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Old 11-27-2006, 03:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
Mustang96GT
Default Dry or Wet Nitrous Systems?

Which is better Dry or Wet Nitrous Systems and what are the differences between the two?Thanks.
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Old 11-27-2006, 05:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
jeredan2003
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ill be nice since this is your first post. Just FYI this topic has been posted about a million times and if you use the search feature you can find ALOT of info on it.

Dry systems are pretty much outdated now. Theres no need for them if you have a window switch. Wet kits make more power and are safer since your not relying on the injectors to pulse more fuel. Go with a wet NX or NOS kit...
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Old 11-27-2006, 06:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
03gtmustang
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I agree with jeredan2003. Youll see a lot more people running wet kits then dry kits.

And what do you know, all my nitrous stuff is for sale. http://www.mustangboards.com/mustang...y-nitrous.html
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Old 11-27-2006, 10:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
cooper
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Have never experienced a dry kit so I honestly couldn't compare but, I love my wet kit!!
Actually, I don't know anyone that has experienced a dry kit....maybe that says something!
Cheers
Cooper
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Old 11-27-2006, 11:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
Icefreezen
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Wet kit=safer=more power=teh win
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Old 11-27-2006, 11:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
WaterDR
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Wet kits spray nitrus and fuel together. Dry kits spray nitrous separately and rely on injectors to add additional fuel.

There are some seriously fast cars running dry nitrous, but for the most part, you will find cars with larger hits of nitrous running wet.

Wet kits do not make more power. Holy hell, how many times do I need to say this. Nitrous is nitrous. It is the combination of nitrous and fuel that makes power. There is nothing magical about wet kits that result in making more power.

If you take the same amount of nitrous and fuel and add it to a motor with a wet kit or a dry kit with identical air/fuel ratio, you will make the same amount of power. Wet kits don't create energy.

Wet kits are generally more expensive to get all the safety features that you need, then dry kits. Wet kits have more moving parts and thus more things to brake (not that they do). Wet kits are also probably easier to tune.

The problem with dry kits is the risk of running lean. Since you are relying on fuel injectors to add more fuel (via a computer controller) BUT there is no feedback loop. So, if one cyclinder should go lean, party is over. All it takes is one clogged injector and motor is done.

No system is fool-proof. If I were to use nitrous again, I would go wet. But, by the time you have everything you need, bought a tuner, and have the car dyno tuned, you are pretty dam close to buying a nice blower setup.
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Hi-Tech Stage 2 Cam; LT's; ProChamber with SLP LM1 cat back; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump (waiting on dyno)
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Old 11-28-2006, 03:26 AM   #7 (permalink)
Icefreezen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterDR View Post
Wet kits spray nitrus and fuel together. Dry kits spray nitrous separately and rely on injectors to add additional fuel.

There are some seriously fast cars running dry nitrous, but for the most part, you will find cars with larger hits of nitrous running wet.

Wet kits do not make more power. Holy hell, how many times do I need to say this. Nitrous is nitrous. It is the combination of nitrous and fuel that makes power. There is nothing magical about wet kits that result in making more power.

If you take the same amount of nitrous and fuel and add it to a motor with a wet kit or a dry kit with identical air/fuel ratio, you will make the same amount of power. Wet kits don't create energy.

Wet kits are generally more expensive to get all the safety features that you need, then dry kits. Wet kits have more moving parts and thus more things to brake (not that they do). Wet kits are also probably easier to tune.

The problem with dry kits is the risk of running lean. Since you are relying on fuel injectors to add more fuel (via a computer controller) BUT there is no feedback loop. So, if one cyclinder should go lean, party is over. All it takes is one clogged injector and motor is done.

