Ford Mustang Problem
Problem Fixed:
Well I just got my car back from my mechanic's, a friend of mine that works on my car and gives me a good deal. He fixed my E-Brake. They ran a test on my car to find out what was wrong with it and why the Check Engine light is always on. He said the reason why the Check Engine light is always on because I don't have catalac converters on and I don't know the rest of what he said. Now the problem with my car, he says it's my Mass Air Flow Sensor. They don't fix engines or anything, he's going to find out about it in the morning for me. I just thought I would let you all know. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Hello, Here in Oregon and Washington we had a snow storm, actually first one in Portland, Oregon in over 40 years. We rarely have snow here and yeah my first time with my car. It was under a shelter/blacktop for the two weeks we've had it, wasn't burried or anything, but wasn't fully covered. These past two or three days it's been clear enough for my car to actually get some where. My Question: I've been driving toda smf, missing my car of course. Well I've noticed that my car is back firing really bad when I use the gears/down shifting to slow down (I don't remember the name right now). It does back fire, but that's only when I run my RPMS really high, but that's just normal for my car. I also noticed that my car will start to die or try to kill it's self when idling. It will be at 1k RPM, then it will start to go down and like shake, but it doesn't always kill it's self. I've also noticed there was a bad smell, like burnt/burning smell, which I think it's the gas. I noticed that my car sounds differen't then before, I could be wrong. My car never had a problem before, it starts up fine, it drives just fine, but yeah. :/ HELP I did not prepare for winter because I didn't have time, nor having this storm hit us, and I don't know much about vechiles. I bought this car in May of this year and it does have that antifreeze stuff, but who knows how long it's been in there. I did start the car at least once every day or maybe skipped a few days. 1995 Ford Mustang 5.0 GT |
And in all of that you failed to tell us what type of stang you drive. (I read in your other thread that you drive a 95 5.0)
Check the big three, spark, air and fuel. It is not hard on your car to check the plugs, they are easy enough to get to. The strange smell can be a few things, possibly antifreeze burning, but again, you would have to know what that smells like. Do yourself a favor and pick up a Hayne's manual for your pony. |
Originally Posted by Ghostalker
(Post 373268)
And in all of that you failed to tell us what type of stang you drive. (I read in your other thread that you drive a 95 5.0)
Check the big three, spark, air and fuel. It is not hard on your car to check the plugs, they are easy enough to get to. The strange smell can be a few things, possibly antifreeze burning, but again, you would have to know what that smells like. Do yourself a favor and pick up a Hayne's manual for your pony. My friend said "could have a small glitch in the programming". Other friend said to get this stuff: Duralast / Distributor Cap And Rotor Kit 11.99 - F976 Bosch-Platinum Plus / Spark Plug 2.99 each - 4009 Bosch / Wireset 36.99 - 09729 That's stuff from AutoZone. I need a Mustang buddy, haha. |
Pony - haha I get it.
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dont bother with those fancy platinum 4 prong plugs or whatever the new style is. Just stick to a nice cheap copper plug that is the same temperature rating that comes factory for your motor.
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Originally Posted by mustangvsix
(Post 373301)
dont bother with those fancy platinum 4 prong plugs or whatever the new style is. Just stick to a nice cheap copper plug that is the same temperature rating that comes factory for your motor.
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I just got done trying it. The smell is like something is burning, you can smell inside and outside the car, but not really really bad. Then I noticed the car dying as well. When I'm stopped, I have th clutch pushed in, in gear. Then I noticed the car will start to go below 1k RPM and starts dying, like trying to kill it's self unless I push on the gas a little bit.
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Don't buy that crap. Go get the Motorcraft replacement parts for the ignition or a good reputable brand (such as MSD). For plugs, you don't need anything more than Copper but if you don't want to replace them often, stick w/ regular Platinums/double Platinums. Reputable brands include Motorcraft/Autolite, Champion, NGK, and Denso, all of which should be available at any parts store. The Bosch plugs are a waste of cash. If they really did have a benefit, you would see racers using it. About the most exotic racers get are grooved electrodes and cut back grounds. However, my money is on the ignition. How are the plug wires looking? Are they falling apart? How many miles you got?
