View Poll Results: What are your 5.4L swap plans?
Voters: 220. You may not vote on this poll
Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine.
#1231
if u want, bore and stroke a 4.6 to a 5.1 and then s/c it. you'll be rewarded with some nice numbers i'm sure. but if u put a mild 5.4 in a stang and tehn s/c it, you'll have neck snapping torque and bigger hp numbers.
#1232
OK so i guess a 5.4L 3v wont work, so what did the 2v 5.4L go in? and what are the hp.torque numbers of these engines? i just really liekd the 3v because out of the box you get 300hp and 365 lb-ft. of torque, through the chip foose f150 engine i found for 2k was 350hp/ 410lb-ft...even nicer. If im going to be spending over 4k then i might as well just supercharger my 4.6 2v, it can take 12 psi without harming it, and i figure if i run 10psi that gets me deep into the 400hp/400lb-ft. range...and i can drive it everyday. versus a built 330 2v producing the same power that will guzzle the hell out of gas.
the 5.4 2v came in f series trucks, e series vans, expeditions, 98 navigators, and similar size vehicles
#1233
Ok since i threw a rod in the 01 GT, I am going try this swap. I found a 2004 Expedition with 36000 miles on the it. I have an automatic. What do I need else do I need besides the adapter plates and some exhaust work.....
#1234
that's exactly why i'm going to do this setup....I was so ready to have my 4.6 built up and then put a KB ontop but then I saw this and said that if i want that nice street torque and high HP then why not go a big block setup...and this is what's here for us looking for that...so I say 5.4 all the way and... to really kick it in to gear...thanks for taking the time to read this....
#1238
you'll want a donor 5.4L 2v at minimum... you can buy a smoked motor for cheap at a junkyard (www.car-part.com) and use it as a donor for all the little pins and bolts and covers and such. As long as it wasn't too badly whipped it'll be good for parts.
Then buy a shortblock complete and have your heads stuck on it. All the little stuff for my motor amounted to almost 1000 bucks. On top of the 500 for pistons, 325 for rods, 200 for bearings, 350 for fasteners, 250 for machining, 800 for assembly, and then 250 for bigger injectors, and my 375 dollar adaptor plates. I'm about 4K into it (not counting heads, cams, intake, nitrous, braided lines, fuel system, etc...). I had the issue of needing to spread the cost over time so it cost me more. You're doing it all at once... so you can save a little on the pre-built short block.
Check out MMR, BOSS330 Racing and VT engines. They're all pretty damn good. CHP has had kinda too many issues with their modular motors for my taste. Let them stick with pushrods... they do those well. Leave the modulars to modular racers.
I'm using MMR to build all my stuff.
Then buy a shortblock complete and have your heads stuck on it. All the little stuff for my motor amounted to almost 1000 bucks. On top of the 500 for pistons, 325 for rods, 200 for bearings, 350 for fasteners, 250 for machining, 800 for assembly, and then 250 for bigger injectors, and my 375 dollar adaptor plates. I'm about 4K into it (not counting heads, cams, intake, nitrous, braided lines, fuel system, etc...). I had the issue of needing to spread the cost over time so it cost me more. You're doing it all at once... so you can save a little on the pre-built short block.
Check out MMR, BOSS330 Racing and VT engines. They're all pretty damn good. CHP has had kinda too many issues with their modular motors for my taste. Let them stick with pushrods... they do those well. Leave the modulars to modular racers.
I'm using MMR to build all my stuff.
*Cast Iron 5.4 Block
*New 4340 Forged 4.165 Crankshaft, includes additional heat treat w/micro polished journals at no extra charge
*New 4340 6.658 Manley Pro-series Rods ( These US made rods are shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched to bring you the finest I-beam rod available for your 5.4
*New Forged Manley pistons 3.552 Bore size (High or low compression)
*Speed Pro file fit rings (precision file fit to your application, nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)
*Federal Mogul Competition series heat treated Rod and Main bearings
*ARP main stud kit for maintaining correct cap location under the hardest of loads
*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving shortblock available.
*Due to the custom nature of MMR shortblocks ALL customers paying with a credit card
will be billed when the order is placed (prior to engine assembly and shipping),
All MMR shortblocks are non-refundable regardless if the item has shipped or not.
