Clutch Replacement (long post)
#1
Clutch Replacement (long post)
I have a 1995 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 with a T5 Transmission (I'm pretty sure). We had a storm awhile ago and my friends wanted me to do a burnout. Well my dumb*** burnt up the clutch, because when I switched my foot over to the brake I also got the clutch pushed in at the same time. I blame that on for having big feet. haha I thought it was completely out, but I waited a day or so and it cooled off, worked fine, but the 5th gear wasn't as strong as it was at first. Then the throwout bearing (I think) started to make noise when the clutch was pushed in. The other day I finally blew the clutch out, I mean it still drives, but the peddle is so easy to push in now and when it's pushed in it whines (or whatever sound it makes). Once again dumb*** move I did. I wanted a new clutch anyways and now I can get one, but I found it cheaper. I'm going after the King Cobra Clutch Kit, but not from American Muscle because it's like $300. I can get one on E-Bay for around $150 or so. It sucks not having a car, because I hate driving my SUV and I refuse to ride my Motorcycle in the rain or even on dry days (I've been acting weird, to much stress and everything coming at me once).
Question: What else do I need to do? Besides the clutch kit.
Question: I've been told it's pretty easy to replace the clutch your self. What are you thoughts about it? I do have a Haynes manual and I will be doing it my self without a lift.
Ps. I didn't know there was a Stage 2 King Cobra Clutch Kit. I was going to go with this, cheapest and free shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CLUTC...Q5fAccessories
Thank you,
and sorry it's so long, probably wasn't nessarly.
Question: What else do I need to do? Besides the clutch kit.
Question: I've been told it's pretty easy to replace the clutch your self. What are you thoughts about it? I do have a Haynes manual and I will be doing it my self without a lift.
Ps. I didn't know there was a Stage 2 King Cobra Clutch Kit. I was going to go with this, cheapest and free shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CLUTC...Q5fAccessories
Thank you,
and sorry it's so long, probably wasn't nessarly.
Last edited by BikerSk8rKid; 10-26-2009 at 12:53 AM.
#2
I have a 1995 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 with a T5 Transmission (I'm pretty sure). We had a storm awhile ago and my friends wanted me to do a burnout. Well my dumb*** burnt up the clutch, because when I switched my foot over to the brake I also got the clutch pushed in at the same time. I blame that on for having big feet. haha I thought it was completely out, but I waited a day or so and it cooled off, worked fine, but the 5th gear wasn't as strong as it was at first. Then the throwout bearing (I think) started to make noise when the clutch was pushed in. The other day I finally blew the clutch out, I mean it still drives, but the peddle is so easy to push in now and when it's pushed in it whines (or whatever sound it makes). Once again dumb*** move I did. I wanted a new clutch anyways and now I can get one, but I found it cheaper. I'm going after the King Cobra Clutch Kit, but not from American Muscle because it's like $300. I can get one on E-Bay for around $150 or so. It sucks not having a car, because I hate driving my SUV and I refuse to ride my Motorcycle in the rain or even on dry days (I've been acting weird, to much stress and everything coming at me once).
Question: What else do I need to do? Besides the clutch kit.
Question: I've been told it's pretty easy to replace the clutch your self. What are you thoughts about it? I do have a Haynes manual and I will be doing it my self without a lift.
Ps. I didn't know there was a Stage 2 King Cobra Clutch Kit. I was going to go with this, cheapest and free shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CLUTC...Q5fAccessories
Thank you,
and sorry it's so long, probably wasn't nessarly.
Question: What else do I need to do? Besides the clutch kit.
Question: I've been told it's pretty easy to replace the clutch your self. What are you thoughts about it? I do have a Haynes manual and I will be doing it my self without a lift.
Ps. I didn't know there was a Stage 2 King Cobra Clutch Kit. I was going to go with this, cheapest and free shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CLUTC...Q5fAccessories
Thank you,
and sorry it's so long, probably wasn't nessarly.
As for ease, it's not too bad, especially w/ a T5. Just expect it to take 1-2 days and grab a set of studs for the trans-to-bellhousing. Helps to align the trans and then just replace the studs w/ the bolts.
Other stuff you should get are a TOB retainer, pivot ball, fork, cable, and pilot bearing. Also, high temp grease (disc brake grease). If the fork, pivot ball, and retainer look good, then don't replace them, but I almost guarantee that at least the fork and pivot ball need to be replaced. However, replace the cable as it's a good idea. Same goes for the pilot bearing, but that can be a PITA to remove (as in chisel and Dremel PITA).
#3
Don't get the kit you listed. Stick w/ the regular King Cobra.
As for ease, it's not too bad, especially w/ a T5. Just expect it to take 1-2 days and grab a set of studs for the trans-to-bellhousing. Helps to align the trans and then just replace the studs w/ the bolts.
Other stuff you should get are a TOB retainer, pivot ball, fork, cable, and pilot bearing. Also, high temp grease (disc brake grease). If the fork, pivot ball, and retainer look good, then don't replace them, but I almost guarantee that at least the fork and pivot ball need to be replaced. However, replace the cable as it's a good idea. Same goes for the pilot bearing, but that can be a PITA to remove (as in chisel and Dremel PITA).
As for ease, it's not too bad, especially w/ a T5. Just expect it to take 1-2 days and grab a set of studs for the trans-to-bellhousing. Helps to align the trans and then just replace the studs w/ the bolts.