No system is fool-proof. If I were to use nitrous again, I would go wet. But, by the time you have everything you need, bought a tuner, and have the car dyno tuned, you are pretty dam close to buying a nice blower setup.
I can see if I can pull some dyno charts if you want on the difference between a wet shot and a dry shot and the wet shot made more power.
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Old 11-28-2006, 09:48 AM   #8 (permalink)
r3dn3ck
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I have historically seen more power on the dyno with wet kits but I've only ever seen wet kits used with 100hp+ shots so I can't say it's a universal truth.

I'm a fan of the "passing" shot... a nice dry 50-80hp shot with the extra fuel added by the injectors. It's a simple system that even goobers can install with little hassle. It's not a drag racing setup.. it's a freeway playtime setup. I wouldn't ever do a 100+ shot dry. With big shots use the wet kit. With smaller shots stay dry.

Wet kits do keep the initial lean spike down to a reasonable level a little more efficiently than dry kits but on the same shot with the same AF, and same tune efficiency, you'll get the same power. It's a lot easier to get way too rich with a wet kit and that can be just as bad as too lean.
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Old 11-28-2006, 04:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
WaterDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icefreezen View Post
I can see if I can pull some dyno charts if you want on the difference between a wet shot and a dry shot and the wet shot made more power.
Dude listen....those dyno sdo not prove anything! They are just dynos from cars with nitrous BUT you have no way to know how much juice or fuel is actually added. I am not talking about what a nozzle is tated at....that does not mean crap.

Wet kits do not create hp! The hp comes from the combination of fuel and nitrous. If you take a dry kit and a wet kit and add the exact same amount of nitrous and fuel with the same a/f to each car, you will make the same amount of power. You can't change chemistry. If you believe otherwise, then I have property on the moon to sell you.
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Hi-Tech Stage 2 Cam; LT's; ProChamber with SLP LM1 cat back; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump (waiting on dyno)
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Old 11-28-2006, 04:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
WaterDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r3dn3ck View Post
I'm a fan of the "passing" shot... a nice dry 50-80hp shot with the extra fuel added by the injectors. It's a simple system that even goobers can install with little hassle. It's not a drag racing setup.. it's a freeway playtime setup. I wouldn't ever do a 100+ shot dry. With big shots use the wet kit. With smaller shots stay dry.
Great point and I have said that many times before. You can run a nice, pretty safe setup with a dry kit and make 60 - 70 rwhp and only have a $500 investment to boot. Stock fuel system too. The $/hp ratio is pretty cheap.

Or, you can spend a lot more money for a wet setup and run 125 rwhp or with the same setup make 300 more rwhp (so long as your motor can stand it). Wet is much better for high-hp applications.
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Black 2000 GT Vert:
Hi-Tech Stage 2 Cam; LT's; ProChamber with SLP LM1 cat back; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump (waiting on dyno)
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Old 11-28-2006, 07:41 PM   #11 (permalink)
MissGt01
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I've got a NOS on my GT and I have no clue if it's wet or dry. Some people are telling me it's try, some are telling me it's wet
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Old 11-28-2006, 08:07 PM   #12 (permalink)
WaterDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MissGt01 View Post
I've got a NOS on my GT and I have no clue if it's wet or dry. Some people are telling me it's try, some are telling me it's wet
Oh lordy, I am scared - lol

Seriously, no one should be spraying their car unless they have a complete understanding of nitrous...the fact that you don't know what kind of system you have kind of has me concerned. Then again, perhaps your ignorance (I mean that in a nice way) will prevent you from messing with things - LOL

Anyway, if your nitrous line is spraying directly into your intake, then this is most likely a dry system. Unless the line was purposely hidden, this should be obvious to you.

