General Tech Forum Use this form for tech related topics that relate to all/most Mustang platforms
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Rotors Question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 03-28-2009, 04:18 PM
BikerSk8rKid's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,726
Default Rotors Question

I'm going to go buy some cheap rotors from CarQuest, but this time I'm having them turned and done right. After I get them turned I'm going to spray paint them Satin Black (thanks to Sean) and then put them on whenever I stop procrastinating on doing it.

Question: Is there anything I have to do besides turning them?

I know with brakes you have to like granny stop or something to break them in. I had new rotors, but they got wrapped and they didn't get turned, my friend just sanded them a little and then sprayed them down with some stuff.
 
  #2  
Old 03-28-2009, 04:36 PM
spike_africa's Avatar
Administrator
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Orlando,Florida
Posts: 11,974
Default

You do not turn new rotors as they are already smooth and not warped. Just get the stockers turned and then add new pads and fluid and move on.
 
  #3  
Old 03-28-2009, 05:06 PM
BikerSk8rKid's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,726
Default

Originally Posted by spike_africa
You do not turn new rotors as they are already smooth and not warped. Just get the stockers turned and then add new pads and fluid and move on.
Yeah I just read that, but if that's so. Then I don't get why my rotors got warped in the first place. Is there anything I'm supposed to do, granny stop, slow down or something? I got new brakes not to long ago or should I still replace them? What's the stockers?

I meant to say these are for the rear rotors, because mine are warped and make this freaking annoying sound.

Now another question, we were goign to get High Heat Satin Gloss Black, but how high of heat? There was only like 500 or something. Should I sand these down a little bit to get the paint to stick better?
 

Last edited by BikerSk8rKid; 03-28-2009 at 05:19 PM.
  #4  
Old 03-28-2009, 05:50 PM
Deathdiesel's Avatar
Bored...
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Texas, Gatesville
Posts: 2,500
Default

Isnt paint kinda pointless because your break pads will just rub it off? Then again i guess it depends where you paint it.
 
  #5  
Old 03-28-2009, 06:00 PM
SeanStang's Avatar
Bottle Fed V6
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 2,086
Default

Originally Posted by Deathdiesel
Isnt paint kinda pointless because your break pads will just rub it off? Then again i guess it depends where you paint it.
On the stock sized rotors yes, the pads clean off basically the whole rotor. Unless your really **** and want the hats painted I guess. If your putting on new rotors may as well throw some paint on the hats imo, so easy and doesn't take long at all.
 
  #6  
Old 03-28-2009, 06:05 PM
spike_africa's Avatar
Administrator
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Orlando,Florida
Posts: 11,974
Default

Originally Posted by Deathdiesel
Isnt paint kinda pointless because your break pads will just rub it off? Then again i guess it depends where you paint it.
You paint the parts that dont come in contact with the pads to keep them from rusting and looking like ****. Its a cheap way to make your brakes look nicer and cleaner.

Originally Posted by BikerSk8rKid
Yeah I just read that, but if that's so. Then I don't get why my rotors got warped in the first place. Is there anything I'm supposed to do, granny stop, slow down or something? I got new brakes not to long ago or should I still replace them? What's the stockers?

I meant to say these are for the rear rotors, because mine are warped and make this freaking annoying sound.

Now another question, we were goign to get High Heat Satin Gloss Black, but how high of heat? There was only like 500 or something. Should I sand these down a little bit to get the paint to stick better?
Brakes warp from being overheated and cooled rapidly its just the way things are with stock Ford rotors and how you drive. If you are on the brakes all the time hard, and holding them at lights (this is my theory) tends to make them warp faster too. Stockers of course is referring to your stock parts on you car. As for paint you can get 1200* black paint from any local auto parts store and it will do the job nicely. If you already have 500* paint I would go ahead and use it as I'm sure your not gonna get them that hot unless you autocross a lot, or drive steep mountain roads a lot.
 

Last edited by spike_africa; 03-28-2009 at 06:08 PM.
  #7  
Old 03-28-2009, 06:05 PM
Deathdiesel's Avatar
Bored...
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Texas, Gatesville
Posts: 2,500
Default

Originally Posted by SeanStang
On the stock sized rotors yes, the pads clean off basically the whole rotor. Unless your really **** and want the hats painted I guess. If your putting on new rotors may as well throw some paint on the hats imo, so easy and doesn't take long at all.
True, cant hurt.
 