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Originally Posted by bassman97
(Post 373337)
Don't buy that crap. Go get the Motorcraft replacement parts for the ignition or a good reputable brand (such as MSD). For plugs, you don't need anything more than Copper but if you don't want to replace them often, stick w/ regular Platinums/double Platinums. Reputable brands include Motorcraft/Autolite, Champion, NGK, and Denso, all of which should be available at any parts store. The Bosch plugs are a waste of cash. If they really did have a benefit, you would see racers using it. About the most exotic racers get are grooved electrodes and cut back grounds. However, my money is on the ignition. How are the plug wires looking? Are they falling apart? How many miles you got?
What do you think it is? My car starts up fine, not a single problem with it. |
I just remembered the other day when I was warming it up it was making a weird sound in the rear. Also doesn't sound normal or like it used too.
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I updated my first post, if you can please read it. Thank you guys a lot!
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Originally Posted by BikerSk8rKid
(Post 373362)
I don't really know, I can't tell, and I don't know anything about cars, well that stuff. I just know how to check the oil, add oil, where the gas thruttle is on the egnine, and that's it. Well I know how to change the rims and yeah, haha. The car was fine until after this stupid storm hit. It was under 100k miles, never had a problem with it before besides the ac is going out.
What do you think it is? My car starts up fine, not a single problem with it. |
Originally Posted by bassman97
(Post 373620)
Yes but I'm sure you can look at plug wires and see if they look like crap. Also, if the engine has miles, it may be time for a tune-up. Now, not having cats won't do anything since OBD-I uses only 1 set of O2 sensors, so not having cats won't trip the comp. Plus, the crappy weather wouldn't just make the MAF screwy. This to me more so leads to an electrical problem since the humidity is seeping into places where it shouldn't and cause shortages.
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I can pretty much promise you that it is the mass air flow sensor. My stang is doing the same thing. It will stall while idling if you are not in the car to give it some gas. It also acts worse when it is cold outside or if the humidity is high.
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sounds likely... try cleaning the sensor element. Search if you need the procedure.
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Originally Posted by 10507158
(Post 373644)
I can pretty much promise you that it is the mass air flow sensor. My stang is doing the same thing. It will stall while idling if you are not in the car to give it some gas. It also acts worse when it is cold outside or if the humidity is high.
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Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
(Post 373656)
sounds likely... try cleaning the sensor element. Search if you need the procedure.
http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId...leSelected.htm |
Before you go and toss money at something that might not even be broken I would go ahead and clean it instead of buying a new one. You can get electrical contact cleaner or even i think they sell a product now for cleaning the MAF, but the electronic contact cleaner is great for this. Just take the MAF out of the stock air filter housing (DO NOT TOUCH THE WIRES INSIDE THE MAF WITH ANYTHING!!!!!) and just spray the inside of the MAF. You will see there is a part that hangs down with some very small metal wire in it just spray the crap out of it front and back and let it dry then reinstall the MAF.
Again do not touch the inside of the MAF as you can damage the wires inside and screw it up. |
I'm on my Cell Phone. Can anyone show me what exactly I'll spray? I don't want to mess up. How long will it take to dry? What kind of Formula should I get exactly? I live by CarQuest and AutoZone (97206) and they're dumb or don't care.
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Read my post it says it all.
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Originally Posted by spike_africa
(Post 373703)
Read my post it says it all.
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Once you pull the MAF out of the stock airbox you will see what I am talking about its the only thing inside the MAF sticking out. The MAF looks just like the one you posted in the link before hand so that is what the MAF looks like.
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Are you on, I need help. :/
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Just post and someone will help whoever see's it first. No need to ask if people are on just post and someone will help ya I promise.
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Originally Posted by spike_africa
(Post 373795)
Just post and someone will help whoever see's it first. No need to ask if people are on just post and someone will help ya I promise.
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I have the whole intake next to me, well half of it. Inside the big part where the Screen is to catch the stuff. I took out that whole thing. If you look in the rubber tubing you can see a little thing sticking through. It's like a U with a little tiny thing in the middle of it. Is that it?
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Yes, it has little metal wires that get dirty and can cause the motor to run badly like you have. Just spray that thing down with electrical contact cleaner (NO Brake CLEANER!!)
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Originally Posted by spike_africa
(Post 373804)
Yes, it has little metal wires that get dirty and can cause the motor to run badly like you have. Just spray that thing down with electrical contact cleaner (NO Brake CLEANER!!)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...2656107653.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...2656170501.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...2656216581.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...2656277765.jpg Sorry I'm hard to work with, this thing is just confusing me. |
I'm guessing that I just spray the last picture the flta form/metal part and the wires on the black thing. I don't know if I should clean the intake where the rest of it is. My friend said mine is complicated, because most just hang, there is no air system/tubbing it has to go through.
