Hi out there.
I just picked up a 2000 GT convertible with only 28000 miles on it It's a auto trans. and 100 % stock.
Before I figure out my struts & springs (to get rid of that 4x4 look) I am looking at getting some Subframe connectors.
From what I have read, they are all pretty much the same as long as you get the weld, in full length type.
I found these on e bay, wadda ya think ??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...4596&rd=1&rd=1

 

the ones you linked are not maximum motorsports... they're maxflow motorsports and they're junk.

www.maximummotorsports.com and buy yourself the full length or the shorties. Doesn't really make much difference. I like the standard length. They're .120 wall and VERY beefy. The long ones are .080 wall which is good but I like the bigger stock better.

Griggs also makes a nice standard length SFC. No matter what, weld em.

 

get a set from a reputable brand. or look into a local shop. i got mine fabbed up by a local shop for $125. all i had to do was spray them with undercoat. i couldnt even buy a decent set and weld them in myself for that much.

 

Steeda's are also nice, since the seat brackets are already assembles (unlike MM) and you can get them zinc plated so only where you welded/removed paint needs paint.

 

Thanks for all the reply's, I will check into the MM or Steeda's. To bad the MM full lenght are not made with the thicker metal, oh well.

This will be Mod # 1, with shocks/struts & springs to follow ( damn this is going to get expensive) .

 

They are just as stiff. The wall thickness is made up for by the larger height (or width, depends how you look at it since the Steedas are 1.25" while the MM's are 1.5").

 

the MM full length are plenty stiff and then some. I personally like the weld qualities that I get from .120 wall. That said, the .120 wall in a full length sub would be unbelievably heavy for absolutely zero reason. .080 is perfectly fine when they're that long. I have Griggs .120 wall because they were free and thick enough to take my driving with my MM torque arm installed and not bust loose. Prior to that I had a set I made with .080 wall that was full length and they were great.

 

Thanks again for all the input. Still deciding on which ones to get but this have brought up another question (of course).

Does anyone have any ground clearance issues due to these SFC.
I'm looking at lowering the car 1- 1 1/2" to get rid of the wheel well gap, and improve cornering performance as well. Keep in mind this is a daily driver, no track time just fun on the street

 

I thought Verts had them from the factory? I guy I work with has a 04' and it does.

 

From what I have heard, they are the bolt in type & not very strong. I have also heard that some did not come with them. I will know for sure in a few days when I crawl under there, but either way it looks like I will get the new (stronger) ones. Wanna keep this thing inline before I start any suspension work.

 

Yeah but those connectors blow, they don't hold up to full length weld-in versions. As for lowering, that isn't going to improve your handle, but probably will make it worse due to altered geometry. However, you will be fine in terms of clerance. Even w/o connectors, you'd have to watch it around speed bumps and driveway entrances/exits.

 

I would have a hard time making myself pay over 60bucks for some squar steele tubing. I got those cheaper set of J&M ones form am.com they are ok i had to use the lift to bend them closer to the frame but other then that it wasnt tuff welding them up and the car is alot tighter and it was cheap (i got them for a b-day present).

 

I just went under the car tonite to check everything out. Yes my 'vert does have the factory stock bolt on SFC and they do look pretty weak.

Since I don't weld, I talked to a guy at the local performance shop & he likes the MM's and can weld them in for me next week. I'm gonna swing by his shop tomorrow & make sure everything looks on the up & up. I guess I have a hard time when other people put their wrenches on my ride.

Another question re: the rear axle pumpkin. Where the heck is the filler/level bung? I didn't have the car very high, so getting my fat *** under there was a little tight. I couldn't feel where it was ? I just wanted to make sure it was topped off.

Thanks

 

Right by the pinion on the driver side. It uses a 3/8" driver. Also, it isn't a level hole since the fluid level is below it.

 

Not trying to hijack the thread, but is it possible to have subframes that were welded on removed? Or will that be more trouble than it's worth? I had a local shop put on some no name ones and I'm thinking I'd like to upgrade to either Steeda or MM full lengths.

 

if they tie the fron tand back together and are good square steel you are good to go. Really alot of these subframe connectors sold are sooo exspensive for what you get. You can make them for sooooo much cheaper.

But to answer your question its just a weld meaning you can cut it off thats the beauty of metal working you can add more or take it away.

 

my first pair on this car were great but not thick enough for the torque arm mounts to weld to so I cut them off and put the griggs std. length on leaving 2-3" of the old full length units welded on at the ends. I now have jacking points at each wheel where the last 2-3" of my old subs are still welded on. In-floor subs are coming soon but in-floor are like 1k to install so it's not for everyone.

 

Well I got them on finally (work got in the way). You guys are right, THEY ROCK No more wallowing on freeway hi speed curves, creeking going thru driveway dips etc...

Seeing that is is a vert. should I do the strut tower brace too? Keeping in mind this is a DD, no track time here. If so, how do they work with the caster camber plates? In other words, will I have to remover the CC plates to install the brace?

Thanks again, this site is great

 

stb won't help enough to install it. a 4pt roll bar welded and bolted will finish the firm up work and keep your brains off the ground if you manage to get the wheels on top.