  #8  
Old 03-28-2009, 07:06 PM
PColav6's Avatar
FYL.
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Posts: 7,493
Default

Originally Posted by SeanStang
On the stock sized rotors yes, the pads clean off basically the whole rotor. Unless your really **** and want the hats painted I guess. If your putting on new rotors may as well throw some paint on the hats imo, so easy and doesn't take long at all.
I probably should have done this, but I wanted something to do so I went ahead and threw them on, lol. Starting to rust already gg.
 
  #9  
Old 03-28-2009, 07:07 PM
BikerSk8rKid's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,726
Default

Originally Posted by spike_africa
Brakes warp from being overheated and cooled rapidly its just the way things are with stock Ford rotors and how you drive. If you are on the brakes all the time hard, and holding them at lights (this is my theory) tends to make them warp faster too. Stockers of course is referring to your stock parts on you car. As for paint you can get 1200* black paint from any local auto parts store and it will do the job nicely. If you already have 500* paint I would go ahead and use it as I'm sure your not gonna get them that hot unless you autocross a lot, or drive steep mountain roads a lot.
Yeah the ones I had on there are warped, that's what my mechanic guy said when he turned them and last time I posted a thread you guys said that to. How would I know if the brake pads are warped? I think I did warp them since I didn't fallow the directions on breaking them in, but I didn't know anything like that if there is directions. I didn't buy any paint yet because they didn't have it Gloss in Satin Black.

All I know is that when I'm driving window down or up you can hear some sqeaky noise badly and it's so annoying. When you're actually fully on the breaks slowing down it goes away.

Originally Posted by Deathdiesel
True, cant hurt.
I don't know what he means by a cheap way, because I didn't know there was another way. I would spend more money into my car, but I'm in the process of buying a motorcycle. I also want a newer model GT then the 1995 styles. Anyways with mine or my old ones you could see the rust so bad on the hats, my rims are powdered coated gloss black and then you see the nasty rust. ;/ It doesn't go together in my opinion.
 
  #10  
Old 03-29-2009, 08:34 AM
spike_africa's Avatar
Administrator
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Orlando,Florida
Posts: 11,974
Default

The rotors warp not the pads. Stock style pads do not need any special setup to make them work. Just toss them in, add some anti squeal compound on the back of the brake pads (found at any parts store) and you can go drive right away. If you had more serious pads then you would need to bed them in. Stock oem organic stuff no worries there.
 
  #11  
Old 03-29-2009, 11:35 AM
BikerSk8rKid's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,726
Default

Originally Posted by spike_africa
The rotors warp not the pads. Stock style pads do not need any special setup to make them work. Just toss them in, add some anti squeal compound on the back of the brake pads (found at any parts store) and you can go drive right away. If you had more serious pads then you would need to bed them in. Stock oem organic stuff no worries there.
Then my brake pads should be fine since I just got them not to long ago. I remember someone telling me that there is directions when you buy brake pads. All I remember is buying some brake pads from CarQuest, there cheapest ones and putting them in. Then someone told me I have to like granny stop on them and not be so rough.

Yeah I got the Anti-Sueal in a spray can formula.
 
  #12  
Old 03-29-2009, 02:40 PM
Deathdiesel's Avatar
Bored...
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Texas, Gatesville
Posts: 2,500
Default

Take a real hard grit sandpaper to your hats, then paint it, and yeah brake pads very rarely get warped, and i just put new pads on my car and i dont granny stop lol.
 
  #13  
Old 03-29-2009, 03:00 PM
'02SilverBullet's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 624
Default

IMO the reason you keep having this problem (other than driving habits) would be the part were you keep buying the cheap parts. I have had the EXACT same problem as you have on every vehicle I have owned. I was always broke and had to get what I could (the cheap crap) and I am VERY hard on brakes. Well after I bought my stang new. I drove on the stock stuff for a couple years. I think it was somewhere around the 40-50k mile mark I guess my rotors started warping. I drove with seriuosly bad peddal pulse and a shaky steering wheel till my taxes came in. I went and got some good rotors. I paid 210 for the front and the same for the back (420 total just with rotors) What I got were the Baer Deacalla (sp?) drilled and slotted rotors. I must admit, that has been the best damn money I have ever spent on any car. I put those on at like 70 some odd thousand miles. I am now aproaching 105k. My brakes are just as perfect now as the were when I first put em on.


