Basic Weight Reduction
#5
I say it is... but only if your at that point where your close to the next second,(like you run 14.1's and what to get in the 13's) Which if your gonna take out your back seat, spare and jack, and passanger seat. I'd take a extra few min and pull that front right headlight.
#8
You can remove the "dogbone" from the rear diff that is 5lbs. I lost 12lbs by switching to and SLP catted X-pipe, and i lost another 5lbs by removing the rear wing. I have little pieces here and there from My car, like the tether mounts for child seats inder the rear deck they weighed 1lb total. Without removing the jack, spare or rear seat I have shaved 35 lbs so far. Also the type of wheels and tires you run can make a big difference. a set of 10 inch slicks on Weld Ultra Lite wheels will likley weigh 10 lbs less each than a set of 245's on stock 17in. wheels. Also reducing rotating weight has a much larger effect on lowering ET's. You can save 20lbs by switching to a lightweight Battery Like the Dyna Batt.
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by spike_africa
i bet a fiberglass one weights the same or more, the hood on my f150 was glass and it weighted 20 pounds more lol. it looked sweet though.
I had always figured they would be lighter.
How about this, instead of a fiber glass hood, take the hood off and cover the engine compartment in saran wrap.
<ROFL>
#14
Originally Posted by venom
Doesnt v6 and v8 already have a fiberglass hood from factory.
Losing weight always cost either and inconvience or $$$. My nitrous bottle weighs 14.4lbs empty. I found a Carbon fiber one for +$500 and only weighs 4lbs, Its amazing how much some people pay to lose weight, I can see it making a difference on a indy car, But its hard to lose enough to make a difference on the street.
Like Mike Sweeny above said. Concentrate on unsprung weight.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post