Dry or Wet Nitrous Systems?

Mustang96GT · 11-27-2006, 03:34 PM

Which is better Dry or Wet Nitrous Systems and what are the differences between the two?Thanks.

jeredan2003 · 11-27-2006, 05:02 PM

ill be nice since this is your first post. Just FYI this topic has been posted about a million times and if you use the search feature you can find ALOT of info on it.

Dry systems are pretty much outdated now. Theres no need for them if you have a window switch. Wet kits make more power and are safer since your not relying on the injectors to pulse more fuel. Go with a wet NX or NOS kit...

*03gtmustang* · 11-27-2006, 06:02 PM

I agree with jeredan2003. Youll see a lot more people running wet kits then dry kits.

And what do you know, all my nitrous stuff is for sale. http://www.mustangboards.com/mustang...y-nitrous.html

cooper · 11-27-2006, 10:09 PM

Have never experienced a dry kit so I honestly couldn't compare but, I love my wet kit!!
Actually, I don't know anyone that has experienced a dry kit....maybe that says something!

Cheers
Cooper

Icefreezen · 11-27-2006, 11:08 PM

Wet kit=safer=more power=teh win

WaterDR · 11-27-2006, 11:59 PM

Wet kits spray nitrus and fuel together. Dry kits spray nitrous separately and rely on injectors to add additional fuel.

There are some seriously fast cars running dry nitrous, but for the most part, you will find cars with larger hits of nitrous running wet.

Wet kits do not make more power. Holy hell, how many times do I need to say this. Nitrous is nitrous. It is the combination of nitrous and fuel that makes power. There is nothing magical about wet kits that result in making more power.

If you take the same amount of nitrous and fuel and add it to a motor with a wet kit or a dry kit with identical air/fuel ratio, you will make the same amount of power. Wet kits don't create energy.

Wet kits are generally more expensive to get all the safety features that you need, then dry kits. Wet kits have more moving parts and thus more things to brake (not that they do). Wet kits are also probably easier to tune.

The problem with dry kits is the risk of running lean. Since you are relying on fuel injectors to add more fuel (via a computer controller) BUT there is no feedback loop. So, if one cyclinder should go lean, party is over. All it takes is one clogged injector and motor is done.

No system is fool-proof. If I were to use nitrous again, I would go wet. But, by the time you have everything you need, bought a tuner, and have the car dyno tuned, you are pretty dam close to buying a nice blower setup.

Icefreezen · 11-28-2006, 03:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WaterDR

Wet kits spray nitrus and fuel together. Dry kits spray nitrous separately and rely on injectors to add additional fuel.

There are some seriously fast cars running dry nitrous, but for the most part, you will find cars with larger hits of nitrous running wet.

Wet kits do not make more power. Holy hell, how many times do I need to say this. Nitrous is nitrous. It is the combination of nitrous and fuel that makes power. There is nothing magical about wet kits that result in making more power.

If you take the same amount of nitrous and fuel and add it to a motor with a wet kit or a dry kit with identical air/fuel ratio, you will make the same amount of power. Wet kits don't create energy.

Wet kits are generally more expensive to get all the safety features that you need, then dry kits. Wet kits have more moving parts and thus more things to brake (not that they do). Wet kits are also probably easier to tune.

The problem with dry kits is the risk of running lean. Since you are relying on fuel injectors to add more fuel (via a computer controller) BUT there is no feedback loop. So, if one cyclinder should go lean, party is over. All it takes is one clogged injector and motor is done.

No system is fool-proof. If I were to use nitrous again, I would go wet. But, by the time you have everything you need, bought a tuner, and have the car dyno tuned, you are pretty dam close to buying a nice blower setup.

I can see if I can pull some dyno charts if you want on the difference between a wet shot and a dry shot and the wet shot made more power.

r3dn3ck · 11-28-2006, 09:48 AM

I have historically seen more power on the dyno with wet kits but I've only ever seen wet kits used with 100hp+ shots so I can't say it's a universal truth.

I'm a fan of the "passing" shot... a nice dry 50-80hp shot with the extra fuel added by the injectors. It's a simple system that even goobers can install with little hassle. It's not a drag racing setup.. it's a freeway playtime setup. I wouldn't ever do a 100+ shot dry. With big shots use the wet kit. With smaller shots stay dry.

Wet kits do keep the initial lean spike down to a reasonable level a little more efficiently than dry kits but on the same shot with the same AF, and same tune efficiency, you'll get the same power. It's a lot easier to get way too rich with a wet kit and that can be just as bad as too lean.

WaterDR · 11-28-2006, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Icefreezen

I can see if I can pull some dyno charts if you want on the difference between a wet shot and a dry shot and the wet shot made more power.

Dude listen....those dyno sdo not prove anything! They are just dynos from cars with nitrous BUT you have no way to know how much juice or fuel is actually added. I am not talking about what a nozzle is tated at....that does not mean crap.

Wet kits do not create hp! The hp comes from the combination of fuel and nitrous. If you take a dry kit and a wet kit and add the exact same amount of nitrous and fuel with the same a/f to each car, you will make the same amount of power. You can't change chemistry. If you believe otherwise, then I have property on the moon to sell you.