So in the end I must advise you, go ahead and bite the bullet and get you some quality parts. Im not saying you got to spend 600 bucks on brakes like I did. But Im sure you can get some better stuff than they sell bottom line at local parts houses. Look at it like I did, pay a little more now and forget it, or pay a little and have to worry about it again sooner than you should have too.
 
  #14  
Old 03-29-2009, 03:04 PM
Deathdiesel's Avatar
Bored...
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Texas, Gatesville
Posts: 2,500
Default

Yea i normally buy decent brakes, not the cheapest on the market but, decent ones. I just buy duralast brand from autozone.
 
  #15  
Old 03-29-2009, 04:38 PM
BikerSk8rKid's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,726
Default

Originally Posted by '02SilverBullet
IMO the reason you keep having this problem (other than driving habits) would be the part were you keep buying the cheap parts. I have had the EXACT same problem as you have on every vehicle I have owned. I was always broke and had to get what I could (the cheap crap) and I am VERY hard on brakes. Well after I bought my stang new. I drove on the stock stuff for a couple years. I think it was somewhere around the 40-50k mile mark I guess my rotors started warping. I drove with seriuosly bad peddal pulse and a shaky steering wheel till my taxes came in. I went and got some good rotors. I paid 210 for the front and the same for the back (420 total just with rotors) What I got were the Baer Deacalla (sp?) drilled and slotted rotors. I must admit, that has been the best damn money I have ever spent on any car. I put those on at like 70 some odd thousand miles. I am now aproaching 105k. My brakes are just as perfect now as the were when I first put em on.


So in the end I must advise you, go ahead and bite the bullet and get you some quality parts. Im not saying you got to spend 600 bucks on brakes like I did. But Im sure you can get some better stuff than they sell bottom line at local parts houses. Look at it like I did, pay a little more now and forget it, or pay a little and have to worry about it again sooner than you should have too.
No I agree, but I'm not trying to spend much money on it because I'm buying a motorocycle. I'm speachless and don't know what to think. We put new brakes and new rotors on, I bought the brake pads, but I don't know what they were. My friend did it all for me and I just paid. For the rotors, I got extra rotors with the car and we put them on. It took less then a month or so and they got warped. I'm not even really hard on my brakes, rarely ever am. I mean they were perfectly fine, just I'm tired of the noise and in my opinion it makes my car look like ****.

I bought rotors from CarQuest because someone told me that AutoZone sucks and I don't wnat to spend a lot of money. :/ I don't know, I can't think right now. Thank you for your reply. Oh and there isn't anything wrong with my front rotors or brakes, I haven't even touched them once and they're fine, all stock and cheap I'm sure as well.
 
  #16  
Old 03-30-2009, 05:57 AM
bassman97's Avatar
blank
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 2,451
Default

Originally Posted by '02SilverBullet
IMO the reason you keep having this problem (other than driving habits) would be the part were you keep buying the cheap parts. I have had the EXACT same problem as you have on every vehicle I have owned. I was always broke and had to get what I could (the cheap crap) and I am VERY hard on brakes. Well after I bought my stang new. I drove on the stock stuff for a couple years. I think it was somewhere around the 40-50k mile mark I guess my rotors started warping. I drove with seriuosly bad peddal pulse and a shaky steering wheel till my taxes came in. I went and got some good rotors. I paid 210 for the front and the same for the back (420 total just with rotors) What I got were the Baer Deacalla (sp?) drilled and slotted rotors. I must admit, that has been the best damn money I have ever spent on any car. I put those on at like 70 some odd thousand miles. I am now aproaching 105k. My brakes are just as perfect now as the were when I first put em on.


So in the end I must advise you, go ahead and bite the bullet and get you some quality parts. Im not saying you got to spend 600 bucks on brakes like I did. But Im sure you can get some better stuff than they sell bottom line at local parts houses. Look at it like I did, pay a little more now and forget it, or pay a little and have to worry about it again sooner than you should have too.
Car Quest is quality parts. There aren't an Autozone or some junk store like there since unlike them, their parts are OEM or better. In fact, almost all the parts I have bought from them are the same brand as OEM.

