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Alpine head unit w/ipod cable
JL 500/1 amp
JL 300/4 amp
JL 10" subs (removable box for track days)
Polk component speakers in door
Polk 5x7's in rear seat area.
Optima Red Top

 

Car audio! now you are talkin my kinda language! looks good man and bet it sounds nice.

 

nice...what is it in? is that a fox?

 

I like it Matt. Only thing I have to take it back for is to turn the subs down at the amp just a hair. Reason: I have the bass set at 0, the treble set at zero, and the subs set at 0.

Now, I don't know if it's cause they have the power turned up a little high on the amps, but those things still hit a little hard at this setting. I'd like to turn em down a bit making it so I can get a little more controllability at at the head unit itself. I know it's just a little scre on the amp, but will it say "gain", "power" on the amp itself? This is something I can do myself correct?

 

i have that head unit...but with a single 8" JL W7 which probably thumps just as good as 3 of those lower grade JL's

 

Sweet install. Only problem i can guess at right off the bat is that them subs have to sit really close to the hatch when its closed. It looks like if you shut the hatch the subs would almost touch. Looks great though, just be careful not to blow that hatch off!

 

Id check the gains on the amps. Without getting into the technical audio mumbojumbo, your gains on your amps probably shouldnt be past halfway. I dont know the range of your amp's gain but im guessing its .2v to 8v if I took a swing in the dark. You can always turn them down a little and fine tune through the headunit once you have the results you like.

Remember gains on an amp isnt a volume ****, its to match your head units pre-out voltage. You can cause a clipping signal from your amps which create heat, if they are turned up too high. Heat causes thermal failure in subs (IE burned coils, melted pole, ect..) and you then have a paperweight.

 

Thank you for the help. I'll start by turning the gain down and see what happens.

 

nice