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yes the little wires are the things that need to be cleaned and should not be touched.
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Originally Posted by spike_africa
(Post 373835)
yes the little wires are the things that need to be cleaned and should not be touched.
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They have a brand new one for $138.00 that I can get tomarrow. I hope it works.
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I hope I also tried to clean this right. :/
What is this, that's in the rubber tubing. The one that guy takes out when he shows you how to put in the Cold Air Intake. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...2686998533.jpg |
That's the intake air temperature sensor. I am not a fan of just replacing parts if I don't know for sure that's the problem.
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Originally Posted by spike_africa
(Post 373876)
That's the intake air temperature sensor. I am not a fan of just replacing parts if I don't know for sure that's the problem.
AutZone has one for $80, rebuilt and $203 brand new. CarQuest/Thrifty Auto Supply is $138 rebuilt. What the heck. :/ |
What else could it be?
I mean the cleaning helped it a little bit, but it still trys to dye, not constalty though. |
Originally Posted by BikerSk8rKid
(Post 373633)
I'm pretty sure it's time for a tune up, which is what I want to do. For my first time and I can learn my self. But I need help getting performanced stuff and I don't know everything to get. That's why I was trying to figure out in my other thread. Is it possible that it's the Mass Air Flow Censor that got messed up and is messing my car up? He ran those comptuer test on my car. Check Engine light is because of not having my cats on. Then the other problem with my car is because of the Mass Air Flow Sensor. I don't even know how to tell if they're bad wires or plugs. Yeah it has under 100k miles.
As for the MAF, they almost always do not go bad. They may get dirty but the environment they operate in won't really kill them. And since the time is right for a tune-up, it's time to replace the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires on the ignition. Tune-up kits that include all of these should be easy to find. Remember though, make sure when you replace the cap, rotors, and wires, you know where the rotor is pointing and the firing order on the cap. A diagram that shows you this for when the #1 cylinder is at TDC should be easily found online (and is in any manual such as Haynes or Chilton). |
Originally Posted by bassman97
(Post 373899)
And the guy that ran your test is an idiot. OBD-I doesn't tell you anything if your cats are bad or missing. That's why we have OBD-II and that's why for OBD-II cars, either the rear sensors need to be turned off or resistors placed inline. Not having cats will not throw a code for OBD-I. Instead, google the code and you should be able to find out what the code is really for.
As for the MAF, they almost always do not go bad. They may get dirty but the environment they operate in won't really kill them. And since the time is right for a tune-up, it's time to replace the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires on the ignition. Tune-up kits that include all of these should be easy to find. Remember though, make sure when you replace the cap, rotors, and wires, you know where the rotor is pointing and the firing order on the cap. A diagram that shows you this for when the #1 cylinder is at TDC should be easily found online (and is in any manual such as Haynes or Chilton). Yeah when I took it apart it looked new/good. When I sprayed it with the Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner it kind of helped, but not really. It happened after this Snow Blizzard we had, I started to drive it when the roads were clear and that's when I noticed it. I did a California trip (17 hours I think) a few months back and then another to Venta (spell check) that's about 2 and half or so. I've had this car since around May and I've never done a tune up, oil change, or anything. Just using premium (spell check) and 10 - 40w Royale Purple Oil. Where would I go to get the ignition wires? What kind of ignition do I have? Spike posted a link to go get a tune up kit in my other thread. What do you think the problem is? The guy I took it too is a friend, well kind of. My landlord owns my property, the bar, and the car place all on the same property. So he told me to go there, since they work on his old school nice car. But they don't do Engine work, that's not there business, I think it's just brakes and what not, so I don't know, but they had a test machine. |
I found a cheaper Mass Air Flow Sensor at Schuks for like $83 that I might get. I'm going to wait to hear from you guys to see if I should do it or if that's the problem, because I'm confused now. all the new Mass Air Flow Sensors are the same price, any where I go. HELP!
I should just do a tune up first and see if that's the problem huh? |
http://www.thefordsource.com/store/m...lectronics.htm
Includes-9mm wires, cap, rotor, plugs, pcv, fuel filter I'm going to get a Air Filter as well. I wish I didn't have to order it so I don't have to wait. This problem is killing my car, my gas is burning a lot faster, and whatever else. |
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