im wanting to do the following

install a new aftermarket head unit, but power the inside speakers w/ the existing mach 460 amplifiers, while running a separate amplifier to power the aftermarket subwoofers.

Is this possible? or do I just have to scrap the entire Mach 460 system?

 

yea, the power to the 460 amps dont work in junction with the aftermarket amp. all you do is connect aftermarket amp to the battery and a good ground and use an audio cable (red and white, kind like the audio/video cables for the tv minus the yellow cable) from your head unit to the amp. then just use speaker wire to hook the sub up.

 

you evidently didn't read what I asked. i never wanted the 460 amps to work w/ the aftermarket amp., more like I wanted them to work independently of each other, while each one works separately in conjunction with the aftermarket head unit.

e.g. When the head unit comes on, it turns the Mach 460 amps on, and it turns the Aftermarket Amp on. The Head Unit utlitizing the metra adapter, and the factory harness, will then provide power into Mach 460 amps then into the 4 speakers residing in the driver/passengers doors, and to the 2 speakers sitting up in the back glass area. Simultaneously, the Aftermarket Head Unit utilizing the RCA Pre-Amp Outs will provide power to the Aftermarket Amplifier, therefore providing power to the aftermarket subwoofers. Since each is independently controlled, if I need to, I can turn the volume down on the pre-amp through the Aftermarket Head Unit, and still have a good sounding system, without heavy bass which is good for coming home late at night, or driving through someone's neighborhood late at night.

Reason being, i had the Mach 460 6 Disc In Dash in my old 01 Explorer Sport, and when i took it out, I installed my Alpine MP3 player (which i wished I would have kept now ), but it didn't utilize the amplifiers to push the interior speakers anymore, therefore causing me to get some really really crap sound from my inside speakers (all because I didn't have one little Metra Adapter...grrrrr).

So now all I have to do is get me a head unit, amp, subs, a dash kit, and get a metra adapter, an amp wiring kit, and i will have one kickass sounding stereo system, w/out having to buy 4 extra internal speakers, and a going through a nightmare of a wiring setup.


found this all out at stangnet

http://www.stangnet.com/Tech-Article...Head-Unit.html

 

now the only thing I need to know, is what gauge of wire to run for the amp to keep from draining my alternator?

 

Yes, you CAN use the mach460 head unit, mach amps, and have an aftermarket sub/amp combo.

Most amps have both L/R Line Level (preamp) and L/R High Level (speaker) inputs.

Line level or low level inputs just want the low level signal off an rca cord.

High level inputs will accept the signal off an amplified ckt.

So, put in the amp, put in the sub, wire the amp up for power, then put a jumper on each of the rear speakers +/- terminals and run those to the High Level input on the amplifier, and turn on the low pass filter on the amplifier. That way, your amplifier recieves its signals from the rears.

this is probably the EASIEST way to do it.

just make sure the amp has high level inputs.


i DONT think that adding the amp should affect the impedance of the ckt for the mach amp, but somebody might be able to clear that up.

 

i just want to get rid of my Mach 460 Head Unit...the thing is a piece of junk, but the rest of the sound system is nice, and I was trying to figure out a way to keep it all from going to waste.

 

Honestly, i would just scrap the whole thing if you dont want the mach460 headunit.

the Mach460 was a pretty well designed system. Definatly one of the best stock on a sub 30k car. The amps run with funky ohm ratings, they wiring is a bitch, and the amps and headuniit were designed to work together, they are not all that interchangeable.


Can it be done? yeah. it is a PITA though. That harness will make things a bit easier. i udnno.. i consider it more hassle than hoff.

I have the Mach 1k in my stang, never had any thoughts about upgrading or changing it. it has a bit more punch though with the extra 4 amps and 2 subs.

 

why? if i scrap the amps then my interior car speakers will sound like dirt...especially if I turn off the subs. I like my stuff to sound good, and there is no sense scrapping the mach 460 amps and pulling those speakers out, only to have install new speakers, and running new wire from each speaker to the head unit, that's a waste of time, and money.

the way I am doing it, will be easy, because all I have to do is pull the Mach 460 head unit, out, install the metra adapter and the head unit, then wire the subs, and aftermarket amp, and I'm done.

the other way would be a nightmare.

 

you just said what i said in one long post. they dont work in junction meaning they work independently of each other. i dont have the 460 and i can control the subs separately from the rest of the speakers

i use 4 gauge wire for the power and ground and an 18 gauge for the automatic switch from the headunit to the sub.

 

Next time instead of being a jerk you should appreciate that someone was trying to help, especially if you're not going to read their reply correctly. You can have both amps working and not have them connected to each other. I know its the internet and everything, but you could at least attempt to be a little less abrasive all the time.

 

i just misunderstood what he was saying, and then i thought he had misunderstood me.

thanks for the help everone...appreciate it!

 

ok, so i found the subs I'm gonna run

some Kicker Comp VR 12"s

w/ the following Specs

* Subwoofer Size: 12"
* Impedance: 4 ohms
* Dual Voice Coil: Yes
* Peak Power Handling: 800 watts
* RMS Power Handling: 400 watts
* Woofer Surround: Santoprene Rubber
* Woofer Composition: N/A
* Sealed Box Volume: 1.0 - 4.6 cu. ft.
* Ported Box Volume: 1.75 - 2.25 cu. ft.
* Sensitivity: 86.7 dB
* Frequency Response: 25 - 500Hz
* Xmax (millimeters): N/A
* Top Mount Depth: 6-3/16"
* Cutout Diameter: 11-1/8"
* Warranty: 1-year Authorized Manufacturer's


what kind of amp do i need to power these? i want a nice solid thump both inside and outside the car

 

okay well i think now i understand that you misunderstood him but he understood that you misunderstood him. But in the end all is understood right?

 

ok here's the final specs!!!

figured out which amp I'm gonna go with.

JL Audio 500/1 Mono Channel Class D Amp 500W RMSx1

check the wiring schematic if you wanna see more.

this is gonna thump so freakin' hard....woohoo!!!

 

you wont need that cap. there is no point unless your listening to the music real loud, lots of bass, and for a real long time. you'll rattle your brains out before that cap becomes of any use.

rule of thumb for amps is that it should be more than the required rating of the sub. too little watts to the amp will fry the sub.

i run one 12" sub and a 1200 watt amp. the amp is more than sufficient to power 2 subs and all of my speakers/tweeters if i really wanted to put the time and money into it.

 

Wrong section, goes here.

 

id rather be safe than sorry on the capacitor. for only $50 on ebay, i think it;s a good investment, as a battery and car alternator weren't made to handle a high performance car stereo.

just won my JL Audio 500/1 Amp tonight on ebay. It's a monochannel Class D Amp, and whats cool about it, is it can be hooked up to 500Wx1 @ 4 ohms, 500Wx1 @ 2 Ohms, or 500Wx1 @ 1ohm...it is one ohm stable, and will be just perfect for the kickers I'm getting.

My new head unit is on the way as well, along with the dash kit, and metra wiring harnesses, got me a sirius tuner for the head unit to go with it.

now all i need to do is order my subs, my custom enclosure, and my wiring kit, and capacitor, and I'll be good to go! but that will have to wait till closer to Halloween, when I get some more money.