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I just joined the blown motor club

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  #31  
Old 04-24-2006, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by MT's#1Customer!
Compression is supposed to be 175-180.
wow if i was getting only 60 on the two that i thought were good and 30 on the others then, either my compression tool sucks or my engine is really F'ed up
 
  #32  
Old 04-25-2006, 05:15 AM
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You're all scaring me, makes me want to get a compression check, and I only have 8k miles:surrender
 
  #33  
Old 04-25-2006, 07:07 AM
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The guys at Kauffmans have been great. Very understanding and patient with me. Besides my bad news, my experience with them has been very good.

I am currently speaking with Al Papito and having the engine re-built to about a 330 rwhp n/a machine. I will keep you posted.
 
  #34  
Old 04-25-2006, 12:14 PM
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im thinking when its time for my engine...im gonna go 347 stroker
 
  #35  
Old 04-25-2006, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by PureStang
im thinking when its time for my engine...im gonna go 347 stroker
Thats a lot of money... lots
 
  #36  
Old 04-25-2006, 03:12 PM
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Anyone know if you can drop a Mach I motor into a GT w/o a lot of extra work. I may need to move quickly and I can get my hands on a brand new 32 valve motor for a good price. The motor is for an auto too, but should be able to work on a 5 speed.
 
  #37  
Old 04-25-2006, 03:33 PM
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Blake, dont rush into it. The auto motors dont have a forged crank, so thats one thing to consider. Another thing, if you REALLY want it supercharged, be patient and do it right the first time. I know I dont have to tell you as you are a lot older and wiser when it comes to the money aspect, but do it right. I say you get the bottom end built by either MPH or Kaufmanns, the car is already there, why not? You wanted a blower, why change to an equally expensive N/a setup with 100 less hp now? Just some thoughts from a young foolish boy Best of luck buddy.
 
  #38  
Old 04-25-2006, 06:16 PM
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Fact is, I am in a rush! That is the bottom line. The shop is tied up and it is now or wait until the end of the summer. So basically, I need to do something right away.

My options are getting more and more limited. There is no time for a built motor, so I am either looking at a stock GT motor or a Mach I. I can always throw the blower on the stock motor.
 
  #39  
Old 04-25-2006, 06:25 PM
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You can put the blower on a Mach 1 motor too!!
 
  #40  
Old 04-25-2006, 06:35 PM
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Ever thought about trading your car in for a mach 1 or something......think about it you sell your blower $4,000 then trade in or sell your car for $11,000-13,000 with out without mods. Then you intended to spend another $,3,800 on installation and parts

Why not put it towards something new and potentially faster. Thats my 2 cents
 
  #41  
Old 04-25-2006, 06:38 PM
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No doubt Blake!!

Cobra time??????????????
 
  #42  
Old 04-25-2006, 06:44 PM
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Listen to me blake most engine swaps arent as clean as you think and i'm not sure but the VIN numbers wont match up to the car and it will lose value....I say might as well upgrade the whole thing
 
  #43  
Old 04-25-2006, 06:51 PM
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I have thought of that... but,

1 - The car has a bad motor, so I am stuck replacing it anyway.

2 - I dont want to buy crap. You always take chances on a used car.

3 - I dont want to incure more debt. I would only consider an '03 or '04 Cobra Vert and they run about $25k+. Best case senario, I trade the car in as is and I still end up way short.

But, I am considering it.
 
  #44  
Old 04-25-2006, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Icefreezen
Listen to me blake most engine swaps arent as clean as you think and i'm not sure but the VIN numbers wont match up to the car and it will lose value....I say might as well upgrade the whole thing
I have thought of that too, but if I plan on keep the car for many more years, it really wont matter too much.
 
  #45  
Old 04-25-2006, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by MT's#1Customer!
I have thought of that too, but if I plan on keep the car for many more years, it really wont matter too much.
Well thought about getting another car similar to yours and just paying the difference with the money that you would spend on a new motor. And the value would not drop and you most likey will get a car with less milage on the motor.
 
  #46  
Old 04-25-2006, 07:13 PM
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do the motor swap, i think your car is a auto right?

get a manual mach1 motor (better crank) and then use a 8 bolt flexplate found on late 01-04 manual gt;s machs cobras etc... that with the engine and wiring harness,ecu you got yourself a 4v monster. oh you will need the manifolds off the 4v or aftermerket shorites or long tubes whatever you can afford. I would totaly go 4v if money is tight and its either astock GT or stock 4v motor.
 
  #47  
Old 04-25-2006, 07:20 PM
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I have a 5 speed currently and the Mach I motors are the auto version. I cant find any 5 speed versions.

