Hey guys, looking to build an engine in with spare time and money and im looking to use a doner 2V 4.6. I found this on ebay. . .http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-6-v...=p4506.c0.m245

Yeah I know it aint pretty and all, but its hella cheap and ya know im gonna rebuild it and prolly bore .020 over.

Then after the block has been machined and worked over I want to put this in there http://www.stage3motorsports.com/pro...d_Pistons.html

From the best of my knowledge, and I know its not alot, but I think this would be a solid platform for a build. My goal is to get a solid forged 2v engine built and ready to swap into my car. To top it all off (and to compliment those low compression pistons) I want to set this on top of it. http://www.kennebell.net/supercharge...2v/gt96-04.htm

Now I know I am missing something here, heads, cams, and intake and all. But in this imaginary budget of mine is already gone.


Will my stock upper end run this set up? Im really not trying to go ALL out here, I just want to get my car well past the magical 400HP mark for stock engines. Tell me what you think, or even a cheaper way to do it.


Also, I can do most of this work myself, I think the hardest part will be the actual engine swap, but I even have access to everything I need there too. Probably the only thing I would not be able to do myself is the boring and machine work, other than that seems pretty straight forward.

 

I think if i were you, since your spending a ton on adds, id go a bit more on the actual engine because that one looks pretty sad. Just IMO

 

Yeah I completely understand what your saying there, I have always been under the impresion that a rebuilt and bored engine is just as good as new. Prolly wrong on that one though. But all I need is the block to be in good shape right? I mean after the pistons, rods and crank and all go in everything else should just be a direct swap is what Im thinking.

Another question here too, will my PI heads have any probs bolting to this block? Is there any thing to look out for there?

Im just a bit worried that after I start this im gonna have a half *** built engine sitting around collecting dust after I lose intrest in it (or get tired of it) and not do anything with it. LOL

 

Haha, well i guess i really dont have enough knowledge on engine blocks to really give you good advice on this one. I always have this belief that somethings are never good as new, but thats just me, GL.

 

If I read it right, did he say that these motors had 200k on them?

I think you have a good plan here,just a couple of thoughts:
1) Have whatever block you buy, checked for cracks, pressure tested if possible.
2) Have you thought about a stroker kit since its gonna be bored anyway?
3) Your heads should bolt right up no problem.
4) Take you time and dont cut corners, choose your parts wisely, when its all said and done you can run what ever boost you want. Good Luck

 

Awsome bro! Thanks! Thats just the kind of info Im looking for!

You mentioned the stroker kit. . . . I know that it basicly lengthens the stroke of the pistons and all but what else does it do? What are the pros and cons to stroking? I really know nothing about it. As far as the boring goes, I have always thought the main purpose of that was to "refinish" the cylinder walls so the piston rings can seal better.

 

Actually a seasoned block is better then a new OEM one as if it was gonna fail it would have already. I would go with the 01 motor as it will have the same timing cover and other parts as your 02, where the 99 will not. And it doesn't matter what the block looks like as long as its in solid shape its nothing a machine shop cleaning and hot tank bath and paint won't make look great. I vote Ford blue.

 

Spike is right about the blocks, a seasoned block is better but since you know nothing of where the blocks came from or what they have though, still have it checked. (seasoned means that it has gone though heat cycles over and over and has actuily be harder and denser)

Stroker kits increase cubic inch displacment (CID) by increasing bore size and stroke lenght. No cons to stroking as long as you stay in the safe zone. You dont want paper thin cyliner walls. Sometimes the block will need machining for the crank to clear the block. The old saying goes "There's no replacment for displacement" Bigger is Better

"Honing" is the finishing process for the rings to seat. "Boring" makes the hole bigger.

Like I said before, take your time, have a plan and a goal, match your components and the next thing you know you'll have a hellava motor there. Good Luck