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#1 (permalink) |
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Speed Demon
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Ok so tonite i wanna purchase upper and lower ca's. My problem is that i'm getting the max. motor. lowers, but have no clue as to who i want to buy my uppers from. With ya'lls infinite wisdom who makes the best all around upper ca? My car is a Bullitt and is daily driven, but sees track time three times a month or so. Please let me know and also understand that i'm a poor high school student. Which upeers will best compliment the max. lowers?
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Bullitt Mods: 4.10 's , Magnaflow Catback, Prochamber (OR), BBK Ceramic Lt's, Custom Tune, MGW Short Throw, SLP Line Lok, MM LCA's, MM XL SFC's, MRT CAI, Steeda UDP'S, Tokicko Illuminas, Steeda Sport Springs, MM CC Plates, X2 Balljoint, Bumpsteer Kit, MSD Coilpacks, Eaton LSD, 31 Mosers, Spec stage 2 clutch, Spec steel flywheel, M/T DR's. Cervini's RA Hood, 04 Cobra F. Bumper, 18" Bullitt Wheels, 20% Tint, HID Kit, Smoked Headlights, Painted interior trim(DHG), Seq. Tailights, Billett Stuff. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 1,422
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I'd personally leave the uppers alone. Having the lowers are usually good enough but if you are going to push your car that hard, then you may want consider upgrading to a torque arm/single upper link and panhard bar. However, a cheap fix for the uppers is to take them to a muffler shop and have them boxed.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: West Haven, UT
Posts: 164
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If your going to start messing witht he uppers and such, you might as well save the money and get one the "grip kits" such as those offered by maximum motorsports or any other high end suspension supplier. Otherwise, on a budget the lowers are good, and boxing the uppers in is about one of the cheapest things. You can also start changing out the bushings with urethane for a little coin, but there isn't much you can do without spending some pretty heavy coin. Here's a link:http://www.maximummotorsports.com/
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1996 GT 4.6 (bored .030 over) FRPP Shorty Headers PI Head and Intake, Forged Flat Top Pistons, Forged Rods, Cobra Crank, Mach 1 flywheel, Steeda Timing Adjuster, Steeda Underdrive pulleys, BBK Catted X-Pipe, Flomaster 3 chamber exhaust, SCT X2 programmed and dyno tuned, 3.73 gears, UPR Cold Air Intake, 70mm FRPP Throttle body.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
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Do you ever post in the right spot?
Either box up the stock uppers, or get some Steeda HD adjustable uppers. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: West Haven, UT
Posts: 164
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Good thing I didn't post it originally. lol
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1996 GT 4.6 (bored .030 over) FRPP Shorty Headers PI Head and Intake, Forged Flat Top Pistons, Forged Rods, Cobra Crank, Mach 1 flywheel, Steeda Timing Adjuster, Steeda Underdrive pulleys, BBK Catted X-Pipe, Flomaster 3 chamber exhaust, SCT X2 programmed and dyno tuned, 3.73 gears, UPR Cold Air Intake, 70mm FRPP Throttle body.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Wowbagger hates me too!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 6,859
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you don't generally want to replace the uppers. If you do, the FRPP uppers are just boxed stockers and are appropriate. Save us the explanation and just trust that things exist that make replacing them usually a bad idea to a zero-gain proposition.
Keep your stock uppers and get the MM panhard bar. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Traitor...lol
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Lexington, SC
Posts: 7,922
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Just change out the bushings on the rear differential with some new stock ones. Over time, these wear out and create a loose feeling rear end. Should make a pretty good difference.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 1,422
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Boxing just simply means to just box them. The stock pieces are made from stamped steel so it's just a piece of steel that looks like a U. To box them, you weld a piece of steel on the open section stiffening the control arm.
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