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Anyone have the C-Springs? Are they good quality? Im lookin for about an INCH drop....will they work with stock Struts and shocks?
Why are they so cheap?
Please advise...lol
__________________ 2002 Mustang GT Coupe
5-Speed Performance
K&N Intake
Accufab upper Intake Plenum
Accufab 70mm Throttle Body
Steeda Pullies
SCT 4-Bank Chip Dyno Tuned
Mac H-pipe
Flowmaster Cat-Back
Steeda Shifter
Centerforce Clutch
SLP-Line-Lock
And more upgrades visually
NICE..just what im looking for...I wonder why people pay the extra dollar for the Steeda Sport Springs and Eiback Pro Kit?? Seems like the Ford springs are good.
__________________ 2002 Mustang GT Coupe
5-Speed Performance
K&N Intake
Accufab upper Intake Plenum
Accufab 70mm Throttle Body
Steeda Pullies
SCT 4-Bank Chip Dyno Tuned
Mac H-pipe
Flowmaster Cat-Back
Steeda Shifter
Centerforce Clutch
SLP-Line-Lock
And more upgrades visually
They are very aggressive however, the spring rate is quite high and are a liner spring so they are not as cushy for normal driving as some other springs. They imo are better for handling than a progressive rate spring because you always know what youre going to get.
They will work with stock shocks and struts but the ride is a little bouncy but not bad.
I would buy them again in a heartbeat but would pop for aftermarket shocks/struts and do the work only once.
This summer I plan on cutting the dead coil front and rear, adding CC plates, and shocks/struts.
I went with the Steeda sports because they are a progressive rate spring instead of a linear. There is nothing wrong with the "C" springs they are just not as good. That does not make them a bad choice. Just a personal preference thing.
I've had mine in about a month now. I cut one coil off the top of the rears. With the weight of the car on them the top 3 coils in the rears are touching. I was told this is the progressive stage so it aparently only comes into play on rebound. The ride isn't all that bad but it is firmer than stock. I also have tokico illuminas and currently have the fronts set on 3 and rears on 5 so mine are a little firmer than yours would be with stock shocks. If you have 315's on hte rear like I do I wouldn't cut the rear spring with stock shocks. My car dropped 1.5" all the way around.
Ford Racing info on them says F 600 lb/in Linear, R 200/300 lb/in progressive.
lowers F - 1 1/8"
lowers R - 3/4"
Here is a pic soon after install.
__________________ Homegrown Mods:
Teflon A-Frame Bushings (offset for caster)
Delrin upper spring isolators (front)
Watts Link
Ported Air Plenum
Strut Tower Brace
Add on rear sway bar (off the front of a Volvo, LOL)
Front brake cooling ducts Store Bought Mods:
Hypertech Tuner
Tokico Iluminas
Steeda UD Pullys
Mustang Tuning Plenum Spacer
Replica Bulletts, 17x9 F, 17x10.5 R
C-springs
X-2 ball joints
UPR bump steer kit
UPR shifter
Cobra Brakes F&R
Im not too happy about my Eibachs which are H&Rs but it may be the system I have in the trunk. I cant have to many people in the car now since the tire rubs in the back. I have Tokicos blue shocks and struts. I have seen people with lower rides and wider tires and wonder how they keep the rear from landing on the tire. Like i said could be the weight Im carrying other than that I like the springs as you go in a curve they hold and smooth over bumps. I will probably start a new post to see what setup will fix this beside rolling the lip. I also hit speed bumps sometimes but I guess that the price you pay to lower it that much.
I like the look of the H&R's myself, but I was worried about the tire rubbing issue also. That is why I wanted to get the C springs. I figured they would get rid of the 4x4 look, and not have any clearance issues. Plus they are at a damn good price here at MT.
__________________
2003 Black 5spd GT
SLP Loudmouth catback
18" Black Deep Dish Bullitts
pretty much my car rides fine and the shocks really only control bounce in your car it doesnt help hold your car up it just keeps your springs in check. my car has a leaning issue its about a 1/8th lower in the right rear dont know why. springs didnt fix it and shocks didnt fix it. sometime in the future ill get some new isolators. oh yeah those rims are for sal check out my classified 1800 obo
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by wnracing
And as far as Stanger00... I wouldn't worry about him, I think Korea has ****ed with his head... No Mustang for that long will do that to ya...
I think the c springs are ideal for a street driven machine. I've noticed very little difference on how much it bottoms on driveway transitions and stuff like that but I do take those a little slower than I use to.
__________________ Homegrown Mods:
Teflon A-Frame Bushings (offset for caster)
Delrin upper spring isolators (front)
Watts Link
Ported Air Plenum
Strut Tower Brace
Add on rear sway bar (off the front of a Volvo, LOL)
Front brake cooling ducts Store Bought Mods:
Hypertech Tuner
Tokico Iluminas
Steeda UD Pullys
Mustang Tuning Plenum Spacer
Replica Bulletts, 17x9 F, 17x10.5 R
C-springs
X-2 ball joints
UPR bump steer kit
UPR shifter
Cobra Brakes F&R
Ive got C springs. Cut the deal coil in the rear. lowered the car nicely id say 1.5 all around. No complaints. I need new shocks/struts though. Overall good buy for the money!
I've heard complaints. The linear rate is no good, some people on modular depot say they will make your car handle worse and ride like crap.
I went for eibachs.
Imo thats hog wash. I have them and they do ride harder than stock but its not uncomfortable and I drive 30K+ miles a year so I dont want it to ride bad. I also believe the handling is better. Of course with just springs none will make a stock mustang into a corner carver.
I have my set of C springs coming and want a level vs. raked look.. Should I "cut the dead coil" and if so, are the "dead coils" on the top or bottom of the springs..
Oh, forgot to tell you why. I went with the progressive because they aren't as bouncy. Any time you change the springs your stock struts and shocks will work but they won't last as long as they're intended to.