WaterDR · 11-28-2006, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by r3dn3ck

I'm a fan of the "passing" shot... a nice dry 50-80hp shot with the extra fuel added by the injectors. It's a simple system that even goobers can install with little hassle. It's not a drag racing setup.. it's a freeway playtime setup. I wouldn't ever do a 100+ shot dry. With big shots use the wet kit. With smaller shots stay dry.

Great point and I have said that many times before. You can run a nice, pretty safe setup with a dry kit and make 60 - 70 rwhp and only have a $500 investment to boot. Stock fuel system too. The $/hp ratio is pretty cheap.

Or, you can spend a lot more money for a wet setup and run 125 rwhp or with the same setup make 300 more rwhp (so long as your motor can stand it). Wet is much better for high-hp applications.

MissGt01 · 11-28-2006, 07:41 PM

I've got a NOS on my GT and I have no clue if it's wet or dry. Some people are telling me it's try, some are telling me it's wet

WaterDR · 11-28-2006, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MissGt01

I've got a NOS on my GT and I have no clue if it's wet or dry. Some people are telling me it's try, some are telling me it's wet

Oh lordy, I am scared - lol

Seriously, no one should be spraying their car unless they have a complete understanding of nitrous...the fact that you don't know what kind of system you have kind of has me concerned. Then again, perhaps your ignorance (I mean that in a nice way) will prevent you from messing with things - LOL

Anyway, if your nitrous line is spraying directly into your intake, then this is most likely a dry system. Unless the line was purposely hidden, this should be obvious to you.

Take a picture of your engine bay.

MissGt01 · 11-28-2006, 08:09 PM

hell
i guess u are right
i should leave it alot.
mine came on the car from previous owner

WaterDR · 11-28-2006, 08:11 PM

I kind of figured as much. Have you sprayed it yet? We can help you make sure it is all working right.

MattJ · 11-28-2006, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WaterDR

Dude listen....those dyno sdo not prove anything! They are just dynos from cars with nitrous BUT you have no way to know how much juice or fuel is actually added. I am not talking about what a nozzle is tated at....that does not mean crap.

Wet kits do not create hp! The hp comes from the combination of fuel and nitrous. If you take a dry kit and a wet kit and add the exact same amount of nitrous and fuel with the same a/f to each car, you will make the same amount of power. You can't change chemistry. If you believe otherwise, then I have property on the moon to sell you.

Im kinda interested in that property you got on the moon. What can you tell me about it...

Icefreezen · 11-28-2006, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattJ

Im kinda interested in that property you got on the moon. What can you tell me about it...

Yeah me too......your just mad you messed your motor up with your dry shot.

WaterDR · 11-28-2006, 09:12 PM

Hey, you do know that the Moon is made of cheese, right Wisconsin boy?

And yes, I am pissed I dicked my motor, but hey, I got a new one and a blower - lol

MissGt01 · 11-28-2006, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WaterDR

I kind of figured as much. Have you sprayed it yet? We can help you make sure it is all working right.

No I have never used it. Everything looks hooked up right.ExceptI found a piece of wire in front of my clutch pedal. It has mini fuse on it. I am thinking that is off of the toggle switch.

http://img96.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc02683xp6.jpg

http://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc02681pz3.jpg

Icefreezen · 11-29-2006, 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MissGt01

No I have never used it. Everything looks hooked up right.ExceptI found a piece of wire in front of my clutch pedal. It has mini fuse on it. I am thinking that is off of the toggle switch.

http://img96.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc02683xp6.jpg

http://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc02681pz3.jpg

IThat to me looks like a Zex wet kit system to me. Cant miss the purple stuff..lol..looks cleanly set up to. I'd just make sure the jets are the correct ones if I were you. You sure thats a piece of wire? That most likely is the WOT switch so when you floor it the nitrous activates. Cool fill the bottle up and have some fun after checking it a bit more in depth.

Find out what shot it is and check to see if the solonoids works.

MissGt01 · 11-29-2006, 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Icefreezen

IThat to me looks like a Zex wet kit system to me. Cant miss the purple stuff..lol..looks cleanly set up to. I'd just make sure the jets are the correct ones if I were you. You sure thats a piece of wire? That most likely is the WOT switch so when you floor it the nitrous activates. Cool fill the bottle up and have some fun after checking it a bit more in depth.

Find out what shot it is and check to see if the solonoids works.

Thanks

My instructions say that it is a wet kit
Previous owner gave me the jets ..And I am sure that it is a piece of wire, cut on each end I think it has something to do with the switch. It fell on the floor 3-4weeks after I bought the car

Icefreezen · 11-29-2006, 02:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MissGt01

Thanks

My instructions say that it is a wet kit
Previous owner gave me the jets ..And I am sure that it is a piece of wire, cut on each end I think it has something to do with the switch. It fell on the floor 3-4weeks after I bought the car

Get another WOT switch and wire it back up nitrous is fun

MissGt01 · 11-29-2006, 05:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Icefreezen

Get another WOT switch and wire it back up nitrous is fun

11-27-2006, 03:34 PM	#1 (permalink)
Mustang96GT Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 7	Dry or Wet Nitrous Systems? Which is better Dry or Wet Nitrous Systems and what are the differences between the two?Thanks.

