need some advice and input

JoeMacDJ · 09-28-2005, 10:33 AM

HI everyone how are you? I have a problem with my mass airflow sensor for my 1999 gt. I currently have a C&L Mass airlow housing with my stock sensor. Do you guys think that I should buy a stock replacement for the sensor or should I buy a whole new aftermarket unit from granitelli? the price of the stock is around 240 and the granitelli is about 399. Would this be worth the extra money based on my Mods?

*03gtmustang* · 09-28-2005, 11:58 AM

You should be using the stock MAF for your car, no need for an aftermarket one. How do you know the maf sensor is bad?

JoeMacDJ · 09-28-2005, 04:36 PM

Its not terribly bad I just notice a rough and high idle, and when I first start it up sometimes it bucks for a little bit. I recently brought my car in because the stupid check fuel cap light was on and one of the things noticed was that the MAF sensor voltage is out of range. Tryed cleaning it to no avail. Also that stupid light is still on

Dr. Wu 2000 · 09-28-2005, 06:31 PM

How/why do you have a stock sensor with aftermarket housing? Just curious.

WaterDR · 09-28-2005, 07:26 PM

Hold on a second! (loud breaking noise)

First of all, based on your symptons, there is no way that you can say that the MAF is causing those problems. Did someone tell you that? Have the MAF been tested and failed. If you buy a new one (stock or not) I think you are throwing money away.

Likely culprits for this situation could be a bad coil pack and/or problems with IAC, TB, or TPS. I would start there first and I can go in to more detail for you if needed.

It is really rare that a MAF would just go bad, unless you damaged it physically and you are not telling us that part.

As far as the C&L 80 mm MAF, for those that do not know, this is a kit that C&L sells that utilizes the stock MAF electronics. The device is designed to trick you MAF signal and makes the car run lean. This is where the added hp comes from. In my strong opinion, this is a bad device and you should pull it from the car and put the stock housing back in. There have been a lot of reported problems with these and they are not safe to use unless the car has been dyno-tuned specifically for it.

It is possible...very possible, that the C&L unit is causing your problems, w/o there being an electronics issue. Before you do anything else, put the stock housing back in and then we can properly test the IAC, TB, and TPS.

Dr. Wu 2000 · 09-29-2005, 04:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT's#1Customer!

Hold on a second! (loud breaking noise)

First of all, based on your symptons, there is no way that you can say that the MAF is causing those problems. Did someone tell you that? Have the MAF been tested and failed. If you buy a new one (stock or not) I think you are throwing money away.

Likely culprits for this situation could be a bad coil pack and/or problems with IAC, TB, or TPS. I would start there first and I can go in to more detail for you if needed.

It is really rare that a MAF would just go bad, unless you damaged it physically and you are not telling us that part.

As far as the C&L 80 mm MAF, for those that do not know, this is a kit that C&L sells that utilizes the stock MAF electronics. The device is designed to trick you MAF signal and makes the car run lean. This is where the added hp comes from. In my strong opinion, this is a bad device and you should pull it from the car and put the stock housing back in. There have been a lot of reported problems with these and they are not safe to use unless the car has been dyno-tuned specifically for it.

It is possible...very possible, that the C&L unit is causing your problems, w/o there being an electronics issue. Before you do anything else, put the stock housing back in and then we can properly test the IAC, TB, and TPS.

Absolutely

*madmatt* · 09-29-2005, 06:07 AM

...you didnt wash your motor with a water hose lately did you?

LOL, Id definately get rid of the C&L maf, they have been known to cause nothing but problems. Get a stock one back on the car asap.

*venom* · 09-29-2005, 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madmatt

...you didnt wash your motor with a water hose lately did you?

LOL, Id definately get rid of the C&L maf, they have been known to cause nothing but problems. Get a stock one back on the car asap.

I dont think they are ever going to let that one go Blake.

WaterDR · 09-29-2005, 08:29 AM

Sure, laugh while you can. I will get you all back.

*madmatt* · 09-29-2005, 10:56 AM

LOL I know, its going to bite me in the ass one day, I know it...