Take a picture of your engine bay.
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Black 2000 GT Vert:
Hi-Tech Stage 2 Cam; LT's; ProChamber with SLP LM1 cat back; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump (waiting on dyno)
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Old 11-28-2006, 08:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
MissGt01
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hell
i guess u are right
i should leave it alot.
mine came on the car from previous owner
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Old 11-28-2006, 08:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
WaterDR
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I kind of figured as much. Have you sprayed it yet? We can help you make sure it is all working right.
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Hi-Tech Stage 2 Cam; LT's; ProChamber with SLP LM1 cat back; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump (waiting on dyno)
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Old 11-28-2006, 08:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
MattJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterDR View Post
Dude listen....those dyno sdo not prove anything! They are just dynos from cars with nitrous BUT you have no way to know how much juice or fuel is actually added. I am not talking about what a nozzle is tated at....that does not mean crap.

Wet kits do not create hp! The hp comes from the combination of fuel and nitrous. If you take a dry kit and a wet kit and add the exact same amount of nitrous and fuel with the same a/f to each car, you will make the same amount of power. You can't change chemistry. If you believe otherwise, then I have property on the moon to sell you.
Im kinda interested in that property you got on the moon. What can you tell me about it...
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Old 11-28-2006, 09:02 PM   #16 (permalink)
Icefreezen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattJ View Post
Im kinda interested in that property you got on the moon. What can you tell me about it...
Yeah me too......your just mad you messed your motor up with your dry shot.
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Old 11-28-2006, 09:12 PM   #17 (permalink)
WaterDR
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Hey, you do know that the Moon is made of cheese, right Wisconsin boy?

And yes, I am pissed I dicked my motor, but hey, I got a new one and a blower - lol
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Black 2000 GT Vert:
Hi-Tech Stage 2 Cam; LT's; ProChamber with SLP LM1 cat back; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump (waiting on dyno)
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Old 11-28-2006, 11:25 PM   #18 (permalink)
MissGt01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterDR View Post
I kind of figured as much. Have you sprayed it yet? We can help you make sure it is all working right.
No I have never used it. Everything looks hooked up right.ExceptI found a piece of wire in front of my clutch pedal. It has mini fuse on it. I am thinking that is off of the toggle switch.

http://img96.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc02683xp6.jpg

http://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc02681pz3.jpg
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Old 11-29-2006, 12:19 AM   #19 (permalink)
Icefreezen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MissGt01 View Post
No I have never used it. Everything looks hooked up right.ExceptI found a piece of wire in front of my clutch pedal. It has mini fuse on it. I am thinking that is off of the toggle switch.

http://img96.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc02683xp6.jpg

http://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc02681pz3.jpg

IThat to me looks like a Zex wet kit system to me. Cant miss the purple stuff..lol..looks cleanly set up to. I'd just make sure the jets are the correct ones if I were you. You sure thats a piece of wire? That most likely is the WOT switch so when you floor it the nitrous activates. Cool fill the bottle up and have some fun after checking it a bit more in depth. Find out what shot it is and check to see if the solonoids works.
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Old 11-29-2006, 12:23 AM   #20 (permalink)
MissGt01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icefreezen View Post
IThat to me looks like a Zex wet kit system to me. Cant miss the purple stuff..lol..looks cleanly set up to. I'd just make sure the jets are the correct ones if I were you. You sure thats a piece of wire? That most likely is the WOT switch so when you floor it the nitrous activates. Cool fill the bottle up and have some fun after checking it a bit more in depth. Find out what shot it is and check to see if the solonoids works.
Thanks
My instructions say that it is a wet kit
Previous owner gave me the jets ..And I am sure that it is a piece of wire, cut on each end I think it has something to do with the switch. It fell on the floor 3-4weeks after I bought the car
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Old 11-29-2006, 02:25 AM   #21 (permalink)
Icefreezen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MissGt01 View Post
Thanks
My instructions say that it is a wet kit
Previous owner gave me the jets ..And I am sure that it is a piece of wire, cut on each end I think it has something to do with the switch. It fell on the floor 3-4weeks after I bought the car

Get another WOT switch and wire it back up nitrous is fun
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Old 11-29-2006, 05:08 AM   #22 (permalink)
MissGt01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icefreezen View Post
Get another WOT switch and wire it back up nitrous is fun
cool
Thanks for the help
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Old 11-29-2006, 03:15 PM   #23 (permalink)
WaterDR
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If you want to play it safe, have it checked-out by a tuner shop. There should be one in your area as you are new a major track.

