Where the hell is it? I found the wire for it and it just dissapears into and behind the ac compressor. Can you describe it in relation to other components of the engine, I assume it's on the front.

Thanks in advance.

 

AFAIK there's only 1 CAM position sensor, it's on the driver side behind the PS reservoir. If you're talking about the crankshaft position sensor which is behind the AC compressor, you'll have to un-bolt the compressor to access it. It goes into a little hole about even with the vertical mid-line of the crankshaft.

 

Here's a pic:

 

I'm still convinced there are two. My car was throwing a code for the CPS I replaced the one on the front just under the valve cover with both new ones and it still throws a code. I did not have to take the PS resivoir out to access the bolt, so I got lucky on that one.

I will do some snooping around tomorrow morning and let you know. As it will be dark before I get back home from work.

 

1, did you actually clear the codes? (have to ask)

There is only 1 cam sensor, it only needs 1. The ECU assumes that the hardware was setup correctly in the first place.

Pull your driver side valve cover and check to see if your cam gear is all gummed up on the side face (pennzoil cars especially) or if they're possibly worn down a bit and not allowing the sensor to get a reading within spec. Any damage will be readily visible. Perhaps a tooth broke off a cam gear... never can tell.

Here's a pic to clarify:


See that little bump at the bottom, that's what the sensor is detecting. If that's gummed up it'll interfere with the sensor.

If that sensor or the crank sensor is disconnected the injectors shouldn't fire and you can bump the engine over to get a view of the whole thing since half of it is covered by the front cover.

 

Thank you sir.

Yes, I did clear the code.

 

ping back in if this doesn't help you solve the issue.

 

I will be sure to let you know tomorrow. I cleared the code and the SES light doesn't come on during regular cruising around town, only untill I romp on the gas pedal or get on the freeway it turns on.

 

There is a ton of wiring over the valve cover. For someone that has never taken a valve cover off how long do you think this should take me. I have to work tomorrow morning so I didn't want to take it off and find out it will take a while to put back on.

 

takes about a half hour off and back on. Don't worry about the wires, none of them connect to the valve cover.

 

I assumed that it's just a unbolt and bolt back on kinda deal. I will check it out in a little bit. The wiring laying over top looked like a it was more of an obstacle than it was.

 

the harness just lays on top of it. NO need to disconnect anything normally. Yeah, it's just un-bolt and bolt back up. You'll need a deep well socket. 8mm IIRC. COuld be a 6 or 7 though.

 

Finally got the deep well socket set, you were correct on the 8mm size. So I pop the hood and I stare at all the wiring. I try getting the nuts loose and I can only get to the top front ones, the rest are either at the wrong angle or blocked by the master cylinder on fuse box.

This ******* sucks because I just broke my damn elbow adapter so I can't get to them.

 

Okay, I took my diaper off and tried again. All of the top bolts I got off and I only need the three closest to the firewall and the one blocked by the oil dipstick.

I had my trans swapped and I think the shop routed the clutch cable on the wrong side of the dipstick (or a least on the side I don't want it to be on). So I'm having trouble with that. I'm going to try again in a few, I'll let you know the progress.

edit: Down to the last bolt in the back, I just bent the dipsick out of the way.

 

I finally got the cover half way off but was able to see the bump you were talking about. It was really clean, I was surprised.

So now I'm back to step one, but I know it has nothing to do with the sensor or the bump being fouled. So now what? This is really ticking me off because my car runs like ****. It doesn't start on the first turn of the ignition, it just winds up, fires and burbles out. It also affects the idle and performance which is what makes driving a disapointment.

 

Bump... Can anyone help me out?

 

Just out of curiosity, did it throw any other codes? Have you ever changed the plugs?

 

I've only had the car for just under a year, I'm sure they have been changed but not positive. That has been on my list of things to do, just haven't found the time. It did throw a code for p1000, looked it up but didn't find it in the code list. On my sct tsx it displayed it as unable to complete test or procedure, something like that. I will get the details later tonight.

 

Now it doesn't start. So, this is a new symptom?

The hard starting and dying out or running rough may be due to a vacuum leak, air intake leak after MAF, bad MAF, IAC sticking.

Edit: the P1000 code is probably from you reseting the computer after you cleared the fault codes. This code will go away after normal driving.

 

It does start everytime, its just not all the time on the first turn of the ignition. Yes this is a new symptom.

I will check those tonight, thanks everyone. I will keep you posted.

