what about my trans. it will have probably 200K miles byt the time of the swap. what should i do in order for it to handle the power?

 

are these good deals? sorry for all the links:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

 

Do not get the 5.4l block in the link! That one is junk!

 

lol ok. whats wrong with it so i know what to look for.

 

Don't really want one that states "needs welding"!

Look for one that is together and with no problems. Just a long block is needed. Even one that has 200,000 mile will be just fine as long it has no problems. Such as a statement "ran before pulled" "can hear run".

 

k cool. u check out the other links by any chance?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...Q5fAccessories

 

I did and responded, but took to long in my responce, so it boot me off! Had a whole page wrote up!

Assuming the crank is good
Get the rod bearings!
The main bearings are alittle steep! Clevite makes some as well as Federl Mogul $90
Head gasket swap kit from ford includes bolts and head gaskets as well as a dipstick tube. $120 shipped
Go to Dealership and get the TTY main bolts $30

 

r3dn3ck, where should I look for the difference in blower/intercooler setups for the L and 03 cobra. I know I have seen them both broken down in articles.

 

Hey guys! On the average, what would it cost to get a shortblock rebuilt? Here's the details on a motor some one is selling that might be interested in.




-ported PI heads $1200
includes, beehive springs and titanuim retainers. and ARP head studs

-Comp stage II blower cams $450

*heads and cams together for $1500

-5.4 short block $800
manley rods, probe pistons, steel forged crank. arp studded mains etc.
*started knocking*

*will sell longblock for 2k





Too much for used heads???

 

TTY main bolts?

 

96blackgt i had to look at the block on ebay since you said needed welding lol thats some funny **** 150 bucks for a block with a hole in it? thats crazy that guy is ignorant then he has the nerve to say will weld for a fee ,then he says shipping starts out at 125 , what!! he gives you a check list a mile long with things wrong with it , thats almost 500.00 for a that bullshit, then you have machine shop cost, you can buy a brand new 5.4 block ready to build for 500.00 bucks from mmr or ford racing

i have 3 5.4 blocks and 4 sets of p.i heads i am keeping 2of the blocks though but if someone is having a hard time finding a 5.4 block i will be more than glad to donate it to the cause but the only catch is i misplaced 3 of the main caps but you can get new ones,or i might get lucky and dig them up, but its a 2001 block, needs bored (rusty cylinders) and then line bored the main caps but its just sitting i will prob never use it but if i can help one of you will be more than glad to

 

The efforts really have. And to be honest, I cant seem to understand why this swap isnt more widespread. Although, some of the appeal to me is that it is so rare. I have been following this thread for months. I have a block. Bought a complete motor with a supposed spun rod bearing; turned out the whole motor was starved for oil. Thankfully the block survived. I've been trying like hell to get this build going, but unfortunately the auto industry isnt treating me so well as a tech these days. Pretty rough.

Congrats to all of you getting your swaps done and running! I'm REALLY curious to see what the trick flows do on these things.

 

im ready to get this build started, just need the money. and a block .

 

Judging from what you've said, you'll probably be better off buying a good shortblock, maybe even a long block. I think a forged 5.4 shortblock from MMR starts at like $2600.

 

im not paying $2600 for a block. i might not even forge the block, havent decided. i really dont plan on more than 350hp and 400tq so im undecided. i can always forge it later if i really need to. im really trying to keep this a budget build but i want to do it right. i want to start off with the cheapest swap humanly possible plus cams.

 

Well cheapest would be just buying a good 5.4 and swapping in some cams, if you plan on building from the block up, you're gonna end up spending alot more.

 

yeah i am beginning to realize that now. on my spread sheet im up to $3500...

 

Have you factored in machine work? It really adds up too I spent about $1200 on having the block machined, rotating assembly balanced, and shortblock assembled.

 

hunter(sleepingGT) spend right around 5500 on a mild longblock. the machine work was cheap only about 400 bucks. if you can buy a shortblock for 2600 from MMR you would be better off with that and a nice set of heads....

 

im just going to start with a complete motor, keep it stock and add stage 3 cams and be done with it. if i want to forge it later i can but im not lookin for more than 350hp and 400tq so its all good.

