Loud as F
#31
06-15-2006, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by The Interceptor
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=493694
This is an X pipe install write up. I think the guy is talking about the driver side when he says passenger side, but the 1.5 inch piece of pipe inside the stock tubes is exactly what I am talking about.
This is an X pipe install write up. I think the guy is talking about the driver side when he says passenger side, but the 1.5 inch piece of pipe inside the stock tubes is exactly what I am talking about.
#33
06-15-2006, 10:04 PM
I have the exact same problem with my setup (SLP o/r x, SLP LM1). I can hear the leak from the driver side manifold. Took it to Midas and they tried to tell me that the pipe is defective, which I know it wasn't. And the asses charged me $70 to tighten it....and it still didn't even tighten all the way. I have my stock h at a friend's garage so I'm gonna see about this reducer thing this weekend. Hopefully, it's still in there.
#35
06-15-2006, 10:36 PM
Originally Posted by The Interceptor
PureStang: Unburnt gas on the catless X will always be there. If you have a tune, it helps. Even with high flow cats on my Bassani I was getting the smell. I got it tuned and it has more or less corrected it.
#36
06-15-2006, 11:25 PM
Get it tuned because you are running rich. I had the same problem with mine and it went away as soon as I threw the SCT on it. My Bassani is catted too amd I was running the same issue. My gf at the time wouldn't ride with me because of the smell. From what the tech at Bassani told me, almost all aftermarket cats are going to smell like gas because the high flow cats don't get hot enough. It really isn't a problem, you just need to correct how much fuel you are putting through your engine. A tune should take care of that. Beyond that, if you have a leak(s), I am willing to bet some of that unburnt gas is sputtering out some of those holes. Part of the prblem is right there.
#37
06-15-2006, 11:27 PM
If you are already tuned, I would take a spin on the dyno (if you just got an out of the box tune, the out of the box was good enough for me) and see what your A/F ratio comes out to be.
#38
06-15-2006, 11:32 PM
If you don't want to spend the cash on a tuner, you can always stick a flamethrower setup on it and put that unburnt gas to some use! 
I really, really, really wish I could do that with a setup other than running it from the engine. Flamethowers are pretty trick. Some like their rice steamed, I prefer it roasted!
I really, really, really wish I could do that with a setup other than running it from the engine. Flamethowers are pretty trick. Some like their rice steamed, I prefer it roasted!
#40
06-15-2006, 11:43 PM
I say if you are planning on getting some gears and any other mods to wait on the XCal. I love mine but I waited until I pretty much had done most of what I had wanted to do to it before getting it, made things a shade cheaper in the long run. You might want to post a thread and ask others if they have had the same experience with the tuner helping with the gas smell. For me it worked great but I don't want to steer you wrong. I think the tuner is just a good investment regardless and it worked in my case. Did you get it dyno'd with the X on?
#41
06-15-2006, 11:47 PM
Your numbers sound fine to me otherwise. I would check for a leak first. That will probably be the biggest culprit, it certainly is the cheapest!
#42
06-16-2006, 07:22 AM
Originally Posted by The Interceptor
Your numbers sound fine to me otherwise. I would check for a leak first. That will probably be the biggest culprit, it certainly is the cheapest!
#43
06-16-2006, 07:36 AM
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OMG!!! WHY HAS NO ONE TOLD HIM HE HAS TO CHANGE THE STUDS ON THE DRIVERS SIDE??? :wallbash:
The factory studs have a steel colar or spacer as you refered to.
It only takes 5 minutes and is a piece of cake to switch them out. Spray some penetrating oil on them, let them sit for a moment, take two nuts, screw one down about half way, screw the other one on top of it, tighten the two nuts together, then, with a open end wrench loosen the top nut. This will back the stud right out.
You need to change out the studs to Napa part number 600-1819
The factory studs have a steel colar or spacer as you refered to.
It only takes 5 minutes and is a piece of cake to switch them out. Spray some penetrating oil on them, let them sit for a moment, take two nuts, screw one down about half way, screw the other one on top of it, tighten the two nuts together, then, with a open end wrench loosen the top nut. This will back the stud right out.
You need to change out the studs to Napa part number 600-1819
#44
06-16-2006, 08:28 AM
Glad someone else chimed in. I didn't have any problems with my studs for the Bassani, nor have my friends with other brands, but by all means switch out the studs if necessary. There is still the issue of the reducer, it should be there from al the installs I have seen.
#45
06-16-2006, 08:38 AM
I never did any of this crap you guys are talking about and I have no leaks. I ordered my X from pacifica performance and they said the collar was only needed on 99-01 cars. I unbolted the stock h, bolted in the x, tightened it up, the next day retightened everthing. Been fine for almost a year.
FYI: Mac does not produce a true X pipe. They have a 3 piece design in which the third piece can be swapped out. Pacifica Performance actually manufactures the x. I have both #3 pieces so I can swap h to x in about 10 minutes.
FYI: Mac does not produce a true X pipe. They have a 3 piece design in which the third piece can be swapped out. Pacifica Performance actually manufactures the x. I have both #3 pieces so I can swap h to x in about 10 minutes.
#46
06-16-2006, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by FritoBandito
FYI: Mac does not produce a true X pipe.
#47
06-16-2006, 09:51 AM
Well I did do the crap I am talking about and it did stop my leaks. And one of the cars asking on here is an '01. 
#48
06-16-2006, 09:59 AM
This is just my experience, but I went to NAPA and picked up part # 600-1819Exhaust Manifold Stud Kit for the drivers side flange. Take the studs in the kit and replace the ones in the stock header flange. sometimes the shoulder on aftermarket mid pipes prevents you from tightening down the flange enough and usually causes and exhaust leak. I also went to Ford and got a new exhaust manifold gasket just to be sure.
#49
06-16-2006, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by jjtgiants
This is just my experience, but I went to NAPA and picked up part # 600-1819Exhaust Manifold Stud Kit for the drivers side flange. Take the studs in the kit and replace the ones in the stock header flange. sometimes the shoulder on aftermarket mid pipes prevents you from tightening down the flange enough and usually causes and exhaust leak. I also went to Ford and got a new exhaust manifold gasket just to be sure.
#50
06-16-2006, 10:50 AM
Do what they said and change the studs. Thats the only way to fix it unless you find someone with a mac prochamber that they arent using and steal the collar that mac provides to prevent this problem. The stud change is a bitch and a half by the way.
#54
06-16-2006, 11:22 AM
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Ok, I just got my car back from a wonderful custom exhaust shop and they said the fitment of the x pipe was terrible...they welded a new driver's side pipe onto the x and they made a custom flange on it as well to fit to my stock manifold studs. It's still raspy as hell, but the smell I had is gone so I feel I can assume the leak at the driver's manifold is gone...it only cost me 45 bucks to have this done. The place is called Stone Mountain Muffler and Brakes...their theme is "We Customize" I think the problem is solved now...I may or may not put it up on my lift at work to check for leaks as I am sure they already did this because they did it while I was there to diagnose the issue in the first place. the Rasp is still HUGE though...but it sounds badass outside of the car so I think I'll keep it.
#55
06-16-2006, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by jjtgiants
I saw it, but two opinions are always better than one! especially if they are the same! ha ha ha
#57
06-16-2006, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by PureStang
maybe i need to go to midas if i cant fix it myself
BTW...I am starting to think my Flowmasters are hollowed out or something due to the raspyness and extreme noise...what does anyone think about this?
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