09-28-2005, 10:33 AM	#1 (permalink)
JoeMacDJ Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Methuen, MA Posts: 20	need some advice and input HI everyone how are you? I have a problem with my mass airflow sensor for my 1999 gt. I currently have a C&L Mass airlow housing with my stock sensor. Do you guys think that I should buy a stock replacement for the sensor or should I buy a whole new aftermarket unit from granitelli? the price of the stock is around 240 and the granitelli is about 399. Would this be worth the extra money based on my Mods? __________________ 99 Chrome yellow mustang gt convertible Modifications K&N FIPK C&L 80mm MAF BBK upper intake plenum Accufab 75mm TB Mac catted prochamber Bassani stainless steel quiet thunder catback. SCT xcalibrator 2 tuned by mustang tuning Transgo Shift Kit Cervinis stalker hood 17x9 Black bullitt wheels with spinners 255's in the front 275's in the rear CDC Lightbar B&M shifter billet replacement pieces Autometer custom gauge cluster Ford Racing Bullitt suspention kit

09-28-2005, 04:36 PM	#3 (permalink)
JoeMacDJ Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Methuen, MA Posts: 20	Its not terribly bad I just notice a rough and high idle, and when I first start it up sometimes it bucks for a little bit. I recently brought my car in because the stupid check fuel cap light was on and one of the things noticed was that the MAF sensor voltage is out of range. Tryed cleaning it to no avail. Also that stupid light is still on __________________ 99 Chrome yellow mustang gt convertible Modifications K&N FIPK C&L 80mm MAF BBK upper intake plenum Accufab 75mm TB Mac catted prochamber Bassani stainless steel quiet thunder catback. SCT xcalibrator 2 tuned by mustang tuning Transgo Shift Kit Cervinis stalker hood 17x9 Black bullitt wheels with spinners 255's in the front 275's in the rear CDC Lightbar B&M shifter billet replacement pieces Autometer custom gauge cluster Ford Racing Bullitt suspention kit

09-28-2005, 06:31 PM	#4 (permalink)
Dr. Wu 2000 Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Eastern, Pa. Posts: 30	How/why do you have a stock sensor with aftermarket housing? Just curious. __________________ 2004 Redfire Cobra... not stock... 477rwhp/491rwtq

09-28-2005, 07:26 PM	#5 (permalink)
WaterDR Administrator Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 6,374	Hold on a second! (loud breaking noise) First of all, based on your symptons, there is no way that you can say that the MAF is causing those problems. Did someone tell you that? Have the MAF been tested and failed. If you buy a new one (stock or not) I think you are throwing money away. Likely culprits for this situation could be a bad coil pack and/or problems with IAC, TB, or TPS. I would start there first and I can go in to more detail for you if needed. It is really rare that a MAF would just go bad, unless you damaged it physically and you are not telling us that part. As far as the C&L 80 mm MAF, for those that do not know, this is a kit that C&L sells that utilizes the stock MAF electronics. The device is designed to trick you MAF signal and makes the car run lean. This is where the added hp comes from. In my strong opinion, this is a bad device and you should pull it from the car and put the stock housing back in. There have been a lot of reported problems with these and they are not safe to use unless the car has been dyno-tuned specifically for it. It is possible...very possible, that the C&L unit is causing your problems, w/o there being an electronics issue. Before you do anything else, put the stock housing back in and then we can properly test the IAC, TB, and TPS. __________________ Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump My Car My Email

09-29-2005, 06:07 AM	#7 (permalink)
madmatt Traitor...lol Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Lexington, SC Posts: 7,929	...you didnt wash your motor with a water hose lately did you? LOL, Id definately get rid of the C&L maf, they have been known to cause nothing but problems. Get a stock one back on the car asap. __________________ RPMPlanets

09-28-2005, 11:58 AM	#2 (permalink)
03gtmustang Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Northern Va Posts: 3,247	You should be using the stock MAF for your car, no need for an aftermarket one. How do you know the maf sensor is bad?

09-29-2005, 08:29 AM	#9 (permalink)
WaterDR Administrator Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 6,374	Sure, laugh while you can. I will get you all back. __________________ Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump My Car My Email

09-29-2005, 10:56 AM	#10 (permalink)
madmatt Traitor...lol Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Lexington, SC Posts: 7,929	LOL I know, its going to bite me in the ass one day, I know it... __________________ RPMPlanets

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