11-27-2006, 05:02 PM	#2 (permalink)
jeredan2003 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 1,788	ill be nice since this is your first post. Just FYI this topic has been posted about a million times and if you use the search feature you can find ALOT of info on it. Dry systems are pretty much outdated now. Theres no need for them if you have a window switch. Wet kits make more power and are safer since your not relying on the injectors to pulse more fuel. Go with a wet NX or NOS kit... __________________ 2003 DSG GT 5-speed Hellion 62mm and Flowmaster catback..... My bonestock 2v engine had been through 2 years of NX 100 shot, 3 years running 8-12lbs vortech s-trim, got into boost daily while racing on the weekends, had 157,000 miles on it, and was running like new

11-27-2006, 06:02 PM	#3 (permalink)
03gtmustang Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Northern Va Posts: 3,245	I agree with jeredan2003. Youll see a lot more people running wet kits then dry kits. And what do you know, all my nitrous stuff is for sale. http://www.mustangboards.com/mustang...y-nitrous.html __________________ D&D Auto Detailing -Dan

11-27-2006, 10:09 PM	#4 (permalink)
cooper Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: New Mexico Posts: 65	Have never experienced a dry kit so I honestly couldn't compare but, I love my wet kit!! Actually, I don't know anyone that has experienced a dry kit....maybe that says something! Cheers Cooper __________________ 2005 Red Fire GT Pypes Axle back, Pypes Off road X, 4:10's

11-27-2006, 11:08 PM	#5 (permalink)
Icefreezen Mustang Superman Join Date: May 2005 Location: Your mom's bed Posts: 3,908	Wet kit=safer=more power=teh win __________________

11-27-2006, 11:59 PM	#6 (permalink)
WaterDR Administrator Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 6,374	Wet kits spray nitrus and fuel together. Dry kits spray nitrous separately and rely on injectors to add additional fuel. There are some seriously fast cars running dry nitrous, but for the most part, you will find cars with larger hits of nitrous running wet. Wet kits do not make more power. Holy hell, how many times do I need to say this. Nitrous is nitrous. It is the combination of nitrous and fuel that makes power. There is nothing magical about wet kits that result in making more power. If you take the same amount of nitrous and fuel and add it to a motor with a wet kit or a dry kit with identical air/fuel ratio, you will make the same amount of power. Wet kits don't create energy. Wet kits are generally more expensive to get all the safety features that you need, then dry kits. Wet kits have more moving parts and thus more things to brake (not that they do). Wet kits are also probably easier to tune. The problem with dry kits is the risk of running lean. Since you are relying on fuel injectors to add more fuel (via a computer controller) BUT there is no feedback loop. So, if one cyclinder should go lean, party is over. All it takes is one clogged injector and motor is done. No system is fool-proof. If I were to use nitrous again, I would go wet. But, by the time you have everything you need, bought a tuner, and have the car dyno tuned, you are pretty dam close to buying a nice blower setup. __________________ Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump My Car My Email

11-28-2006, 09:48 AM	#8 (permalink)
r3dn3ck Wowbagger hates me too! Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Magrathea/California Posts: 7,015	I have historically seen more power on the dyno with wet kits but I've only ever seen wet kits used with 100hp+ shots so I can't say it's a universal truth. I'm a fan of the "passing" shot... a nice dry 50-80hp shot with the extra fuel added by the injectors. It's a simple system that even goobers can install with little hassle. It's not a drag racing setup.. it's a freeway playtime setup. I wouldn't ever do a 100+ shot dry. With big shots use the wet kit. With smaller shots stay dry. Wet kits do keep the initial lean spike down to a reasonable level a little more efficiently than dry kits but on the same shot with the same AF, and same tune efficiency, you'll get the same power. It's a lot easier to get way too rich with a wet kit and that can be just as bad as too lean.

11-28-2006, 07:41 PM	#11 (permalink)
MissGt01 Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Bowling Green, Ky Posts: 85	I've got a NOS on my GT and I have no clue if it's wet or dry. Some people are telling me it's try, some are telling me it's wet

11-28-2006, 08:09 PM	#13 (permalink)
MissGt01 Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Bowling Green, Ky Posts: 85	hell i guess u are right i should leave it alot. mine came on the car from previous owner

11-28-2006, 08:11 PM	#14 (permalink)
WaterDR Administrator Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 6,374	I kind of figured as much. Have you sprayed it yet? We can help you make sure it is all working right. __________________ Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump My Car My Email

11-28-2006, 09:12 PM	#17 (permalink)
WaterDR Administrator Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 6,374	Hey, you do know that the Moon is made of cheese, right Wisconsin boy? And yes, I am pissed I dicked my motor, but hey, I got a new one and a blower - lol __________________ Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump My Car My Email