501100 $4499
I saw this at that MMR you advised what do you think of this setup...do you think it's worth it I do...then all i have to do is pick a good set of Cams and get my heads cleaned up and I'm good to go N/A then grab my SC later.....thanks for taking the time to read this....
#1240
yup, it should be a mad one...i definately want to run it NA for a while and see what it puts out..especially if it's made to handle that..i'm gonna see what i can get...i just have to figure out what cams to get for it and i'll be good to go and if all goes well while i'm out to sea then come thanksgiving i'll be rip roaring the streets in CA....hopefully i can stop by and see r3d some time while i'm up that way....thanks for taking the time to read this....
#1243
As i said, a Vortech SQ 2 V series will put me around 440hp and 430lb-ft in my 4.6L 2V. for 4500 bucks. how much would it take to get a 5.4L 2V motor to be in the same range and have it reliable enough to drive every day infront of a tk3650 tranny?
#1246
trying to get 440 out of an un-built 4.6 is asking to break it into bite size pieces. You have to run a lot of boost to get there and the stock 4.6 2v will not last long at those levels.. if it even makes it through the dyno tuning. So, add $3K for a forged motor that will last while running enough boost to see 440rwhp. For 7.5K you can have quite a bit of power out of any ol' engine.
a 3650 will last no longer behind a blown 4.6 than it will a NA or blown 5.4. If you're asking this question then you plan on flogging it well, so all bets are off. You can frag a tko600 with a stock 4.6 if you try hard enough so saying it'll last x amount of time is kinda pointless.
Every pound of boost you give a 4.6 returns a smaller amount of hp than the same pound of boost in a 5.4 and only a fraction of the tq. If bigger inches aren't your basic desire, then you're a 4.6 guy and that's cool. All of us that are doing this know that bigger inches = bigger power potential and we're doing what we can individually to maximize the returns we get from other upgrades, like blowers and nitrous and turbos.
#1247
nope that's a decent price for a good condition runner... BTW that's a 3v motor. 03 and earlier are 2v.
#1249
that would be a good idea but i think i'm going to wait until i get back from sea then have it done...i might do some of the work myself to help cut back on the cost...but other then that if all goes well i should be done come thanksgiving time...but i'm not sure if i'm going to take leave then or if i should just hold of till Christmas time to come home...but I should be done come November 07...the price might even go lower around then as well...thanks for taking the time to read this...
#1251
Hey,
I'm still trying to decide on the type of SC to get..i know that a KB builds off idle..and the T-trim (not sure if CA legal) builds off high rpm and all....but i'm wondering is it really necessary to get the KB if i have a well built 5.4 then the TQ is already there and I can get away with a T-trim (if legal) for the street correct...thanks for taking the time to read this...
I'm still trying to decide on the type of SC to get..i know that a KB builds off idle..and the T-trim (not sure if CA legal) builds off high rpm and all....but i'm wondering is it really necessary to get the KB if i have a well built 5.4 then the TQ is already there and I can get away with a T-trim (if legal) for the street correct...thanks for taking the time to read this...
#1253
Ok i must read this whole thing once a week and change my mind on what I want to do everyday so I am just going to start with a budget and then hopefully that will make my decisions a little easier. So what would you (the experts on this subject) do with a 4,000 dollar budget (this is what the wife is allowing me)
#1255
^^ that guy is a local out here in California. Car makes 340/340 at the wheels on 9.7:1.
Mine is so close to being done I can taste it. Looks like probably may before the motor actually goes in though.
#1256
Ok i must read this whole thing once a week and change my mind on what I want to do everyday so I am just going to start with a budget and then hopefully that will make my decisions a little easier. So what would you (the experts on this subject) do with a 4,000 dollar budget (this is what the wife is allowing me)
Whether or not you can do more than just a stock 5.4 and the minimal stuff it takes to bolt it up and get it tuned, you've still got a superior foundation for future tinkerings. If you decide later you can put more money into it then have the bottom end built, or add ported heads and all the stuff you'd normally do to a 4.6 and largely in the same order. The thing I'd do first is cams, then heads and intake.
#1259
Hey guys, i was linked here from corral.net and man i have to say, this is the most beastly thread to try to read, i've been reading for 3 days and i'm still only on page 24. anyway, i was interested in doing the swap and everyone on corral was talking junk about me for wanting to do it but someone pointed me here. Man, i love the idea of putting this motor in my car. I was half way done with the 98 4v swap, just needed a long block......needless to say i'm selling it to do the 5.4 2v swap. SOOOOOOO NIIIICCCCEEEE Anyway, just a couple questions. I'm sorry but i can't invest any more time lurking and looking through another 1000 post.
