the tuning. I didnt think they would, not much anyway, but just to be safe.

 

Yup.

 

yup i should retune after only swapping out a cat back? Because it will be tuned with the stock H pipe and magnaflows....but once i swap to a borla cat back should i have it tuned AGAIN?

 

You should listen to Bassman. He knows his ****.

I don't know how it is on 99-04's, but when I did my exhaust on my '05, I did the axle back first. I didn't tune for that. A few months later when I got the full exhaust done (headers, X pipe) is when I got a tune.

I don't think it would require a tune if it is after the sensors. If you're not doing anything to the manifolds or cats, it shouldn't affect the air flow to a notable amount and shouldn't need a tune.

 

Not necessary on a 2v.

 

Hes got a Cobra.

 

Not necessary on a 4v.

 

lol...wow. I'll just wait on everything. I'll tune it with the stock H, borla stingers, and the new clutch/flywheel.

 

why would u retune for a diff clutch? shift points maybe?

 

well im thinking that a centerforce clutch, fidanza flywheel, catback, swapping to factory H, and a few cooling mods will pull the cobras hp up or at least get a less % drivetrain loss with the clutch/flywheel. You wouldnt retune with a clutch for shift points. I have a 03 cobra with a 6 speed.

 

Don't see factory H making more power then an o/r X, but its going to change the a/f a bit doing that. Though the factory computer should be able to handle the change.

 

Well CA has this new "2k dollars PER cat missing from manufacter setup"(loosely worded back)...Plus emissions is a bitch so i'm going with the stock H instead of the O/R X thats on it now. I'll put on a throttle body to make up for the few horses lost, but going from O/R X to stock 4 Cat H pipe i wanna get it retuned when i put the clutch and everything on ALLLL at once.

 

last time i went through my SMOG check they didnt even look under my car...i panicked and put my stock H back on just to have it SMOG'd. i didnt want to take the chance of being a gross polluter. they gave me some **** about my powerpipe, 75mm TB and accufab plenum but i told them it was part of the vortech CARB sticker and they went with it. i passed as being super clean! i would of passed with the O/R bassani x pipe. i also think the emissions in the county of where i live is probably more strict than where you are currently stationed.

the stock H will make you run a little rich but at most a half point rich and you can make those adjustments through your hand held tuner by pulling WOT fuel by certain percentages. thats how it works with my SCT x-cal 2. i would say the only exhuast component that really ***** your tune up is long tube headers. this happened to my buddies supercharged 2 valve mustang.

example: i can advance spark, fuel and IAC on my handheld tuner. my tuner only allows me to adjust up a couple points on spark and fuel is a percentage and its the same with IAC values. so if im getting detonation i can reduce spark but if i want to run some higher octane at the track i can advance my timing to get those extra 20hp along with some extra fuel to cover the added horsepower and load im putting on the motor.

if you dont have the ability to do that than i would say at the least hit up a dyno to get a a/f check to make sure your A/F is nice and safe between 11.0 to 12.0 if its any lower or higher than get a new tune or make the adjustments with the hand held tuner thats if you can.

 

ok sweet thats the info i was looking for. THANK YOU!! So i will only have to worry about WOT right? plus going a little rich isnt as bad as going a little lean. Its just that my wife is running around with a tune for a O/R pipe, but it has the stock H w/4 cats cause she had to smog it. I'll just get it tuned when i put the new clutch and stuff in it...cause im swapping out the cat back and keeping the stock H on there.

 

just find a dyno with a wideband strap the car on there to have the A/F checked. should only cost 60-70 bucks...this is a lot cheaper than your wife taking the chance of going WOT for those highway lane changes and popping the motor. like i said the car is more than likely running a lil rich i know mine did when i put the stock h pipe back on i had some soot building up on the bumper.

 

yeah i dont know about it only being 60-70 bucks to get the a/f checked...id have to ask the tuner about that one. But she only drove it to get it registered and to get a base sticker put on. Never went over 3k with the stock H on there. I was nervous but thought it would be fine staying out of boost. When i get home im putting the O/R back on til i can tune or fix the a/f with the stock H on there. Thanks man.

 

yeah your part throttle driving is fine...i drove my car with the blower while running the stock tune, stock injectors and stock maf...i just never went above 3k rpms or pushed the pedal farther than half.

i had my car dyno'd checked a few times with a wideband and it always cost me 50-70 bucks for 3 pulls.

 

ill have to email the tuner about that one.

 

What dyno did you go to?

 

RET by Greg