Dustin, would you put a a blower on a stock, brand new motor?
 
  #48  
Old 04-25-2006, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MT's#1Customer!
I have a 5 speed currently and the Mach I motors are the auto version. I cant find any 5 speed versions.

Dustin, would you put a a blower on a stock, brand new motor?
at first no, after 500 miles, hell freakin yeah
 
  #49  
Old 04-25-2006, 11:38 PM
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How come you need to get a new engine when you have bad cylinders? Just trying to understand more. Can't you just buy PI heads?

...like these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-6L-...temZ8059594857
 
  #50  
Old 04-26-2006, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by p3s7_01
How come you need to get a new engine when you have bad cylinders? Just trying to understand more. Can't you just buy PI heads?

...like these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-6L-...temZ8059594857

Cylinder walls are probably scratched from ring failure causing the compression to fall. It's not the heads. As in 8 cylinder motor V8 sohc
 
  #51  
Old 04-26-2006, 03:18 AM
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Here is a complete Mach 1 crate motor........
http://www.gefracing.com/Merchant2/m...ry_Code=CRATES
 
  #52  
Old 04-26-2006, 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Stangdude27
Cylinder walls are probably scratched from ring failure causing the compression to fall. It's not the heads. As in 8 cylinder motor V8 sohc
In that case he'll need new sleeves as well......at this point a new motor would be best for him
 
  #53  
Old 04-26-2006, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by MT's#1Customer!
I have a 5 speed currently and the Mach I motors are the auto version. I cant find any 5 speed versions.

Dustin, would you put a a blower on a stock, brand new motor?
Yes i would, there is nothing wrong with that at all. But there is also nothing wrong with waiting it out. There has been some new info made about running vehicals hard when brand new to get the rings filed well for best MPG and horsepower. Me i would add the blower tune it and give it hell. I just hope everything works out for you brother.
 
  #54  
Old 04-26-2006, 02:13 PM
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Problem solved!!!! I bought a used motor today in IL from an '03 Saleen. Motor has 8,000 mile son it and oil was changed every 1500 miles. I don't have permisssion tp tell you the price yet, but I also got the flywheel and clutch assembly.

Motor will arrive in PA on Monday and the swap will be underway hopefully soon thereafter. I am keepin the Novi and having it installed.

I had the motor inspected by a friend at Modular Misfits who was going to buy the motor for himself, but decided to let me take it. It was pulled at a reputable speed shop and the owner of the shop said that it is the nicest motor he has ever pulled from a car.

The price was great even with shipping charges. And just think, it also prevents me from buying a clutch and a flywheel which makes the shipping nearly a wash.

With any luck, I will have the car back next week!

IMO, the added investment for the new motor even with labor, is worth it to take 60,000 miles off my odo (if you know what I mean). The entire motor, clutch and flywheel with labor should be less then $2,000.
 
  #55  
Old 04-26-2006, 02:16 PM
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Damn that's a sweet deal!!!

Congrat's!!!
 
  #56  
Old 04-26-2006, 02:45 PM
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Man, I missed this post completely. It sucks when you have to rush things but im sure it will all work out for you.
 
  #57  
Old 04-26-2006, 04:18 PM
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wow thats awesome blake, wish i would have my car back by next week, most likely its going to be another 3 weeks to a month until i get my car on the road, have to get money and the shop is busy, but it will be worth it cuz i am getting a built short block possibly a stroker and custom cams and headers, should be real fun when i get it back

Good luck with your car blake!
 
  #58  
Old 04-26-2006, 04:31 PM
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Is there a sound or smell for knowing if you have a bad cylinder? or loss of noticible power within a particular RPM range
 
  #59  
Old 04-26-2006, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by The2000GT
wow thats awesome blake, wish i would have my car back by next week, most likely its going to be another 3 weeks to a month until i get my car on the road, have to get money and the shop is busy, but it will be worth it cuz i am getting a built short block possibly a stroker and custom cams and headers, should be real fun when i get it back

Good luck with your car blake!

What you are doing is what I would have done had I had the time...also, I have the blower, so that always mne to get a stock-type motor and still have some fun. Also, I can always pull the blower and sell the car as stock and get money for the blower.
 
  #60  
Old 04-26-2006, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by p3s7_01
Is there a sound or smell for knowing if you have a bad cylinder? or loss of noticible power within a particular RPM range
Best way to know is to do a compression test. You could also buy an oil separator and install in the blow-off line and observe it. If you suddenly got more oil then normal captured by it, then you might have a bad ring.

My car is no doubt down on power, but I did not notice.
 


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