another Venom quesion

arodriguez05 · 11-18-2005, 06:57 PM

I am waiting on some 4.10's to arrive and plan on purchasing the venom kit soon. My question is: does the timing have to be set back with this kit, or does the module handle this? I have read and heard a couple of different things. If so, would it be ok if I just used the speed calibrator when I get my gears and with the nitrous kit installed, or would I just be better off on spending a little more for a custom tuner or chip?

WaterDR · 11-18-2005, 08:02 PM

The Venom computer does NOT alter timing! no matter what anyone says!!!

The text book answer is you should back off one degree of timing for every 50 shot. I retard mine 1 degree and run about an 80 - 100 shot. Often times, I keep my timing stock and don't retard, BUT I also use colder plugs. If it is colder outside, I am more likely to leave timing stock. If it is hot, I always retard the timing.

The whole point of adjusting timing and using colder plugs is to prevent detonation. Weather plays a part in this too.

If you want to play it safe, use one-step colder plugs and retard timing one degree.

But, you can just leave everythig stock.

There are only two guys on this forum that are really experienced with Venom: me and Samstang.

arodriguez05 · 11-18-2005, 10:37 PM

That makes sense... could you point me in the right direction on exactly which plugs I should use and where should I get them at? I will probably end up going with the SCT tuner with one tune for the nitrous and one for without. I only plan on using it when I visit the local track

I am glad to know that someone is experienced with this kit. If it's ok, I will keep in touch on this forum and let you know my progress on the kit after I order it. Thanks for all of your help...

WaterDR · 11-19-2005, 04:24 AM

We are always here to help!

I use Autolite 103 plugs. They are copper and one heat-range colder. You can buy then at ANY auto parts store for the most part and cost about $10 for all 8. You need to gap them a bit tighter then stock. I gap mine at 0.40 where stock it 0.54 if I recall. I use to gap them at 0.35 and I may actually go to 0.45 the next time around. The tighter gap is because the nitrous can blow out the spark and cause a miss.

I used to have an SCT tuner and then changed to an SCT 4 position switch chip. A chip like this allows you to change tunes on the fly. There are advantages of a chip and advantages of a tuner, but if you want to switch at a stop light, this is the only way.

arodriguez05 · 11-19-2005, 12:33 PM

will do...thanks

arodriguez05 · 11-19-2005, 01:42 PM

Where is the easiest place to find the computer code? and what does it look like so I know what to look for? I noticed a bar code sticker on side of the passenger side door, is this it?

WaterDR · 11-19-2005, 02:33 PM

To be sure, I always pull the kick plate off on the passenger side and read the code off of the ECU box. But, you can also find on the side of the door.

arodriguez05 · 11-19-2005, 02:39 PM

that's good to know I will double check, thanks

arodriguez05 · 11-19-2005, 04:09 PM

I just checked the code on the ECU and it matches up with the one on the door jam. I also picked up the plugs and the gap tool. I'll probably gap them at 0.45. Should I just wait until I get the venom kit before I install the plugs? or will the car benefit from the new plugs if I installed them before?

WaterDR · 11-19-2005, 07:39 PM

Regarding the plugs, it really does not matter. There is some logic to installing them now and driving for a bit. Then, before your spray, pull a plug or two and read them. Then, you should be able to see a lot easier if you are runnin glean when you spray. Otherwise, new plugs have white insulators already.

Keep in mind, most people recomend a .35 gap with nitrous and not a .45 gap. Since you are running a Venom system with a fairly conservative shot, .40 - .45 should be fine and is what I would use. You may actually begin to loose a little power n/a if gapped too tight anyway.

Be prepared for cold starts to be a little rough with the colder plugs.

arodriguez05 · 11-19-2005, 11:07 PM

I can imagine, thanks for the warning, but it will probably be worth it

Samsstang · 11-21-2005, 01:29 PM

NGKs TR-6s are good plugs too! I believe part #4177. You can get them at any parts store! I really havent had any problems in cold weather

i live in Colorado

it can get cold! I go weeks without starting mine at times too! if your not running the nitrous any time soon id be careful with the gap, like Blake said

11-18-2005, 06:57 PM	#1 (permalink)
arodriguez05 Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 236	another Venom quesion I am waiting on some 4.10's to arrive and plan on purchasing the venom kit soon. My question is: does the timing have to be set back with this kit, or does the module handle this? I have read and heard a couple of different things. If so, would it be ok if I just used the speed calibrator when I get my gears and with the nitrous kit installed, or would I just be better off on spending a little more for a custom tuner or chip? __________________ 2007 Performance white Mustang GT premium- Steeda cold air kit with inlet elbow, tuned with Xcal2.