1st) Is there any problem with the alt bracket not hooking up right?
2nd) Do you need to put 24 lbs injectors for the engine to run right or will 19's be good?
3rd) Has any of the intakes come out yet?
4th) Is anyone makeing the adapters besides RR and if so could you point me in that way.
5th) Do you have to bend any lines or anything to get the front drives to work? like the power stearing pump?
6th) Someone told me that i wouldn't be able to have power stearing and brakes because the thing was too wide and it wouldn't work with the booster? is that right?
7th) Would a vortec s trim for a mustang bolt up with no problems?
8th) What is the stock compression on these motors?
Thanks , thats all i can think of for now. I'm really into this swap b/c it seems to easy to be true and i need need need the torque with my heavy vert. I want to be able to look at z28's and go
1st) Is there any problem with the alt bracket not hooking up right?
2nd) Do you need to put 24 lbs injectors for the engine to run right or will 19's be good?
3rd) Has any of the intakes come out yet?
4th) Is anyone makeing the adapters besides RR and if so could you point me in that way.
5th) Do you have to bend any lines or anything to get the front drives to work? like the power stearing pump?
6th) Someone told me that i wouldn't be able to have power stearing and brakes because the thing was too wide and it wouldn't work with the booster? is that right?
7th) Would a vortec s trim for a mustang bolt up with no problems?
8th) What is the stock compression on these motors?
Thanks , thats all i can think of for now. I'm really into this swap b/c it seems to easy to be true and i need need need the torque with my heavy vert. I want to be able to look at z28's and go
#1260
no problem...it's gotten pretty long.
You use the stock intake or a stock replacement intake so the alt bracket works fine as far as I know.
you should probably run 24's for a totally stock 5.4 2v and 30 or higher if your power levels start climbing. I've had several builders tell me to just start at 30's and go from there. I plan on doing at least that.
the adapter plates are the best current option other than hacked on lightning lowers. I'm using a HPS intake that I've ported the snot out of with a set of port matched plates.
Noone else has a set of plates out yet but they will soon.
No line bending should be needed. A little fiddling with the heater lines on the rear passenger side of the motor from what I hear but nothing metal.
#6 is total bullshit. Tell them they're ignorant and to get better info or stfu. It's a tight fit but it does in fact fit.
there will be some bracketing details with a blower. Vortech should be able to be very helpful with this.
Stock it's 9.4:1 static.
A stock 5.4 mustang with a good tune is a serious threat to camaros. It'll at least surprise the hell out of them.
You were prepared to go 4v and I'd say if you're still down for that then a 4v 5.4 would have a lot more potential. It'll still fit but exhaust will be more fun and intakes are readily available if a little pricey (sullivan).
Here's proof it works... his was already working but he had a rod bust and did a fully built 5.4 to replace it. http://www.illwillinc.com/97mustang.htm
You use the stock intake or a stock replacement intake so the alt bracket works fine as far as I know.
you should probably run 24's for a totally stock 5.4 2v and 30 or higher if your power levels start climbing. I've had several builders tell me to just start at 30's and go from there. I plan on doing at least that.
the adapter plates are the best current option other than hacked on lightning lowers. I'm using a HPS intake that I've ported the snot out of with a set of port matched plates.
Noone else has a set of plates out yet but they will soon.
No line bending should be needed. A little fiddling with the heater lines on the rear passenger side of the motor from what I hear but nothing metal.
#6 is total bullshit. Tell them they're ignorant and to get better info or stfu. It's a tight fit but it does in fact fit.
there will be some bracketing details with a blower. Vortech should be able to be very helpful with this.
Stock it's 9.4:1 static.
A stock 5.4 mustang with a good tune is a serious threat to camaros. It'll at least surprise the hell out of them.
You were prepared to go 4v and I'd say if you're still down for that then a 4v 5.4 would have a lot more potential. It'll still fit but exhaust will be more fun and intakes are readily available if a little pricey (sullivan).
Here's proof it works... his was already working but he had a rod bust and did a fully built 5.4 to replace it. http://www.illwillinc.com/97mustang.htm