Other stuff you should get are a TOB retainer, pivot ball, fork, cable, and pilot bearing. Also, high temp grease (disc brake grease). If the fork, pivot ball, and retainer look good, then don't replace them, but I almost guarantee that at least the fork and pivot ball need to be replaced. However, replace the cable as it's a good idea. Same goes for the pilot bearing, but that can be a PITA to remove (as in chisel and Dremel PITA).
My mechanic said he would help me, which the shop is right next store. I was told I need to take the (I forget the name of it) _ _ _ _ and have it resurefaced or whatever. Also I was told I need to get a new bushing? Whatever that is for.
#4
The flywheel needs to come off and be resurfaced. You can do this in your garage on jackstands in a day or two depending on how fast you can work. But considering they usually take a few hours to resurface the flywheel once you drop it off, have them cut it, and call you back, and have you go get it, your gonna need two days most likely.
I did mine in my garage with the help of one friend to get the tranny in and out. For sure use Ford OEM pilot and throw out bearings.
I did mine in my garage with the help of one friend to get the tranny in and out. For sure use Ford OEM pilot and throw out bearings.
#5
The fork and pivot ball should run you about $50. Cable under $100. As for the bushing, he's probably referring to the pilot bearing, as some cars have bushings instead. Pilot bearing is under $30, if I remember.
#7
The pilot bearing is $15 from NAPA and that's the high end of the price spectrum. It is highly unlikely that you will need a clutch fork or pivot ball unless your car has a tremendous amount of miles on it. The same thing goes for the bearing retainer on the transmission. It should be steel on that model and unless it is extremely worn, yours should be fine. The place I always take flywheels to has been charging me $30 to turn them, but thats with me bringing a couple a week at least for a business. I don't know what they charge a person off the street.
If you replace the cable, you might as well put an adjustable one with a solid quadrant on and get rid of the weak plastic factory one. But that's just my opinion.
Your friend probably has a pilot bearing/bushing tool to remove it but if not, you can pack the end of the crankshaft with grease and smack it with a hammer to pop the bearing out.
#8
I feel the same way. Especially after seeing the ad and its absence of any part numbers or pics. The king cobra, or C302N kit as listed in the FRPP catalog, is $298.95 from Summit Racing. There is also the A302N clutch kit which has 40% more holding capacity than stock for $205. This one has the same torque capacity as the king cobra kit. The C302 model just has a stronger pressure plate that's revised to give an easy pedal effort with the same disc as the A302N.
The pilot bearing is $15 from NAPA and that's the high end of the price spectrum. It is highly unlikely that you will need a clutch fork or pivot ball unless your car has a tremendous amount of miles on it. The same thing goes for the bearing retainer on the transmission. It should be steel on that model and unless it is extremely worn, yours should be fine. The place I always take flywheels to has been charging me $30 to turn them, but thats with me bringing a couple a week at least for a business. I don't know what they charge a person off the street.
If you replace the cable, you might as well put an adjustable one with a solid quadrant on and get rid of the weak plastic factory one. But that's just my opinion.
Your friend probably has a pilot bearing/bushing tool to remove it but if not, you can pack the end of the crankshaft with grease and smack it with a hammer to pop the bearing out.
The pilot bearing is $15 from NAPA and that's the high end of the price spectrum. It is highly unlikely that you will need a clutch fork or pivot ball unless your car has a tremendous amount of miles on it. The same thing goes for the bearing retainer on the transmission. It should be steel on that model and unless it is extremely worn, yours should be fine. The place I always take flywheels to has been charging me $30 to turn them, but thats with me bringing a couple a week at least for a business. I don't know what they charge a person off the street.
If you replace the cable, you might as well put an adjustable one with a solid quadrant on and get rid of the weak plastic factory one. But that's just my opinion.
Your friend probably has a pilot bearing/bushing tool to remove it but if not, you can pack the end of the crankshaft with grease and smack it with a hammer to pop the bearing out.
As for the fork/pivot ball, these parts are notorious for wearing. Mine even wore down in 10,000 miles, and I don't even race. Problem is luck, as it all depends on when Ford changes the lathe bits for the pivot ball. My last one had visible machine marks while the one I have now is almost polished. Second problem is the weight on the fork, as it forces the edges to be worn faster.
As for the retainer, doesn't matter if it's steel. Nothing kills one faster than a bad TOB. Even mine in my TR3650 should need replacing but thanks to good 'ole Ford and TREMEC, I'd rather spend the time/cash to replace bad bearings due to it than to replace the retainer. At least the T5s can just be bolted off.
#9
There must be some reason, legitimate or not, why someone would let a $262 Hays kit go for $70. I'm not saying that it's impossible to get a steal, but most eBay **** is just that: ****. Just be careful
#11
It sucks not being able to drive my car.
What about this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...Q5fAccessories
Yes, still trying to find a cheaper way then the full price. I'm on unemployment and barely making enough now. UGH
What about this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...Q5fAccessories
Yes, still trying to find a cheaper way then the full price. I'm on unemployment and barely making enough now. UGH
#13
Your car is mostly stock, just get one of those cheap stock replacement ones they sell online. Hell if he can get one for $70 you should be able to do the same. That tranny has been around forever so it should be easy to find good deals on mass produced clutches. Not like your pushing **** tons of power with stock H/C/I.
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