11-18-2005, 08:02 PM	#2 (permalink)
WaterDR Administrator Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 6,370	The Venom computer does NOT alter timing! no matter what anyone says!!! The text book answer is you should back off one degree of timing for every 50 shot. I retard mine 1 degree and run about an 80 - 100 shot. Often times, I keep my timing stock and don't retard, BUT I also use colder plugs. If it is colder outside, I am more likely to leave timing stock. If it is hot, I always retard the timing. The whole point of adjusting timing and using colder plugs is to prevent detonation. Weather plays a part in this too. If you want to play it safe, use one-step colder plugs and retard timing one degree. But, you can just leave everythig stock. There are only two guys on this forum that are really experienced with Venom: me and Samstang. __________________ Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump My Car My Email

11-18-2005, 10:37 PM	#3 (permalink)
arodriguez05 Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 236	That makes sense... could you point me in the right direction on exactly which plugs I should use and where should I get them at? I will probably end up going with the SCT tuner with one tune for the nitrous and one for without. I only plan on using it when I visit the local track I am glad to know that someone is experienced with this kit. If it's ok, I will keep in touch on this forum and let you know my progress on the kit after I order it. Thanks for all of your help... __________________ 2007 Performance white Mustang GT premium- Steeda cold air kit with inlet elbow, tuned with Xcal2.

11-19-2005, 04:24 AM	#4 (permalink)
WaterDR Administrator Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 6,370	We are always here to help! I use Autolite 103 plugs. They are copper and one heat-range colder. You can buy then at ANY auto parts store for the most part and cost about $10 for all 8. You need to gap them a bit tighter then stock. I gap mine at 0.40 where stock it 0.54 if I recall. I use to gap them at 0.35 and I may actually go to 0.45 the next time around. The tighter gap is because the nitrous can blow out the spark and cause a miss. I used to have an SCT tuner and then changed to an SCT 4 position switch chip. A chip like this allows you to change tunes on the fly. There are advantages of a chip and advantages of a tuner, but if you want to switch at a stop light, this is the only way. __________________ Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump My Car My Email

11-19-2005, 12:33 PM	#5 (permalink)
arodriguez05 Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 236	will do...thanks __________________ 2007 Performance white Mustang GT premium- Steeda cold air kit with inlet elbow, tuned with Xcal2.

11-19-2005, 01:42 PM	#6 (permalink)
arodriguez05 Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 236	Where is the easiest place to find the computer code? and what does it look like so I know what to look for? I noticed a bar code sticker on side of the passenger side door, is this it? __________________ 2007 Performance white Mustang GT premium- Steeda cold air kit with inlet elbow, tuned with Xcal2.

11-19-2005, 02:33 PM	#7 (permalink)
WaterDR Administrator Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 6,370	To be sure, I always pull the kick plate off on the passenger side and read the code off of the ECU box. But, you can also find on the side of the door. __________________ Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump My Car My Email

11-19-2005, 02:39 PM	#8 (permalink)
arodriguez05 Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 236	that's good to know I will double check, thanks __________________ 2007 Performance white Mustang GT premium- Steeda cold air kit with inlet elbow, tuned with Xcal2.

11-19-2005, 04:09 PM	#9 (permalink)
arodriguez05 Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 236	I just checked the code on the ECU and it matches up with the one on the door jam. I also picked up the plugs and the gap tool. I'll probably gap them at 0.45. Should I just wait until I get the venom kit before I install the plugs? or will the car benefit from the new plugs if I installed them before? __________________ 2007 Performance white Mustang GT premium- Steeda cold air kit with inlet elbow, tuned with Xcal2.

11-19-2005, 07:39 PM	#10 (permalink)
WaterDR Administrator Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 6,370	Regarding the plugs, it really does not matter. There is some logic to installing them now and driving for a bit. Then, before your spray, pull a plug or two and read them. Then, you should be able to see a lot easier if you are runnin glean when you spray. Otherwise, new plugs have white insulators already. Keep in mind, most people recomend a .35 gap with nitrous and not a .45 gap. Since you are running a Venom system with a fairly conservative shot, .40 - .45 should be fine and is what I would use. You may actually begin to loose a little power n/a if gapped too tight anyway. Be prepared for cold starts to be a little rough with the colder plugs. __________________ Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump My Car My Email

11-19-2005, 11:07 PM	#11 (permalink)
arodriguez05 Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 236	I can imagine, thanks for the warning, but it will probably be worth it __________________ 2007 Performance white Mustang GT premium- Steeda cold air kit with inlet elbow, tuned with Xcal2.

11-21-2005, 01:29 PM	#12 (permalink)
Samsstang Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Colorado Posts: 371	NGKs TR-6s are good plugs too! I believe part #4177. You can get them at any parts store! I really havent had any problems in cold weather i live in Colorado it can get cold! I go weeks without starting mine at times too! if your not running the nitrous any time soon id be careful with the gap, like Blake said __________________ 99GT 35th Anniv Edition #4323 01 Roush Stage 2 #6586

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