As for the rotors, turning is for old, used rotors. Also, you can't turn warped ones since they'll warp even easier the next time. If they're warped, just buy the new rotors and install them. Your pads should be fine but if it makes you feel better, you can sand them just a little bit to have fresh pad exposed to the new rotor. As for paint, don't bother. The paint will eventually flake and cause even worse rust. Make sure you break the pads in again w/ the new rotors.
 
  #17  
Old 03-30-2009, 07:02 AM
ANDYS87's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 186
Default

Just my 2 cents:

The cheapo carquest rotors are made in china. I have 2 friends that work there, so I know all about what they sell. I buy these for my daily driver. Not bad for about $20 each for my Civic. But, mine are less than 2 years old now and I feel the pedal pulsating when I stop...so they are slightly warped already.

If you want good rotors, by raybestos or bendix. They are made in Canada, but pricey. If you don't mind changing every 2 years(or less), buy the carquest ones.

New rotors are already machined(dont need to be turned). Just spray with brake cleaner to get the anti-rust coating off and only paint the areas where the pads dont contact. You dont want to foul up new pads with paint residue(although it would probably just wear off or burn off). I'd eitherbuy caliper paint(something like 900F or higher heat 1200). 400 or 500 degree paint will just burn off quick.

If you buy new pads and rotors, you actually bed in by braking hard...not granny braking. Make a hard stop...let cool and repeat a bunch of times. Performance brake companies recommend this....the chinese might not!???
 
  #18  
Old 03-30-2009, 07:55 AM
r3dn3ck's Avatar
Wowbagger hates me too!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 9,865
Default

if you want good rotors, made in the USA for cheap then get pro-stop off ebay from TMD (The Mustang Depot, Palmyrta Dr. Riverside, CA). They're great stuff. Tried to warp mine and failed.
 
  #19  
Old 03-30-2009, 12:00 PM
bassman97's Avatar
blank
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 2,451
Default

Originally Posted by ANDYS87
Just my 2 cents:

The cheapo carquest rotors are made in china. I have 2 friends that work there, so I know all about what they sell. I buy these for my daily driver. Not bad for about $20 each for my Civic. But, mine are less than 2 years old now and I feel the pedal pulsating when I stop...so they are slightly warped already.

If you want good rotors, by raybestos or bendix. They are made in Canada, but pricey. If you don't mind changing every 2 years(or less), buy the carquest ones.

New rotors are already machined(dont need to be turned). Just spray with brake cleaner to get the anti-rust coating off and only paint the areas where the pads dont contact. You dont want to foul up new pads with paint residue(although it would probably just wear off or burn off). I'd eitherbuy caliper paint(something like 900F or higher heat 1200). 400 or 500 degree paint will just burn off quick.

If you buy new pads and rotors, you actually bed in by braking hard...not granny braking. Make a hard stop...let cool and repeat a bunch of times. Performance brake companies recommend this....the chinese might not!???
Again, that's probably because they probably used the OEM supplier for Honda, which is from China most likely. My GF has a Civic and the stock rotors already warped on us though now we have Brembos up front. However, out of all the parts I got from Car Quest, I never had one worse than OEM. For example, the idler pulley I got was the same exact one as the OEM Ford one except the bearing was made in China instead of Japan. However, considering it was the same company and the car is 6 years old, it's possible the company moved to China. As for the brakes, I was pretty sure they used Bedix or Raysebtos but again, that may depend on application since they carry many parts made by multiple companies (like the idler pulley I got, they had two different companies that made it for them). That's not to say Car Quest is the greatest but for cheap parts w/ high quality (for the price), it's either them or NAPA, since the other parts stores (Autozone, Advance, etc.) are complete garbage.
 
  #20  
Old 03-30-2009, 01:05 PM
ANDYS87's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 186
Default

Bassman,

I agree. Carquest sells some good stuff. I buy a lot there. For example, Carquest batteries are made by the same company as Diehard and others. The Carquest synthetic oil is Valvoline. They have Wix oil filters, etc.

There are different grades of brakes they sell. On some cars, you can get the good ones(probably Bendix or Raybestos), and also the cheap ones(made in China). For my honda, I get the cheap stuff. I didn't buy my Mustang rotors/pads there, so I don't know how many choices there are.

