I am needing some info on what cams i should get. I got my 2000 mustang gt tuned on fri. I just got done with the saleen 5.0 stroker kit and put 24lb injectors in it. The car put down 283.54rwhp and 339.96rwtq. The tuner was very amazed because i am still running stock cams and heads on my 2v. He kept saying that cams would help so much..What are good cams to go with and what should i look for when buying...aslo this is going to be a nitrous motor with 200 shot and 11to1 compression.

 

I've personally (even though I don't own a 99-04 GT) think that Hi-Tech makes some of the best cams out there for 4.6/5.0s. I've never seen anyone pull anything under 30rwhp (peak to peak) over stock cams. Usually there's at least a 50hp gain in the 4500-5500 range over stock cams.

Idk if they have different stages like Comp does. But if you're already running high compression I'd say to go big or go home.

You could always get a custom nitrous grind, if you never plan on switching it for some type of forced induction.


But I'm an S197/03-04 Cobra guy so my advice may be way off home base. Let the other guys chime in and get some more opinions in here. But I would definitely check out Hi-Techs cams.

 

ok...will look into those..i am wanting a drop in cam that i can put in and not have to change springs and everything esle. So i was wanting to know what the cam numbers of lift, lobe, etc. Also last question what kind of powers numbers are a good set of bolt in cams worth.

 

i am planning on running comp stage 2 cams for my 02 mustang. it has forged pistons and rods, and they have a noticeable idle, although i've heard good things about hi-tech cams aswell... make sure u do ur valves at the same time.

 

Well......if you're only wanting some drop in cams. I think you just need to not waste your money. Any cam that is an NSR cam (no spring change required) is going to give you 10-20rwhp if that. But thats with the cost of $600 for the cams, and another couple of hundred for the tune.

So if you're wanting just a drop in no spring change or valve change....then you don't need to be looking at cams. The REAL way to do it is to get a set of SPR Comps, or the Hitech cams and just do a full valvespring change when you put in the cams.

Afterwards, you'll have a higher revving (capable) motor and the cams to pull all the way through those higher RPMs.

You have a stroker motor, don't cheap on the cams and I guarantee you won't regret it.

 

on a 2000, get the Hi-Tech stage 2 cam and install it retarded 1-2 degrees. You won't need valve springs under 6400rpm. I have the comp 270's on my 5.4 and they do leave a little bit on the table. Great average power but the HT's would be my first choice if I were to do it again.

FWIW, What we've seen on the 5.4 2v swaps is a early IVO, 230+deg duration and bias to the intake side and short LSA for NA cars seems to net the best returns.

 

Just curious... I'm thinkin of gettin cams later this year as well. Someone suggested Comp cam 278's with Titanium valve springs/retainers. Any input?

 

278 is too big for most combos especially those with stock heads.

Hitech stage 2's for you too. The titanium bits are great if you're planning on needing to spin the **** out of it but realistically you'll shift at what... 6000, so no bother with all that.

 

How do the stage 2's idle? Half the fun of having cams is a noticable idle

 

They don't work with the stock short block. What mods do you have again? If you don't have long tube headers you need to do that first.


As per the OP,
Call up Comp Cams and they can make you a nice custom ground set of cams setup for nitrous and your specs. No off the shelf cam is gonna be optimal for your setup. Its the only way to do it since you have such a good combo.

 

sound is a BAD reason to select a cam. The hi-tech's have a nice mild lope to them. Nothing really radical but noticable

 

LOL i didn't mean it like THAT. I just want a good solid performing cam, with a noticeable chop.

 

Nothin big really. Just some bolt ons... o/r h, violators catback, cai, udp's, sct x3 with custom 93 octane tune, and should have 4.10's installed inna couple more weeks finally. So you sayin get some long tubes and accomodating h pipe first? BTW, did you ever get them damn emblems? LOL

 

I think you'll find it pleasant:

http://www.hitechmotorsport.com/inde...pper&Itemid=85

 

Hmm yeah that sounds pretty sweet.