When you do start to spray, NEVER advance the timing. Also, if you ever hear pinging, lift off the gas and don't spray until you know why there is a problem.
__________________


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Hi-Tech Stage 2 Cam; LT's; ProChamber with SLP LM1 cat back; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump (waiting on dyno)
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Old 11-29-2006, 03:28 PM   #24 (permalink)
MissGt01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterDR View Post
If you want to play it safe, have it checked-out by a tuner shop. There should be one in your area as you are new a major track.

When you do start to spray, NEVER advance the timing. Also, if you ever hear pinging, lift off the gas and don't spray until you know why there is a problem.
Yea there us a tuner shop close. Well my cousin deals with NOS so I'll just have him do it
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Old 11-29-2006, 04:23 PM   #25 (permalink)
r3dn3ck
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you'll want to find someone local to you that KNOWS what they're looking at to go over your system and check it out for you. Zex is a good kit so once it's hooked up right you'll be doing ok. You should still get on a dyno and have the af ratio checked with the gas on before you hit it on the street.

I'm figuring you're probably a girl (given your screen name), which means any of the guys on this site would probably be more than happy to scope your backside while checking the nitrous system out. If you're not a girl... DAMN DUDE!
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Old 11-29-2006, 05:22 PM   #26 (permalink)
MissGt01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r3dn3ck View Post
you'll want to find someone local to you that KNOWS what they're looking at to go over your system and check it out for you. Zex is a good kit so once it's hooked up right you'll be doing ok. You should still get on a dyno and have the af ratio checked with the gas on before you hit it on the street.

I'm figuring you're probably a girl (given your screen name), which means any of the guys on this site would probably be more than happy to scope your backside while checking the nitrous system out. If you're not a girl... DAMN DUDE!
Yes I am, very cute GIRL hahaha
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Old 11-30-2006, 09:29 AM   #27 (permalink)
jeredan2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterDR View Post

Wet kits do not create hp! The hp comes from the combination of fuel and nitrous. If you take a dry kit and a wet kit and add the exact same amount of nitrous and fuel with the same a/f to each car, you will make the same amount of power. You can't change chemistry. If you believe otherwise, then I have property on the moon to sell you.
Yes wet kits DO create HP. Its cause your adding fuel from the injectors AND from the intake charge.
__________________
2003 DSG GT 5-speed
Hellion 62mm and Flowmaster catback.....

My bonestock 2v engine had been through 2 years of NX 100 shot, 3 years running 8-12lbs vortech s-trim, got into boost daily while racing on the weekends, had 157,000 miles on it, and was running like new
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Old 11-30-2006, 08:40 PM   #28 (permalink)
WaterDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeredan2003 View Post
Yes wet kits DO create HP. Its cause your adding fuel from the injectors AND from the intake charge.
Dah!!! But that is not what I meant. Of course nitrous setups make hp from nitrous and fuel, but what I meant is that there is not special synergy with a wet kit that miraculously creates even more hp. They make hp....they don't create hp.
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Hi-Tech Stage 2 Cam; LT's; ProChamber with SLP LM1 cat back; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump (waiting on dyno)
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Old 11-30-2006, 10:14 PM   #29 (permalink)
Codiddy
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I think what waterDR is trying to say is that the only reason wet kits tend to make more power is because they also use extra gas.
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Not true. I too have a 6 and I still don't give a **** about what you say...
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Old 12-01-2006, 03:37 PM   #30 (permalink)
ernest russell
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Originally Posted by MissGt01 View Post
Yes I am, very cute GIRL hahaha
yes,some of us were lucky enough to see her nice picture!!
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Old 12-01-2006, 03:37 PM
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