 

Didn't see any aparent leaks.

So now my TSX is not working now, it's stuck and won't read any codes or clear them. I don't even think it's conecting to the car. I'm going to have to talk to a SCT rep and see about getting this fixed.

It seems like my car is starting to fall apart. Ah well, I will figure it out.

I think I'm going to peek in the fenderwell and check the air filter. I put my cai on not that long ago but it wouldn't hurt.

 

now this is starting to sound like a fried computer or a short or bad pump. You are going to need a volt-ohm meter. Start by checking the voltage coming off the cam sensor. Also, check fuel pressure. It sounds like it's just starting to make pressure and then falling off. Did you mess with the fuel pump at all? Ground lines still connected to the bolts hoding down the fuel rail?

 

I dont think you can see air leaking inwards. You may need to physically check for leaks, IE put your hands on and shake some lines and see if they move from their secured location.

ECU could be a problem now that your scanner is not being read. fuel and spark is the next step after air leaks. We were going off that your car has hard starts and now may have evolved into ECU problems, crazy.

Does your car still start and idle? or does your car fail to do anything after the SCT thing took a dump?

 

Please don't tell me these horrible things. I will do what you said and get back to you. I literally didnt touch any wires besides taking the mounts for the wires into the valve covers out and I didn't mess with the fuel pump.

I'm going to also check the hoses tonight. The car idles and runs fine for the most part. When I'm driving and give it gas just to speed up there is a jerking motion in the engine to the drivetrain. When I go to start the car usually when it's a cold start it fires up 75% of the time with no problem. When the engine is warmed up 75% of the time I have to start the car a second time to make it run. Most of the time on the first start with a warmed engine it fires a few times and just dies, (sounds like the exhaust kinda burbles out if you know what I mean).

Timeline:
3 weeks ago-
CEL comes on. Run up to autozone to have it read and buy 2 new camshaft position sensors.

2 weeks ago-
Return the stock tune back to the ECU from a 93 oct tune. Replace CPS with both new ones, didn't work.

Last week-
Having troubles starting the car(car ran fine while driving, just wouldn't start up on the first crank).

Few days ago-
Car is running like ****(while driving in a lower gear I give gas to speed up and the car jerks). Lift the valve cover, inspect the cam gear and the nub(no build up at all anywhere on the cam gear). Found P1000 trouble code(just came from clearing the codes).

Two days ago-
I hook up the TSX since it's been a while, go to read the codes turn key to on position and click procede and the status bar satys at 0%. Try to clear the code and the same thing happens. I go to the perfomance section and selected the top speed and the braking 60-0 status bar stays at 45%. I'm assuming the TSX bluetooth isnt connecting to the "dongle" which is pluged into OBD port.

Today-
Went to autozone to read the codes, only the CPS one came up and not the P1000.

 

This morning I started the car and it did the dying out thing and backfired.

Maybe it's a timing issue?

 

That makes me think its running rich on start up, and that it does it more so when its hot? kinda makes me think like the ECT could be going... I'd check that with the tuner (assuming you can) and watch it to make sure it goes up like it should.

 

Might need to go and replace that CPS again. New parts are sometimes faulty it happens. I just replaced my CPS sensor because I got a code for it 3 weeks ago. Reset the ECU and added the new one and car runs great again.

 

Hey, look who's back again! Good to hear from ya.

I have replaced the CPS with two new ones already. I have reset the ECU every time after each replacement and still no help with the CEL staying off.

UPDATE: This morning I reset my TSX and reconected the bluetooth and it worked like a charm. I cleared the codes and after a little driving it has seemed to improve. The starts are still bad and the CEL has come on again after the short amount of driving.

I have also checked for leaks and still could not detect one.

FML!!!

 

If you read up on the OBD-II code for the camshaft position sensor, it says that the code could also be associated with the crankshaft position sensor. r3dn3ck posted at picture of it, but it is the one that is down near the A/C compressor. There is no code directly associated with the crankshaft sensor so if the code is still present after replacing the camshaft sensor, then I think you need to look there. It could also be a wire associated with either sensor that has been moved around and possibly broken.

As for your initial question, there is no camshaft sensor on the passenger side. If the timing was set properly, the sensor on the driver side is sufficient because the passenger side rotates with the driver side. The camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor work in tandem to help determine fuel and ignition timing.

 

Gotcha, let me check on that tonight. Thanks!