 

Without long tubes you shouldn't do much more then comp 262 cams or hitech stage 1's. Either one will make a nice power improvement without killing the bottom end power. It will still have a good idle with either one.

 

LTs first. Then cams.

You want Hitech Stage 2s. Every 99-04 guy I've talked to says they wish they would've researched the cams before just going with Comp.

If Hitech made cams for 3Vs I would be all over them. They pull some serious serious power. But unlike stage 3 comps they are able to be easily street driven.

 

I called a guy from Hi-tech and he said stage 2. While talking to him he made me kind of mad..he asked what mods and what power i was making and i told him my numbers and he laughed and said he would have to see it to believe it...so pretty much saying that i was messing with the numbers...anyways that aside he said could be 20-40hp gain and 30-50 in torqe numbers. I hope that cams will help as much as he was saying. I think i might order a set soon and maybe i can see very high 300s in rwtq.

 

Well thats probably because your numbers are uncorrected and probably are higher in reality than what say your stock hp is for instance. Numbers straight off a dyno are usually about 10 hp more than what is actually there depending on heat, moisture, etc.

But aside from that, I think Hitech has the best to offer for cams for 99-04s. Plus you can't beat another 40hp/50tq N/A for only $700. Thats hard to come by.

 

this is kinda for 2008 Mustang Gt...what do you mean by uncorrected numbers...what can i do for corrected numbers...the car was warm, this was about the 5th run and did not cool down the car completly

 

No I mean SAE corrected. As far as temperature, humidity, what type of dyno etc. Idk where to go to get the numbers corrected. But on your dyno sheet it should've shown the temp, humidity, etc. Those numbers affect hp ratings, some times pretty dramatically. My '04 Cobra pulled off 463rwhp on a mid-fall afternoon with the stock Heaton. That very next summer the same pulley and setup pulled a 430rwhp in blazing heat and very moist air. It took two sizes smaller of a pulley and 3lbs of boost more to get 460rwhp that day.

Not saying you're numbers are wrong, but the numbers they get up there and what you get at your local dyno could be completely different because of altitude, temp, and the humidity.

 

the 11:1 compression and the stroker kit explains your numbers completely. I'd bet those are SAE.

Now then, a 200 shot of nitrous? What intake manifold are you running?

 

i talked to the tuner agian today, and i am getting ready to put the nitrous back on. I have the NX express 2v plate wet kit and he said those kits are not much good for more than 150 shot because of the silonoids so i am thinkin that i will start with that. I am running a new plastic intake, the only diff is the aluminum crossover on the front. Tuning will be friday and hopefully i can see the torqe numbers over 500. That would be great

 

That just sounds bad....I've heard of guys blowing up the stock 3v intakes on 100-shots. That'll be the next breaking point IMO. Just watch it for cracks and etc. and you should be good until you get a new intake.

 

would check out crower cams my n/a stroker 2v is pting down close to 400 with the trick flow heads and crower stage3 cams

 

Is it a trailer car? With stage 3s that can't be easy to drive on the street.

 

Its not going to just delevleop cracks from having nitrous go through it. It will only do that if it backfires. And the NX plate kit has been proven good up to 225shots through the stock manifold. Its the only way other then direct port kits, to get over 150shots without backfiring.

Hell in tampa there is a guy running a 200shot on a stock 2v with nothing more then exhaust work and a tune. Pretty sweet in my book.

 

I was saying if the plastic one cracks and you shoot nitrous through it then you're going to have a problem. I didn't saying spraying nitrous into it is a problem. I've seen guys develop cracks in their stock intakes, shoot a 100-shot through it and blow the intake through the roof. Thats what I mean, sorry.

 

Just another option I went with Anderson Motor Sports cams didn't care about sound any cam is going to change that a little, The Andersons really hit at the right rpm range the point is they have to match everything else.Most bigger cams are worth less without long tubes Spike hit that on the head. I picked up about 40 hp on cams and good tune but each case is different, I have a bunch of bolt ons and typhoon intake and heads are ported to match,