 

I found 5.4 complete on eBay, got it and used that. I stripped it down to a shortblock and checked everything over. Got some used comp cams 270's, some used Stage II Partiot heads, a used HPS intake and put it together. It runs pretty well and I probably have a little over 2G in all of that doing all of the work myself. I sold the heads of the donor engine and it came with a lot of new parts. SOme I used, some I sold which all helped offset the cost of the build. It is not the ideal setup, but I drive it every day.

 

Coolness.. send me a PM with email addy and we'll run the dealio. I only have the 1 springlock fitting but I'll include it.

cams help a bit but the auto hurts the rw numbers. Should land there or pretty close. Don't fixate on dyno numbers. You'll disappoint yourself. Fixate on how it drives.

Please stay off ebay. We can get you new parts cheaper in most cases direct from manufacturers and distributors.

the front cover is a good find (don't remember if the price was right... 80-100 bucks tops is ok), they can be a little scarce. Pretty much everything else, no.

if you start to build a motor from parts you'll drive the cost into orbit. Buy a shortblock from MMR while they're cheap if you want long running forged goodness. If you're willing to risk the expense of having to pull it back out later or you know the quality of your donor motor then just stuff a complete one in between the rails. NA or FI, if you're going to run it hard then beef up the bottom on stock motors or buy the forged ready to go ones.

Termy IC plumbing exits the rear of the lower, L exits the top. That's the least (and a very significant one) of the differences. It would be easier to describe them as related parts but nowhere near compatible.

too much for used heads, or ported PI's anymore. 7-800 more gets you another 50-100hp. You'll not find value like that outside of nitrous.
heads and cams together is a possible deal but I'd still push you toward the TFS heads and a cam better than comp with a shorter lsa and an earlier ICL.
The shortblock is probably needing a set of bearings and a quick run through the machine shop for the crank (polish) but it's otherwise got about 1200 bucks in parts in it. As long as the pistons are scuffed bad you should be able to rock it. The longblock sounds like a deal. Add 500-1000 bucks and you'll have a nice little built short block.



2600 for a shortblock, not just the block. That includes clean room assembly, machining, forged everything, and new hardware. Good luck building one for that little. If you have to save parts up to do it, cool... that's how I did it, but the expense goes up a good bit. If you can save for it, do so.

we've been through this a lot and found the places where the money is best spent and others where it's best saved. Take the advice or leave it... it's there for your benefit. 2600 bucks for a forged ready to go monster is a straight fuggin deal.

Big *** cams like that are not going to be much help on stock PI heads... stop at stage 2 and you'll get a big gain in drivability a bit of bottom end power and a mellower idle without any loss of peak power. If you have hotter than stock heads the gains with the bigger cams can become something more substantial.

 

i heard from a couple people that the bullet stage 3 heads would be great for a 5.4 swap... im hoping to spend $2000-2500. what should i do guys?

 

what else would i need if i decided to go with a 4v navi motor compared to a f150 2v? i have a 4.6 2v right now...

 

I ran a best of 13.4 @ 104 and that was with a 1.97 60' time. This was on street tires and my car has an IRS. I am stoked at those times. LOVE THE 5.4!!! My best with the 4.6 was a 14.0 @ 99 on the stick axle.

 

nice man. whats ur set-up like?

 

i know it's alittle late for some of you old dogs..... but i just got a call from FTP saying one side is done and the other just needs a finish weld or so..... hows that for a shop to stay there till 3 am to get your car ready by the car show? Tj said with him using hunters car to see how to make these fit he will be able to make them in a couple diffrent sizes to match your combo...... i will post some pics and maybe video tomarrow.....

 

awesome man!!!!!!!! too bad you still didn't have the old axle i'd say slap some slicks on it...

 

That's not a bad 60' time for street tires on an IRS. In fact that's pretty good to get it under 2 seconds with all the tq trying to rip the wheels off. Well done. If you slapped some DR's or slicks on it you'd see 12's.

Your trap speed says 304hp on a 3460lbs car. The weight was a guess.

 

complete 5.4 2v motor
hps intake
solid motor mounts
bbk 78mm tb/plenum combo
widend h-pipe

anything else that is essential for the swap? what kind of gain on 260hp and 350tq will i see if i get my stang pi heads ported?