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| Modular 4.6L Tech For all your 1996-2005+ 2V, 3V, and 4V modular motor needs. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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jjtgiants
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dublin, CA
Posts: 3,722
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I was reading through an older thread about installing steeda pulleys and one reply said to use the crank pulley bolt supplied by steeda and another reply said not to. I read in the directions and they said you should use your stock bolt, and use the bolt steeda provides to get the crank pulley started, but when I had mine installed a few months ago I'm pretty sure the shop used the steeda supplied bolt rather than the stock one. I included the directions with the pulleys when the shop installed them, so WTF.
Should I be worried and will I eventually throw a belt and run into problems if I don't get it fixed? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Gear Banger
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Two Harbors, MN.
Posts: 230
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I installed the pulley with the Steeda bolt and then removed it and reinstalled the Ford bolt. If you are concerned install the Ford bolt if the shop you had do the work gave it back to you.
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2004 Torch Red GT Flowmaster Am.Thunder cat back, SLP Mid Pipe Steeda Underdrive pulleys 3.73 gears Diablosport Predator tune Grille Delete and Mach 1 spoiler Rear Wing delete ![]() Mustang Tuning Shifter Bullitt Handling Kit |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 77
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I used the Steeda bolt, but the shorter one that was the same size as the originial. From what I could tell, and maybe I am wrong, the kit used to only come with the longer starter bolt. In looking at the steeda bolt and the original they were the same. I did read in a few threads to buy a new bolt from Ford, so that is why I figured I was supposed to use the new Steeda bolt?
I guess only time will tell. I have about 500 miles on mine since the install.
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2000 Convertible GT Installed: [size=1]- Steeda Tri-Ax, Steeda Underdrive Pulleys, Flowmaster 40 series weld-ins, Steeda Sport Springs, Tokico "Mach 1" struts/shocks, Steeda CAI, Dragon Plenum, Accufab 70mm TB, Steeda Strut Tower Brace, Grille Delete, xcal2 dyno tune 254.66 RWHP 297.80 TQ on 89 Octane |
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#4 (permalink) |
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jjtgiants
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dublin, CA
Posts: 3,722
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Yeah, my pulley's came with two bolts. The starter bolt and I guess the other bolt is to use with the steeda crank pulley. The only thing is that the shop gave me back my stock crank pulley bolt, but I didn't get the steeda starter bolt back. That's what made me a little nervous. Like owentl said, time will tell.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 29
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If they are piggyback style the new bolt is used, if not piggyabck meaning only one pulley, on some of the older models I guess the stocker is still used for damping, whre the newer ones alreadxy have it built in. In no case should that bolt supplied be used with a single pulley, I did it and tore the new bolt to hell with my kit hte steeda bolt was quite a bit longer once compared, there was nothing left as far as threads. I'm thanhkful that Steeda incorporated a bolt that is made of weaker material than the crank, we used a tap to clean out the holes, threaded in as good as it did prior WHEW! I didn't get instructions with mine and really was pissed at myself for making such a stupid mistake. it casued the SES light misfire code came up. Once the stock pulley was back on it was fine so we reisntalled the underdrive with the stock bolt and no prblems since, about 7 months or so.
Brett |
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#6 (permalink) |
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The Baninator!
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Use Your Stock Bolt Unless Otherwise Noted On Your Instructions. The Steeda Bolt Is Only There To Start The Pulley, Not To Bolt It On.
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Chris "Shambles" Chamblee
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: GERMANLAND
Posts: 2,360
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there have been horror stories from reusing the stock crank bolt. it is the type of bolt that is only good for being torqued down once. they should of used the long bolt to get the pulley started then should have used the other bolt that is supplied with the kit.
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