One auto store I don't buy parts at anymore is Pepboys. From a muffler that didn't fit(not even close), to a bad alternator(new), to leaking spark plug wires, a distributor that looked used, etc, etc. Had lots of bad luck with their parts......
 
  #21  
Old 03-30-2009, 02:24 PM
bassman97's Avatar
blank
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 2,451
Default

Same here, never tried them for my car as I go w/ Ford (Cobra brake kits) and Satisfied for pads. However, for the Honda, it wouldn't surprise me if that was OEM since my GF had horribly warped rotors (bad enough to scare the **** out of people when she braked on the highway), which were stock and was shot by 40,000 miles. I'm pretty sure my GF doesn't do any kind of intense braking like I do either. But alas, Biker is on a budget and the best budget parts are from them or NAPA. I just don't want people to make the mistake of going w/ stores like Autozone, who's employees tell buyers to grease their pads (entirely), or who's parts are made in China and made for price, not quality.
 
  #22  
Old 03-30-2009, 03:25 PM
r3dn3ck's Avatar
Wowbagger hates me too!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 9,865
Default

w00t to that man!
 
  #23  
Old 03-30-2009, 03:51 PM
BikerSk8rKid's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,726
Default

Well I bought some rear rotors from CarQuest last night, they were like $35 for one. The rotors that came with the car I have no clue what they were, but they still were in the plastic. It didn't take long for them to warp and I got new brake pads from CarQuest at the time as well. This was around December, maybe between that and November. But either way it didn't take long for them to start ******* up. I hate the ******* sound half to death.

Should I get new brake pads from them? Yeah my budget it is okay now, the good news is I can get the loan to get my motorcycle. See I don't want to put much into my car because I don't like it like that, well not that much. I'm not a fan of the 95 body styles, I like the 99-04 styles a lot better. So I kind of want to sell it and get a newer model. Then I'll start modding that out.
 
  #24  
Old 03-31-2009, 04:04 AM
bassman97's Avatar
blank
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 2,451
Default

Feel free to. I used their shoes w/ no problems yet. Just make sure you reuse the anti-rattle clips from the old pads (unless the new ones come w/ new ones).
 
  #25  
Old 03-31-2009, 04:56 PM
BikerSk8rKid's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,726
Default

Originally Posted by bassman97
Feel free to. I used their shoes w/ no problems yet. Just make sure you reuse the anti-rattle clips from the old pads (unless the new ones come w/ new ones).
Wait what are those? Picture? LoL because the only thing I seen was a thin metal pieace on the back of the pad, that easy doesn't stay on.
 
  #26  
Old 03-31-2009, 09:05 PM
bassman97's Avatar
blank
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 2,451
Default

Shoes are for drum brakes. Instead of having pads, drum brakes have shoes, which are like long skinny pads that pivot instead of slide.
 
  #27  
Old 04-01-2009, 05:14 PM
BikerSk8rKid's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,726
Default

Originally Posted by bassman97
Shoes are for drum brakes. Instead of having pads, drum brakes have shoes, which are like long skinny pads that pivot instead of slide.
Mine just slide in and they just sit there. I meant what's the anti-rattle clips?
 
  #28  
Old 04-01-2009, 07:43 PM
krenogin's Avatar
A pony.
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 1,782
Default

my rotors almost rip my dash out..
 
  #29  
Old 04-01-2009, 08:00 PM
bassman97's Avatar
blank
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 2,451
Default

My bad. On the pads, where they slide on the bracket, they're little metal clips that attach to the pads.
 
  #30  
Old 04-01-2009, 08:05 PM
BikerSk8rKid's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,726
Default

Originally Posted by bassman97
My bad. On the pads, where they slide on the bracket, they're little metal clips that attach to the pads.
I feel dumb and I believe I don't have them.

Picture help maybe? Also do they come with the Brakd Pads from CarQuest?

Edit: I'm guessing it's this? but I don't think, I'm sure I don't have the clips and my brake pads just like sat in it's slot.


Do they come with clips from CarQuest? Also why does that little black metal thin pieace not stay on the back of it?
 

Last edited by BikerSk8rKid; 04-01-2009 at 08:12 PM.


Quick Reply: Rotors Question



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:17 AM.